Nord Kapp via WW1

A fool on an MZ paying homage to the veterans of WW1 and his Fathers Arctic Convoy service in WW2.

It’s cold, very cold and it’s starting raining as I get to Dover! Well I guess that I had best get used to the idea as you don’t ride to Nord Kapp for blistering sunshine.

It seems to be the norm when I set off on a trip that involves ferries that I get to Dover early and I am able to get an earlier ferry; and yet again I’m on one almost an hour before that scheduled!! There are 6 coaches, 4 motorcycles and half dozen cars so it’s hardly overloaded. One of the bikes is heading for Dubrovnik and the remaining 3 are off to a Harley rally in Biarritz. When they find out were I’m off to there’s a mixture of sniggers (Harley riders) and admiration.

At least one of the coaches is a school trip to the Flanders WW1 battle field sites. At 7.30 in the morning a pupil is already well worse for drink and starts holding court about WW1 and Ypres. A “tutor”, who looked the same age as him, joins in and frankly confirms all my fears about the current dumb’d down education policy of this country. The trip is otherwise uneventful and I’m one of the first off.

 

It’s a pleasure to be on European soil again, unfortunately I’m battling head / side winds all the way to Leper. (Ypres) but at least the driving has improved immeasurably.

I arrive about 1pm local time and head to the Flanders Fields museum located in the rebuilt Cloth Hall . Excellent and 8 Euro very well spent. Thought I was well versed with the Ypres salient and Pashendale etc but discovered many new things and the audio visual displays are very good. An encouraging sign was the number of school children from all nations clearly very involved in the displays and the history.

 

Just down the road is Menin Gate. Words cannot describe the impact, the names on its walls are overwhelming and I wonder what the Last Post ceremony will be like at 8pm. A ceremony that takes place every evening, every day, without fail.

 

Went to Polgeste wood + 4 other cemeteries: British cemetery at Messines Ridge affects me and is gut wrenching.

My chosen camp site is half way up the Kemmelburg, a hill defended by the French and upon which many lives were lost. A secluded area has been set aside for the campers, I suspect so that the mobile homes owners don’t have to look at the camping plebs.

 

After a well needed very hot shower I head back to Leper for an evening meal and encounter more drunken youths. Luckily the restaurant has an unsecured ISP so I’m able to send an email home.

A walk around the moat and ramparts of the town whilst waiting for Last Post ceremony helps settle the stomach. Well over 1000 people are in attendance and many are school kids from around Europe: As usual the British kids couldn’t keep quiet, and some uncomplimentary comments were made by officials.

Back to tent: chocolate and so to bed.

 

 

 

Day 2

 

5 /5/.10

 

Bloody freezing night ! Not much sleep. Up at 7.30 and hot shower. Porridge and chocolate for brecky. Take short ride up the Kemmelburg to see the memorial and then head into Leper for proper breakfast but everywhere is closed till 10.30, so I head off to the Pashedale museum.

Within the museum they’ve replicated a section of a British trench and all the activities that used to be carried out are displayed. It’s very well done and is worth the 5 Euro entry fee on its own.

 

I then head for Tyne Cot: No words can describe the impact of this, the largest Commonwealth cemetery in the world. Row after row of crosses the vast majority un-named also includes 2 German left from when the site was a German bunk house. However, the impact of the rear wall listing the lost ---- without a grave -----genuinely brings a lump to my throat.

 

I visit the Tyne Cot information centre and then spend sometime just sitting opposite the cemetery on the site of the old railway line just contemplating the shear horror of it all.

I head back to Leper via a number of other memorial sites and also the Yorkshire Trench which is situated in the middle of an Industrial estate!

 

After lunch, never had breakfast, a trip to the Spanbroekmolen Crater and Lone Tree cemetery. The crater is the aftermath of a subterranean mine, one of 10, blown up under German lines on the 7th June 1917. Of the ten, 3 didn’t explode and the location of them was lost. One exploded during a thunderstorm in the 1960’s but the other two remain lost.

