A quick update on mattresses in Vietnam! A number of articles I read about Vietnam mentioned that mattresses were generally extremely hard - like sleeping on a plank, or straight on the floor, some said. I wondered whether it was perhaps some sinister plan from the government to curb population growth!! Not so - 3 out of my 4 nights here so far, have been on a hard mattress. I did bring a  blow-up mattress and pump with me, but haven't used it yet - as I quite like the hard version!

I left Da Lat early morning, on a perfect sunny and cool day heading for the coast. One of those days on a motorcycle where you just shout out: this is the life! The Honda and I were both ready for the 100 kilometer stretch over the Ngoan Muc Pass to the coastal town of Phan Rang, which has been described as a "world class" route. I have to say that it was 100 km of pure enjoyment. The type of road where you say at the end - why don't I just turn around and do it all over again? The road surface was great, and at 1900m the temperature cool, dozens of curves and switchbacks, little traffic, and lush green forest much of the way.

After 3 hours I got my first glimpse of the South China Sea. The temperature now 30+. I decided to spend a night in this coastal resort. Although it was only around 11.00 I booked a room, so I could drop my luggage there, and take a drive south along the coast on a route I had read about. It is often referred to as the "Dragon's Graveyard Coast Road". It is a rugged, sandy and boulder-strewn area for about 50 km, interspersed by a couple of windmill- and solar cell parks. The landscape is desert-like, arid but striking with windswept sand dunes, cacti and wild beeches. There are also large areas along the way where salt is produced, as well as many fish-breeding farms.

Rumor has it that this area is where dragons came to die and the earth scorched itself in grief! At the fishing village of Cà Ná I turned around and drove the 50km back to my hotel. I had decided to "splash out" $13 for the night, and get myself a room with a sea view. One up from the usual $ 8-10 I have been paying for accommodation so far!

In the evening I took a walk along the beachfront looking for somewhere to eat. I found a place that looked interesting, but also noticed a few piles of rubbish laying right next to the restaurant. As I was about to enter and check their menu, a couple of rats scurried around in the piles.

I went to bed hungry tonight!

In the morning I will continue north along the coast.