June 14th – The shipping company operative has now decided that the fuel tanks should have been emptied, and that it’s too difficult for him to empty them, and would we like to post the keys, or return to UB to do it ourselves! What an idiot this guy is -we sent him a youtube video of how to siphon fluids. Decided to go to Cambodia for a couple of days, since the bikes seem to be going nowhere still.

June 16th – Up at 02:30 to get to the Cambodian border. We booked a tour with the Tourist Office in Bangkok, thinking that was the reputable way to do it, but seem to have ended up with a one-man band handing us over to another one-man band. There was no itinerary, and we have no idea of what time anything is supposed to happen – all it says is that we’ve booked a tour with transport to and from our hostel. We had a reckless minibus driver most of the way, who passed us onto a car and 2 English-speaking female guides to take us the last 5 km to the border, and pre-arrange our visa. Then once we were through the border, the ladies passed us to another bloke, onto a decrepit coach for a 10-minute drive to a “Tourist Car Park”. Then we had a 1-hour wait for another couple of people to turn up so that we could use a shared taxi (or pay double the fee!). Then a 2-hour journey to Siem Reap, to a surprisingly posh hotel. The countryside is fairly flat with little to see, and this is probably the poorest country we’ve come through so far. The people seem to own very little, and are mainly rice-farmers who just subsist.
June 17th – Up early (both too excited to sleep!) and are introduced to Mr Phal, our English-speaking guide for the day. We are taken to Angkor Thom, The Terrace of the Elephants, Baphuon, Ta Phroem, and then the jewel in the crown – Angkor Wat.

Caption 1: Angkor Thom (Tomb Raider territory), Cambodia

Caption 2: Ta Phroem with tree, Cambodia

Another absolutely incredible sight – it covers such a wide area, and is just amazingly beautiful. Apparently some of “Tomb Raider” was filmed here, but it’s a very peaceful place, and the guide is very enthusiastic and knowledgeable.

Caption 3: Classic Angkor Wat, Cambodia

We also were invited to watch some Cambodian traditional dancing in the evening, which was very elegant and apparently told a story, even though we didn’t have a clue what was going on.

Also got an email from shipping company – the bikes left Mongolia yesterday allegedly!

June 18th – another interesting journey, back to Thailand. First a minibus into Siem Reap, then a coach to the border. There was supposed to be someone to meet us to help us through the border procedure, but no-one appeared. Just as well I had the presence of mind to pick up one of their brochures while we were sat waiting to be told what to do 2 days ago. We called the lady, and she said she’d be there in a minute. An hour later she turned up, and then palmed us off onto another cramped minibus which happened to be going somewhere in Bangkok. There may have been room for 2 people, but not room for 2 people with 2 rucksacks! But if you can’t argue in their language, they don’t want to know, and play dumb. So eventually we got dropped near Bangkok main train station, and told to get a taxi back to the hotel. We were just so relieved to get back to Bangkok, that at the time we didn’t notice that our 30-day visa for Thailand has been converted to a 15-day visa now.

June 21st – Got a taxi out to Bangkok Airport early, expecting to spend all day doing paperwork, or sitting around doing nothing waiting for other people to pull their fingers out. In the end, we did 10 minutes of paperwork, and then had to wait for Customs to have lunch. But then they released the crates at around 14:30. We hadn’t expected we would have to put them back together again, and drive them back to Bangkok today – we’re in a hostel right in the middle of the busy market/gay area, with nowhere to park them, no maps of how to get back to the right area, and no real idea of how to get the 30km back to Bangkok without using the Expressway (which motorbikes are not allowed on!).

Another stressful couple of hours ensued – the local shipping company said we could unpack the crates in an area of their warehouse, but no-one seemed to own a screwdriver so that we could get the lids off. Fortunately I had my trusty Swiss-army knife with me (daughter of a sapper in the T.A., you know!), so made a start while they scoured Bangkok cargo area for a proper flat-blade screwdriver or a jemmy.

But Bob did a sterling job in putting the bikes back together, in very difficult circumstances, and with a constant audience of layabout FLT drivers. But he hadn’t wanted to put them together “under fire”, in case he missed something crucial and was desperate not to have to ride them away today.

Caption 4: Getting bikes uncrated at Bangkok airport

We then also realized that they’d completely emptied Bob’s Yam of fuel, whilst my Beemer still had ¾ of a tank and hadn’t been touched. So we arranged to get them put on the back of a Hi-lux or in a small van, and get them delivered to the hostel, with us as well. Fortunately, the owner of the hostel was very helpful, and found an area for us to put all our kit, and chain the bikes up.