 

I fuel the bike and return to the camp site and pay. Luckily I’m allowed to use their internet for free but the site owner decides that that I’m using too much of his free internet but not buying enough (if any) drinks so asks me to carry on outside and closes the café doors. Thanks to the modern wonders of Skype I’m able to have a “face to face” telephone conversation with my wife.  Off to Germany and sister in laws tomorrow early.

 

Day 3 

 

 6/5/10

 

 UK Election day

 

Up at 7. There’s been very heavy dew and I’ve no option but to risk packing the tent before it’s dry.

 

 Stop for breakfast just before the Kennedy tunnel at Antwerp and notice the wind is getting up. Not for the first time I take the wrong turning on the motorway just outside Antwerp but soon correct my mistake.

The sheer number of lorries on the road is causing a few “serious” moments when over taking. Loaded, the MZ cruises along at 65/70 quite happily but this equates to a speed only 5 to 10 mile an hour faster than the trucks so I have to be aware of the very fast moving traffic coming from the rear and plan any overtakes with great care.

The wind is constantly head/side to full head. At times I cannot pull 5th gear and have to drop into 3rd when pulling out from a trucks slipstream and into the full blast of the wind. In spite of the abuse the bikes performing very well which is more than can be said for the rider, I’m feeling like I’ve been through a continuous spin cycle

Just as I’m beginning to think about petrol the bike coughs and a quick switch to reserve is needed. Luckily there’s a petrol station within a mile so I’m able to get my first continuous full tank reading. 204 miles ----- not good, that means that between the extra load and the wind I’m some 75 miles per tank short of my projected mileage and in turn likely to over spend the petrol budget.

 

The weather starts to look very threatening as soon as I cross the German border. It gets worse and by the time I’m some 50 miles from my sister in law’s at Lohne it starts to rain, sleet and eventually snow.  Only 50 miles but such is the violence of the storm that’s hit me I seriously consider stopping at a very expensive motel.

After an age, I arrive extremely wet, cold and aching in places that I didn’t know I had. A hot shower and meal (My sister in Law doesn’t know how to serve normal portions and maintains her policy of feeding the 5000). I should not have risked packing the tent with so much dew----it’s soaked through but the sister in law has a very large cellar with drying facilities and between us were able to hang out the tent to dry

 

 

The weather forecast is bad for the next day so I’m probably holding up for a day.

 

Day 4

 

7/5/10

 

Spend most of the day being fed and watered by sister in law. Listened to the election fiasco on the internet. Checked over bike, took all of 4 mins !!! Dried out the tent and boots. That’s it!!

 

Day 5

 

 8/5/10

 

I manage to leave just before 8am with enough sandwiches to feed the German army but at least get away without having hard boiled eggs thrust upon me --- family joke now wearing very thin! The weather has improved slightly but it’s still very windy and overcast. I find out later that another storm blew in not long after I had left and that most of the Northern part of Germany was badly affected by heavy snow fall.

 

My route takes me through the Elbe Tunnel at Hamburg. A very different experience from the Mersey or Dartford tunnels, multi lane, very well lit and no overpowering smell of fumes. Although heavy the traffic moves freely and the journey passes easily. However, I’m wondering why there are just so many loaded up Germen cars, some towing boats and caravans all heading towards Denmark! The sheer volume of cars mean that when I stop for fuel I’m immersed in a queue reminiscent of the petrol shortage queues we experienced during the petrol price protests.

 

Just after Flensburg the rain starts again and provides a less than welcoming entry to Denmark, it also gets noticeably colder. Fortunately the camp site, although initially looking like a dump turns out to be an inspired choice especially as I manage to get a free hot shower. I cause a minor hiatus when their internet would not connect up to my note book. After cooking a slap up meal of … pasta…. I calculate that the bike’s actually returning slightly better fuel mileage than I had feared and the two stroke oil consumption is spot on. I adjust and lightly lubricate the chain, more out of the need to do something than it actually requiring it, enclosed chains are such a first rate design .

