The past few days - from a biker's point of view - have been pure bliss. We were heading for the Ha Giang loop, but before that we wanted to visit the cave Ho Chi Minh spent almost 2 months at in 1941, called the Pac Bo cave. It is situated amongst forested limestone mountains, blue rivers and green rice paddies, probably unchanged since 1941 when Ho Chi Minh walked across the border from China and set foot in his native Vietnam for the first time in 30 years. Ho had left Vietnam in 1901 on a French ship from Saigon, and settled in Paris with a friend. During that time he made many powerful friends (and enemies) in socialist and communist areas in Europe, the USSR and China. Four years after his clandestine return from China, Vietnam could celebrate independence from French rule and Japanese occupation.

Both Sebastian and I enjoyed our visit to the cave and the lake area, and spent a couple of hours there before continuing towards our homestay in Bao Lac. Arriving at Sunny Hostel around six in the evening, we were received by a tiny Vietnamese lady "Sunny", who spoke good English. She also turned out to be a great cook, and we enjoyed some delicious fried rice.

In the morning, after fruit and pancakes, we pointed our bikes towards Meo Vac. For me it was great having Sebastian along. He is an IT software specialist with a German bank, and loves everything "computer" - including Google maps! He excels in finding the smallest off-road tracks we can take. They often lead to dead-ends, stopping at a tiny village, a farm or a school. We then enjoy the ride back to the main track again. Yesterday we came belting down a newly made concrete track - Sebastian in front - when he came to an abrupt stop, parked about 15 meters into newly laid and completely soft and wet concrete. The road workers looked at him curiously, and motioned for him to get back to the dry part. I had managed to stop just in time, and went to help him reverse the bike back out of the quack mire. The workers got themselves a good laugh, and immediately started repairing the unwanted bike tracks.

We had seen a small lake on the map, with the wording "bamboo ferry" and found the most awesome single track taking us to the lakeside, and a small bamboo craft to take us to the other side. We drove the bikes onboard - water clearly visible between the bottom slats - and the captain started pulling us across the lake with the help of a rope that had been strung across the lake. Apart from Sebastian and I and the two bikes, the captain's wife was there, busy doing the laundry in the lake as we sailed along. After the crossing we continued along challenging gravel tracks in beautiful surroundings.

We ended the day with a boat ride on the lake at Meo Vac. A bit touristy after our bamboo boat ride, but we met a Greek couple riding two up on a bike. Interestingly, they lived and worked in Copenhagen, Denmark - he at Bang and Olufsen and she at Pandora. A lovely - and adventurous couple.

Our digs for the night at Meo Vac was Plumb Homestay.