As per usual I got up this morning and went looking for some black coffee. The good ship Finnstar, which takes me from Helsinki to Germany, doesn't do breakfast, they serve you a 'brunch' at 1 pm. Luckily the bar is open most of the day (good to see they've gotten their priorities straight), so I got my coffee. And a cinnamon roll as well. And a nice view over the Baltic Sea.

Let's call that compensation for letting me standing out in the rain for 3 hours yesterday. They didn't open the cargo bay doors until the very last moment. I've seen some bad weather on this trip, but right at that time the heavens decided to open above me as never before. I was glad to have my all-weather motorcycle suit on. Others weren't so lucky though.

Finally they let us board. And now I've 38 hours of sailing to do to Travemunde, Germany. To be fair, the Finnstar has everything you would want from a ferry. The Baltic Sea is shining like silver and the weather's lovely. So I am having a comfortable ride home.

I've been biding my time thinking about the last four weeks. They certainly were memorable; I can honestly say it has been the best trip of my life. That has mainly been up to the magical land in the high north that I've been travelling to. It's stunningly beautiful in a rugged kind of way. And the connection between the land and the people is strong; it has to be because of those rugged conditions. I never knew of it before, but it suited me fine. I'd like to return some day.

A journey beyond what you know is also a journey into oneself, Seneca said. What have I learned, if anything? Well, I love travelling like this, just riding to the world's end with a motorcycle. And it wasn't as exhausting or difficult as you'd expect. I think I'll do it more often.
Also: it's as much the people you meet and the stories they tell, as the places you visit. The whole thing's reminded me that I'm a sucker for a good story, be it personal or historical.
And: I don't know if it was the bike or the trip or something else, but I was surprised by all the positive reactions and responses that I've received. From the people that I've met on the road and who have, more than once, helped me out when I was in a tough spot. But also from people back home and even online. Thank you all, from the bottom of my heart.

I'd especially like to single out my wife Monica. She's been supportive of this trip from the very beginning, even when it all seemed a bit mad and farfetched. Or when it started to go off the rails (I broke my foot preparing my off road 'skills'). She persisted and shone through it all and what's more, she valiantly took care of Ava during my long absence. In a fantastic way. I truly love and admire you, my love.

Also my love to Ava, Rosa and Aaron, who stuck it out while daddy was frolicking through the Scandinavian tundra and taiga. And many, many thanks to Marc, who has been a great moral and practical support from the beginning to the end.

It's crystal clear: a journey like this isn't made without the help and support of some good people. And maybe that's the biggest lesson of all.

The Finnstar is waking up and some of the Finnish are already on their first beer. I'm not going to join them right now (I like my coffee better), but metaforically I'll raise a glass to all the lands I've visited, to my wonderful motorcycle and last but least, to all the wonderful people I've met and who've supported me. Skol and good health to all. It's been a joy.

Oh, there's one last lesson that I definitely shouldn't forget: I sure like those cinnamon buns. Note to self: start an import business in kanelbulli. Now, where's the phone number of the bakery in Jokkmokk ....