 

After numerous attempts to connect up I manage to book the ferry crossing to Norway from Hirtshalls to Kristiansand. At 66 Euro all in for a 3 hour crossing its good value. Only trouble is it leaves at 12.15 Monday 10th and gets in at about 15.30. This does not leave me much time to get in some miles before having to stop for the night.

 

Day 6 

 

9/5/10

 

Wake to that sound all campers dread: rain, and its dam cold again!! As it’s only 5.30 I roll over and try to sleep some more. Eventually at 7 it stops raining and I head for the shower block. Guess what, I manage to get it for free again ……….must be the MZ mantra.

Manage to get most of the surface rain off the tent but it’s still going to be packed wet AGAIN! Fortunately my internet problems have reached the manager and I don’t have to pay …another result.

 

Back onto the E45, surely one of the most boring roads in Europe, and head for Arhus.

 

It’s even colder in Arhus so, instead of looking around the old town as I had planned, I buy a very expensive coffee and fuel up. There are many woman walking around with bunches of red roses and whole families are packing into the churches: It’s Mothering Sunday in Europe, a religious day and a social day; not the hyper commercial “Mothers Day” that we have.

 

Whilst fuelling up I feel a tap on the shoulder, and instantaneously I’m engaged in a conversation about George Formby and the TT’s. Maybe I should explain why: I’ve a GBM plate on the back (I’m entitled before anyone complains). Seems this gentleman believes that dear old George won the TT on a Norton Dominator, he didn’t did he?

Then, just as I restart the MZ I get another tap!  This time the chaps ridden an MZ round the Med coast: You meet the nicest people on an MZ !

 

On the road and so to Hobro: Hobro hosted the formula 4 powerboat championships in 1985 and I was there! In fact I engineered the winning boat.

The town has changed a fair bit but the harbour is the same. And, as if to welcome me back, the sun comes out and there’s wall to wall blue sky. By the time I get to Hirtshalls it’s positively hot and I’ve got the sun glasses on and removing layers.

 

Before I left the UK I joined the YHA so that I had an alternative to camping and I now book into the most delightful modern hostel and manage to dry the tent and get a decent meal inside me. I know its going to cost but I convince myself it’s worth it.

After studying the map and chatting to home via Skype I’m a bit worried whether I’m going to be able to do this trip in the time allotted. Not only that, but if the weather remains bad I’m going to have to use more hostels and at an average of £30 a night in Norway, my budget is going to be blown apart.

 

Never the less I book a room in the Oslo Hostel for 2 nights. This means that I will have to cram in 200 miles tomorrow as soon as the boat docks. I still won’t arrive till 8pm though. However, this will allow me time to see the Viking Boat Museum and also the KonTiki exhibition the following day and I also gain back the extra day I stayed in Germany.

 

Day 7 

 

10/5/10

 

After a brilliant sunset last night it’s bright and cloud free but the winds freezing. Ferry to Norway 12.15 pm:  What a difference to the vessels that cross the channel or even the Irish Sea, almost a mini cruise liner. Had a very interesting couple of hour’s conversation with a German motorcyclist; owner of 3 BMW’s and previously a MZ outfit ---- clearly a man with class!

The ferry docked exactly on time and after clearing customs I set off to cover the 200+ miles to Oslo.

Wow, everyone sticks to the speed limits and is very cautious, not surprising as there’s speed cameras everywhere. I start to wonder if I’m going to get to the hostel at a sensible time.

Although its still very bright----got the sunglasses on--- it gets cold very quickly so by the time I arrive, I’m frozen right though.

Luckily the showers are boiling hot and I start to feel human again. Unfortunately I think I’m coming down with a cold so a dose of vitamin C and a few paracetamol, a meal (more pasta) and straight to bed.

Some unruly kids decide to play havoc at 3 am so sleeps not plentiful.

 

 

Day 8  

 

11/5/10

 

The day dawns bright but there’s been a heavy frost over night.

