Bhutan I

Nations typically measure their success in gross national product. Bhutan is different. They measure their success in gross national happiness. I have no idea how they quantify happiness, but hey, when knowing the suicide rate among the rich you’ll have to admit that the Bhutanese ideal is inspiring. I had no doubt that I would feel happier in Bhutan (because India sucks). But it is well known that the Bhutanese are very protective of their secluded way of life, and that they limit the numbers of visitors to avoid too much outside influence. But let’s say that I managed to be one of the few, how likely would they allow me to ramble around in their precious kingdom on my motorcycle?Nations typically measure their success in gross national product. Bhutan is different. They measure their success in gross national happiness. I have no idea how they quantify happiness, but hey, when knowing the suicide rate among the rich you’ll have to admit that the Bhutanese ideal is inspiring. I had no doubt that I would feel happier in Bhutan (because India sucks). But it is well known that the Bhutanese are very protective of their secluded way of life, and that they limit the numbers of visitors to avoid too much outside influence. But let’s say that I managed to be one of the few, how likely would they allow me to ramble around in their precious kingdom on my motorcycle?bhuflag.jpg
The first moment of silence since Bear Island

Some guidebooks tell you to forget it. Other sources say it can be done, but you must enter or exit the country by air. Another common report is that you’ll have to join an organized group, or pay for a guide that will escort you wherever you go. Forget all this. What you need is an insider who knows his way in the domestic bureaucracy. You also need his friends at the border, an emission test document, a fax machine, and to make a money transfer to a Wall Street bank account. The showdown was at Phuentsholing, the only land border open to foreigners. After twenty-four hours I was five kilometers up the road, flashing my newly obtained Bhutanese driving permit and given a go-ahead at the final frontier. I was in. No escort attached.

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Who wants to be in a hurry when the scenery is like this?

Bhutan got its first automobile in 1962. Yes, it is a sorry place for veteran car enthusiasts. On the other hand, you often find yourself being king of the road because nobody else is on it. An estimated 80% of the population live more than an hour walk from the nearest motorable path (60% of these more than a day away). Obviously they have other priorities than being in front of you. But think again if you are planning to travel fast. The only main road is at best 3,5 meters wide and winds through a scenery so majestic that you should not miss the marvels by oozing by. So the modest average speed is in fact a wonderful advantage.

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I'd might as well change oil on a UFO

The reception in the capital Thimphu was out of the ordinary. Apparently it was a rare event being visited by a lone biker from the Arctic. The national newspaper Kuensel welcomed the first ever Norwegian vehicle in the country, and Bhutan television made it a prime time story. Every day I had to shake a hundred hands. People wanted to know about my journey, and there were many faces of disbelief when I replied that I had driven through 29 countries to get there. They pictured many months of hardship and solitude, and it didn’t make any sense that I’d gone through all that without any so-called message to the world.

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BBS television: Any advice for the young people in Bhutan? Yes, buy a motorcycle and visit us in the Arctic