I took off somewhat later today. The hotel in Jokkmokk was nice and I had no reason to hurry. It was mostly wilderness ahead, 200 km of it on the Inlandsvagen. Or so I thought.

The hotel staff sent me off with a happy 'hej hej hej'. Which was more than I could ask for, because usually the Swedes have been less than forthcoming in regards to casual conversation. Communication seems to be strictly prohibited, especially with - dare I say it - strangers. I have offered about two dozen goodmorning's and goodday's now that haven't been returned. I won't give up though. You've got to stay polite.

Back on the road, I made my way to Gallivare. The Inlandsvagen didn't really have anything special to show on that stretch, but still the Lapponian landscape is mesmerizing. Those endless treescapes and mountains. I felt some trepidation though as well, because it was getting noticeably colder. We were down to 6C. You can feel the winter coming in. The clouds looked particularly ominous, like those that you get just before snowfall. But the forecasts are perennially positive that snow won't be coming in until the second half of September. Let's hope so.

When I reached Gallivare, the clouds had taken on a more healthy colour. Which was just as well, as I had a job to do. Remember the cracked windscreen? Well, I had a replacement sent ahead to Gallivare, to pick up at the local post office. The post office turned out to be a tiny counter in a huge COOP supermarket. So I ended up replacing the windshield in the supermarkter carpark. That proved a bit of a challenge, fitting all the nuts and bolts in while cars were swinging in and out of the parking lots around me. One car actually came close to hitting me, while I was busy sorting the toolcase. I asked the driver if he had seen me, and he simply replied 'yes, but I did not hit you'. Well, good to know.

With the new windshield fitted, I rode on to Kiruna province. It's mining country here, mainly iron ore. Along the road (which ultimately leads to Narvik, the Norwegian port where the iron ore is shipped) there are several huge mining installations. They are very well guarded by walls and fences, so you don't get to see much. Other 'highlights' are power stations and dams. It didn't appeal to me much, but the Swedisch and Finnish tourists seem to like them.

The Sami have a story about the first human. In the beginning there were the God-Father and the God-Mother. They were allegiant to the Sun, that had created the world. The God-Father decided one day that he wanted to create as well, and so he created the Soul. Then he brought the Soul to the Sun, and he drove the Soul through the sunbeams. And so the Soul was brought to shine. Then the God-Father gave the Soul to the God-Mother, and she blew life into the Soul. After that, the God-Mother fashioned a Body for the Soul to live in. And finally the first human was born. And the God-Father and the God-Mother put this child in nature, to truly learn to live.
I don't know why, but that was on my mind riding to Kiruna.

I arrived at my camping place late in the afternoon. Camp Alta near Kiruna is basically a winter camp, where you can can ride a dogsled through the snow and such. They'd opened up already for the season and I was able to stay in one of their Sami-styled huts, based on the design of the lavvu, the tent that the nomadic Sami tribes use. It turned out to be the best accomodation I've had, nice, warm and very comfortable. They have a piece of wool cloth hanging from the door, keeping the cold out. Works a charm.

Camp Alta is situated next to a beautiful lake, and I made the most of sitting there and just enjoying the view. The stars are huge here. No northern lights yet though. But I hope to catch them in the next few days, when I'm heading up to Narvik and Tromso.