I have set today aside to visit the Viking boat museum and the Kon Tiki. As a child Thor Heyerdahl and his adventure in Kon Tiki and Ra helped foster my adventurous nature and gave me an understanding of just how much of the world is out there waiting to be seen.

 

A surprise awaited me as I emerged from the Kon Tiki museum; opposite and only very recently opened was a building containing the Fram. The vessel designed and built by Fridtjof Nansen for Arctic exploration and then subsequently used by Amundsen.

The Viking boat museum is indeed a treasury and something I am so glad I’ve seen. It’s just astounding to see the quality of workmanship, the design and execution of these vessels and remembering all the time the primitive tools they had with which to build them. Further, when you see them close up and personal you cannot be but in ore of the people that crossed possibly the roughest ocean in them. Unforgettable.

 

Back at the hostel I have a long Skype conversation with home. I need to make some important decisions and a second head is helpful. Eventually I decide to strike north but with significant modification to my intended route.

 

I had intended to head towards the West coast and the fiords but it’s become obvious that this was over ambitious and will be extremely expensive. … I knew petrol was expensive in Norway so I had allowed 50% extra in my calculations but every tank is costing me some £5 over that which I would pay in England and my budget just will not allow for the run to the fiords. It’s a blow but in every trip there comes a point were decisions have to be made and plans altered. The Atlantic coast road will have to wait another day! By heading directly north on the E6 I need to cover 300+ mile days.

 

A further concern is that for some reason my body core seems to be getting very cold all too easily yet the extremities are ok. I’m wondering if the elastic on the side of my 20 year old Weise jacket has finally had it and a draft is getting in. Maybe a bungee round my middle might solve that problem.

 

Before heading to bed I’m forced to listen to two Americans putting the world to rights and running down the British Empire! Cannot be bothered getting involved, usual American Bullshit and arrogance.

 

Day 9 

 

12/5/10

 

300 miles to cover and I’ve woken with the mega shits (sorry). The day becomes dominated by the need to answer the call of nature. The countryside is just brilliant and Lillehammer is just wonderful, the approach from the south is spectacular as the whole vista is dominated by the lake and the mountains reflected upon it, stunning. But even this beauty cannot distract me, I’m feeling so so ill.

 

The bike must sense my distress as it seems to take over as I’ve very little recollection of the rest of the trip. Eventually the bike gets me to Dombas but it’s down to me to find the hostel I booked last night. After the most uncomfortable hour you can imagine a passer by takes pity on me and directs me to what he believed could be the place, it was and to you sir “Thank you”.

 Situated as part of a main hotel complex in a ski resort it was a delight. To cap it all, I had the whole place to myself. After contacting home (Skype) I eventually forced down a small plate of chips!

Early to bed to try and get rid of this problem as I have potentially 7 hours riding ahead of me tomorrow.

 

 

Day 10 

 

 13/5/10

 

Slept right through! Roused myself at 7 and packed the bike. Breakfast, included in the price, was at 8 and I decided to try to get something into my stomach. All seemed to be well but all too soon that all too familiar feeling reoccurred. Time for more Imodium!

 

The weather forecast made mention of rain towards the end of the day but for now, although overcast it’s fine, not even that cold considering the altitude and location.

 

The first part of today’s journey skirted the Dovrefjel National park: stunning scenery but very desolate and everywhere still covered in snow right to the roads edge. Even the lakes were snow covered! The road itself was a rider’s delight and there were extended periods were I was the only vehicle not only on the road but seemingly in the country! I certainly enjoyed myself and the dear MZ revelled in the bend swinging even with its load.

Trondheim: Mixed feelings about the place: Like everywhere new development and infrastructure is taking place yet, turn a corner, crest a hill and the coastal vista’s are incredible: It really is true that you do run out of descriptive adjectives to use when talking about this part of the world and I know that it’s only going to get more awe inspiring the further north I go.

