With new rubber and chain the bike feels wonderful. Being a big single it still ain't smooth, but at least there's less snatch going on. Paradoxically it's highlighted a whine in third gear. This caused some anxiety as some DRs have been known to have third gear explode, wrecking the motor. The internet assured me "yeah, nah mate, they all whine like that". No worries then, I'll just turn the radio up.

Pipe Spring National Monument was an interesting place. It's the site of a Mormon settlement, a building constructed over a natural spring coming out of a hillside. The ranger was knowledgeable and the museum educational, especially about the relationships between Mormons and native Americans. There were similarities with indigenous Australian history, plus many differences.  

You might have heard of this Grand Canyon place. Folk urged visiting the North instead of South Rim - fewer people and a better view. Off I went. 

Boy, I'm naive sometimes. I imagined hiking down from the rim to the Colorado River and back up again as a day hike. After all, I'd seen other canyons on the same river and they were only so tall, how long could it possibly take? A fair while, it turns out.

A sign estimated the return trip to be 3-4 days. Ok, these estimates are always conservative and my hiking pace is usually fairly strong, but even so after 2.5 hours descending I was maybe 25% of the way there and couldn't even see the river. Oncoming hikers, having started from the south rim, were universally shattered. The healthiest looking walker had started at midnight; we met at noon.

After seeing Bryce Canyon (more rocks, in big columns, reds/oranges/white), it was time to leave Utah. Nevada delighted with it's "big sky" landscape. Long valleys full of shrubs no higher than one's shin, nestled between low hills.

There was just a little "sameness" about each mile as the wheels kept turning. I fell asleep, waking up on the wrong side of the road and realising I'd been dreaming. Scary. Just as well it was about ten minutes between vehicles.

Nevada has the "extraterrestrial highway" that goes past Area 51. No little green men showed themselves, but maybe they were only searching for intelligent life.

Last night I camped near Yosemite NP. The scenery is gob smacking. So beautiful, I choked up.

Can't wait to stay in Yosemite itself tomorrow. It seems to have so much on offer.

Today's ride across the Sonora Pass, 9624ft, was possibly the best piece of tarmac I've ever ridden, outside of a racetrack. Constantly sinuous, perfect surface, no guard rails and all between eyeball dazzling vistas of snow covered mountainside. Hilarious passing civilians in a Mustang, gaggle of Harleys, et cetera, around the outside over double yellow lines. I'd have given my left leg to have been in GAVS7, but all the same cranking over the old Bush Pig was ridiculous fun. Sorry, no photos of the best looking parts, was too busy.

Some personal reflections:

 • There's pleasure in simplicity

   Each little item has it's place in the cargo; every day has regular routines.

   Things boil down to the essentials: fuel, distance, food and water, sleep et cetera.

• Overnight stays vary

   About 10pm one night a mob of local kids rocked up in their "trucks" (big arse utes) for a campfire party, right next to my remote tent site. I moved on. 

  Campsites offered by the national forest service ($small) are excellent. 

  Free/wild camping on BLM (Bureau of Land Management, i.e. public land) is plentiful. 

  One stop was so far from any other human, the wind was the only sound and I could walk around starkers.

• There are signs civilisation is finally starting to reach the USA

  A delicious latte just up the road from the Grand Canyon 

• We live in an amazing time

   I've chatted with home most days, even from remote spots.

   Seeing my family's faces, our garden and dogs while across the planet is brilliant.

   The washing machine is busted and Sammy's hind leg is sore, but grandad has given us a new garden swing seat and they're all still smiling. 

Life is good.