It’s just such a relief to get the bikes back – and without too much damage. Although our wallets have taken yet another beating. The Thai’s also want money for everything! We’ve even been charged for storage, even though they didn’t tell us the bikes were in Thailand - they don’t work the weekend and so we couldn’t go and get them the day that we were notified.

June 22nd – took a day to go through all our kit and check the bikes over properly. And fix some of the minor mechanical and electrical problems that we’d had. Had to get a lift to a petrol station, to get fuel for Yam. Bob went on the back of a bike-taxi, and managed to crash on that! Even as a passenger he's not safe. Got engine started but sounded really rough.

June 23rd – set off, out of Bangkok, with Yam sounding like a bag of spanners, and not pulling or revving anything like it should. Beemer is no problem, as one would expect.

June 24th – Set off from Hua Hin to continue south, but only got as far as the main road, about a kilometer, before the Yam died. The owner of the shop we pulled up outside was really helpful, and spoke excellent English. She told us where the nearest Yam dealer was, and where another bike repair shop was to go and get it repaired. But obviously if Bob can’t fix it himself (or at least diagnose the problem), it’s unlikely that a local mechanic, who’s only used to dealing with bikes/mopeds less than 250cc would be able to help. And so it proved.

But in conversation with a passing bike-taxi driver, he mentioned about the types of fuel. And apparently what Bob put in the tank the day before yesterday, unwittingly, was what the guy called gasohol and not petrol. So we ditched the tank of fuel (into the tanks of any passing bike-taxis), and filled up with some proper stuff. This seemed to help, but the Yam still wouldn’t rev properly. But at least we could limp on, at 50mph, and get to our next hostel.

So we got to the Chumphon Palm Resort, a diving centre, on the east coast. The English guy (Nigel) who manages the place explained about fuel types, and said we’d put in ethanol, and the filters probably needed cleaning/changing. Fortunately there was another ex-pat close by who was a big-bike mechanic and he assisted Bob in cleaning out the filter. So the Yam started first time. Big relief all round – wasn’t looking forward to trying to get spares for a bike they’ve never even heard of!

June 27th – had a few days “holiday” at the Resort. Nigel and his smashing family and brilliant bartender and cook, M, ensured that we relaxed good and proper. The last few weeks had taken their toll on us. We now have the next shipping to try and sort out – on to Australia.

Caption 5: Plis, M, Bam, Nigel at Chumphon Palm Resort

June 28th – left Chumphon for next stop at Si Chon. Got to just 6km outside the place, and the Yam died again – just after we’d filled up at garage. Naturally we assumed we’d put the wrong fuel in again, but just as were about to take the tank off, it fired into life. The resort was well past its sell-by date, but the bungalow we were given was about 20 metres from the beach. And there was a resort dog (labrador Deng) to play with, so Sheila was happy as we were the only guests for Deng to talk to. Although the staff had to give us a crash-course in Thai words for “lie down” and “no”, so that Deng could understand us.

Caption 6: Deng at Haad Piti Resort, Thailand

Bob had another look at the Yam, and we realized the problem was the fuel pipe was becoming kinked, and starving the engine! How easy was that to sort out. Another big relief all round.

July 1st – another day, another country. This time Malaysia. Hardly any border procedures of note – we were done and dusted in 20 minutes. They didn’t seem to care about the bikes, and just nodded us through. We had the mother of all storms though as soon as we got into the country. And of course we’d just decided to take out the Goretex liners from our riding kit three days ago. So we were both sopping wet. It stopped for about 10 minutes, just as we found the hostel on Penang, and then hammered down again.

The upside is that we’re back into Cadbury’s country so Bob’s happy.

July 2nd – not a good night – the rain kept us awake, as did the creaky ceiling fan. And then the mosque next door sprang into life at stupid o’clock. Fortunately we needed to get going early, but putting moist clothes on was a harrowing experience. We put the Goretex liners back in, so naturally it didn’t rain at all.

Caption 7: On the way to Petaling Jaya, Malaysia

July 3rd – good run on good roads to Johor Bahru, near Singapore. Hostel is pretty good, and has a washing-machine, so managed to wash the road smell out of our clothes. And got some shampoo to wash the bikes. We’re still carrying Mongolian sand in places. Emailed some bike dealers and shipping companies to arrange bikes to go to Australia.