Still on the E6, just prior to Grong, it starts to rain and as I’ve not eaten I decide to pull over, fuel up and try to eat something. I’m not one for hamburgers normally, but it’s the only section of the menu I can understand so in for a Krona and order one. Well it goes down a treat and seems to stay down (or at least in). The rain continues to fall with increased force, I’ve no option but to continue and shortly the road surface starts to deteriorate markedly.

Up to this now the road cannot be faulted. Ok in places there’s some impressive road works and their inherent temporary surfaces but even then it’s nothing like as bad as we have in the UK. However, the surface now is cracked, potholed and subsidence is almost everywhere. The adverse camber on some of the corners is enough to ground the pannier frames and the four foot ditch on either side of the road tempers any enthusiastic cornering.

About 30 miles short of my planned overnight stop at Trofors I spy a hotel and pull over: I’m wet and I’m cold; my booked “cabin” was described as basic and I’m tempted by the welcoming lights and the thought of a warm place for the night. However, I’m not tempted by the cost and thank goodness as the cabin turns out to be sheer luxury.

 

Day 11

 

 14/5/10

 

I wake at 1am and it’s all but light outside and the nearer to Nord Kapp I get now the more of the “Mid Night sun” I will experience.

 

Today I will cross the Arctic Circle but first I have to contend with very misty conditions, the result of yesterdays torrential rain and the still snow covered ground that combine to provided some interesting moments on the road and some very atmospheric conditions.

The road surface continues to be very mixed and challenging especially as it’s still wet and rather on the cold side. Probably no chance of ice but I’m not chancing it although the tunnels are cold enough!

I need to cover 555km’s + a 25minute ferry crossing today so I cannot hang about especially as the Narvik Hostel closes its doors at 4pm!!

 

The climb up to the Arctic Circle is very cold, snowy, and in places down right lethal. Those long unused trials and enduro skills come flooding back just when I need them, phew!

 

I had been forewarned that the Arctic Circle crossing point on the E6 had become a tourist trap however, today, due to the arctic conditions, there was almost nobody around so the experience was more in keeping with my expectations, and more so when I was told  that the previous day I would have been trapped for 5 hours due to a blizzard. OK there’s a “centre” selling souvenirs etc and a café but these things one has to expect these days!

 

Yesterdays blizzard had covered the already snow bound mountains with an additional 3 to 5 feet of new snow so at times I was riding through a tunnel of snow… fantastic. After about 10 miles from the crossing the weather dramatically improved and the sun bouncing off the snow produce the most awesome views. However the need to press on was paramount as I spent far too long taking pictures and generally taking it all in. Unfortunately the road conditions continued to be variable and at times dangerous.

 

The kilometers pass by and then suddenly and unexpectedly I get to the ferry. A 25minute ride across the fiord and it’s only a short ride to Narvik and my 4pm deadline is safe. The Hostel reception is however closed but at least there’s an envelope on the desk for me containing the key and other information so I unload the required bags from the bike and head for a welcome shower.

 

Seems everything closes early in Narvik! As I make my way out to check the bike over,( I’ve blown a fork seal); I find that the restaurant closes at 5pm. There’s nothing I can do about the fork seal and the bike, although looking like it’s done the Welsh 3 day trial, (sorry that’s now called enduro) seems OK. I dash back in and pig out on roast beef, boiled potatoes, carrots and fruit salad ---- my first real meal in days and certainly the first quality food! Interestingly the price of the meal is dependant on the weight and a sweet plus drink is included free.

 

The early closing Hostel claims another victim but in this case he’s not pre booked. A young chap from Israel taking a year out backpacking round Europe! Anyway, between us we get the receptionist to return and he gets a room. Not only him but 3 more travellers, this time Chinese, so I wonder if the Hostels early closing policy is going to be revoked!

 

 

Day 12

 

 15/5/10

 

Later start than I would have liked but breakfast was not till 8 and it’s included in the bill so I make sure I take full advantage especially as my stomach has recovered.

 

 

From freezing mountain wilderness covered in deep snow and frozen lakes to 19+ degree coast roads with the surrounding mountains framed by crystal clear blue sky.  Local fishermen hanging out the last of the season’s herring and farmers getting the land ready for the summer. What a brilliant day full of contrasts and stunning scenery, challenging roads and some history. In fact a day to be glad that I ride a motorbike!

 

The Alta fjord is the resting place of the Tirpitz and there are many signs directing me to museums and view points but unfortunately everywhere is still closed as the summer season has not started, pity as I would have liked to have seen how this event was depicted.

 

 

 

This coming Monday is Norway’s National day and, combined with the Ascension Day religious ceremony having taken place on the previous Thursday, many Norwegians have taken a very long weekend holiday. This weekend also marks the end of the “season” for using snow mobiles in the mountains and there are many already being towed back home.

 

The Hostel at Alta used to be a military camp until 2007 when it was sold to private development. Now, after a lot of investment the place is to become the first golf course in the north of Norway and all thanks to some cleaver Astroturf development in Spain. I hope they succeed as it’s very clear that a lot of money has already been invested in top class machinery and golfing infrastructure.

 

 

Day 13 

 

16/5/10

 

 

Today is the climax of the trip, with luck and continuing good weather I will be at Nord Kapp, and a slight apprehension creeps in. Just what will it be like; will I locate the Arctic convoy’s memorial I so want to see?

 

The ride over the Stabbursdalen mountains is even more spectacular than I had imagined: Tundra wilderness, deep snow and bitterly cold. I’m constantly amazed at the number of cabins and more substantial homes in this bleak environment; The Norwegians certainly are into being “at one” with their surroundings the flipside however being their use of so many none green toys in the shape of snow mobiles and quad bikes.

 

At last the E6, which I’ve been on since Oslo turns to the E69 which clings to the coast and is similarly challenging to ride but without the constantly varying road surface. In fact, as the interest in Nord Kapp has grown so has the coach trips and it’s clear that the E69 has been “developed” to cater for this.

 

Previously, a ferry was needed to get to Mageroya, the islands were Nord Kapp is, but today there’s a tunnel: All 6870 meters of it and it descends at 9% into the depths were its absolutely freezing! The same 9% rise up has the dear MZ down to 3rd gear ---- my fault as I was so cold I failed to recognize the beginning of the climb!  75 Krona for the pleasure of the tunnel

 

The road continues to follow the coast and I see the first of many reindeer down by the sea and jumping across the road.  Funny looking creatures and highly scatty. This area of Norway is inhabited by the Suomi people and they and the reindeer live hand in hand. The main town of Honningsvag is reached which means I’ve only another  30km left.

 

Climbing yet again the wilderness makes a final appearance with a vengeance. The wind on the top is extraordinary and I have to lean the bike hard into the wind and at the same time turn it in that direction as well. These 30kms are probably the hardest of the hole trip, unbelievable but there again it would not be worth doing if it were easy!

 

Nord Kapp is at its simplest a lump of granite at the end of Northern Europe. Today there is a visitor centre and quite frankly it’s as bad as I had been warned. The 250 Krona entry (that’s over £25) lets you into a modern structure that’s been designed with one thing and one thing only in mind; take as much money from the visitor as possible. If ornithology is your thing then there is an extensive exhibition within the building . Fortunately, and probably due to the time of year, I don’t have to pay

 

Firing up the MZ I take one last look back and head for the hostel in Honningsvag.

 

So, I’ve accomplished what I set out to do: Yes I’m pleased that I’ve accomplished it and especially so on this bike, a bike that only cost me £150 and has so far proved utterly faultless and given me a sense of achievement that I do not think could be half as great had I chosen a modern BMW “adventure” bike. Although hard and very demanding both due to the weather and the general road conditions it has to be significantly easier now then when my friend Tony Page did it in 1985 and with  that some of the adventure element has been lost and likewise innocence.

 

 

 

 

The Road Home:

 

Day 14

 

 17/5/10

 

As mentioned before, todays the national day of Norway and it seams the whole of Norway is either at a party or is at home and everyone is in National dress.

Leaving Honisvegen by the same route (there’s no other) as I arrived I have to pay again for the pleasure of using the tunnel : The joke about having to pay to get out falls on stony ground and even the explanation : about having to pay to get into Wales but being allowed out for free; does not produce a glimmer of a smile !!

 

I see Fish Eagles by the dozen diving for their breakfast, Seals, Arctic Tern and the ever present Reindeer. It truly is a wonderful day especial as the whole day is devoid of traffic and I have the most delightful of rides.  I even stop for a sleep on one of the road side picnic tables at the very summit of the Skuoggelsassa range -- excellent.

Taking the dear old E6, I arrive just after midday in Karasjok and go to the campsite of the same name. I had a room booked in a chalet but when I get there the place smells bad and its clear that the two other occupants are not keen on company: There’s an Australian girl camped so I pitch my tent and we get chatting: She’s in the fourth year of a round the world cycling adventure and is only to pleased to tell of here travels ---- puts my trip into a bit of a perspective!!

 

The Owner of the site turns up and, having been primed by the Australian girl, I go through the ritual of trying to pretend I’m interested in football and that Manchester United are the best team in the world: neither of cause are in the slightest of interest to me and quite probably not true anyway! Even though when I booked he said he took cards he now decides that the machine does not work and I have to pay cash so, it’s on with the helmet and into town for some money.

He’s gone by the time I get back and at 10 I decide to hit the sleeping bag:  I’ve just dozed off when there’s a thump on the tent and a voice demanding payment: Its his business partner; I let him know in no uncertain terms that I was asleep and that I was going to let the camping association he’s a member of know about all this. Needless to say either he doesn’t understand or couldn’t care and is the only person I encounter that does not display open friendliness and be a delight to meet.

 

Day 15

 

 18/5/10

 

I’m packed and having coffee and doughnut in the local Statoil station by 7 am.  Statoil stations and the larger petrol stations in general are a life saver in these parts as they sell everything a traveler could want to sustain the body and maintain the vehicle. Buy a special cup and cap for approximately £15 when you first enter Norway (or Sweden) and enjoy free coffee for the rest of the year at Statoil stations.

 

I had planned to take a very minor road to join the E75 to Rovaniemi in Finland but some how I take the wrong road and by the time I realize its to far to be worth turning back and anyway the road I’m on is well surfaced and passing through some pleasant enough scenery. Because this is high tundra country  and as it’s blistering hot ----- yes you read correctly ---- it reminds me almost of those roads though the heartland of Spain but with steep hills and not miles and miles of straight road!

 

 

I pass out of the Arctic Circle somewhere near Kautokeino and into Finland. The E8 runs parallel to the Swedish border and there are a lot of military and customs bases located alongside.

 

At 65009 miles my speedo cable decides to cry enough and as I decided against packing a spare cable I guess its sods law that it’s gone. Lucky it went now and not in the more wild areas of Norway where the filling stations are a lot more spread out. So it’s down to on the road mental maths (never a strong point) or going to reserve and hoping there’s a station close by.

 

385 miles and some 7 and half hours later I arrive in Kalix, Sweden. I’ve had enough and cannot face pitching the tent and cooking so I  book into the hostel and treat myself to Pizza………Swedish waitresses are stunning!

 

Day 16  

 

19/5/10

 

I now make the second change to my planned itinerary. I had planned to head into the centre of Sweden and go south on the 45 but like Norway, Sweden is expensive and I decide to take the more direct and main E4 towards Stockholm instead

Just before midday the weather starts to worsen and by Gavle, and some 100 miles from Stockholm it’s throwing it down so again I have to hunt out a hotel or hostel. Just as I’m beginning to think I might indeed be in for a wet night in the tent I spy the one and only hostel and they’ve got room! I decline to book breakfast as it’s nearly £10. I literally collapse into the shower and after a sleep cook some pasta with soup.

Over 500 miles today and the fatigue of the trip is really hitting home hard. Combined with “coming down” from the highs at Nord Kapp I’m finding it difficult

 

Day 17

 

 20/0/10

 

I’m on the road by 6am and realise that I’ve left my towel in the hostel, it’s not worth going back for it and I  press on: 150 miles later and I stop for a coffee and muffin, hardly the most healthy of breakfasts but it hit’s the spot. Today already its feeling like an extreme endurance event; the weathers bad, the winds blowing me about and I’m tired the only thing that seems immune to problems is the MZ.

 

Pass Linkoping, the home of Saab, and so that no one forgets there are examples of their aircraft mounted on pedestals by the side of the road. On the way to Jonkoping the weather closes and lakeVatten is totally obscured in the mist; by Husquavana the bike is starting to protest at the incessant pace.

 

I have to take up a significant amount of chain slack and also retard the timing as it appears that I have somehow picked up some dodgy petrol…..try that with a GS . Although there’s a slight improvement the power has significantly dropped and I have to change down for inclines that previously we stormed up.

 

At Helsinborg I catch the ferry for Denmark and some 20mins later I’m there. I decide to mark the last night with a decent hostel and head for Roskilde . Instead of the normal shared accommodation I treat myself to a single room and shower and head off for a meal and my first beer of the trip.

It turns out that I’ve struck lucky as tonight’s cruise night and the harbor is awash with custom cars, bikes of all ages and styles and the good, the beautiful and the rich are promenading around: I spy and photograph 5 Nimbus motorcycles….. There getting common!

 

I’ve only 175 miles to the port of Esjberg and the ferry home.

 

 

Day 18 

 

21/5/10

Mums Birthday

 

A late departure (well for me of late) and just gently cruise the last miles. The bridges between Halsskov and Nyborg make the Seven and Dartford crossing look like miniature versions and to look down onto the deck of a super tanker with its crew like worker ants as it passes underneath is surreal.

 

I arrive in Esbjerg around midday and have 4 hours to kill. A quick call to wish my Mother a happy birthday and then a walk round Esbjerg.  The place has little to offer so, as it’s a nice enough day I head to the port, park up ready for embarkation and cook up some of the pasta and soups I have left. Eventually people arrive and I strike up a very enjoyable conversation with a Swedish gent who’s given up work and starting an extended cycling trip by visiting England; were shortly joined by German couples that are going to be cycling round Ireland!

 

An hour before we’re due to leave a “posse” of Gold Wing trikes (all English registered) arrives. I’ve never seen so much chrome / glitter and general over the top accessorized machines: What’s the point? Surely there’s no difference in these and a car!

 

Day 19  

 

22/5/10

 

Peering out of the cabin window reveals little as there’s a thick sea mist but the odd glimpse of the sun suggests it may well be a good day.

Ships radio plays: In the Gheto…to my mind the finest Elvis song and the sun burns of the remaining mist

The arrival in Harwick coincides with a local sailing regatta so the ships horn is in almost constant use….never mind it prepares me for the congestion I know that waits on the roads of England.  Every time I come back from a trip to Europe I am consistently taken aback by the traffic volumes and bad driving in this country; heaven only knows what the continentals think when they dock !

 

An uneventful ride back to Woking via the Dartford river crossing and the delights of the M25 and all too soon it’s all over.

 

 

Carpe Dien

 

 

 

 

I’ve been as far west as you can go and, with the exception of the odd island, the furthest south; and now that I’ve done the northern most part of mainland Europe I’m left with only the furthest eastern part. By my estimation this is still Istanbul so that’s the next great MZ tour.

 

 

Note: the MZ only required a new chain and sprockets, two fork oil seals and a dam good clean. I replaced the rear tyre but it still had another 1000 or so miles left in it:  Not even a plug and that’s now done over 10,000 miles with 6000 being this trip.