Around the World - Life On A Bike
Follow this story by emailA travel story by Ken & Carol Duval
A travel story by Ken & Carol Duval
On the fifth of January it snowed which was to be our day of finally leaving Ushuaia, not that we wanted to leave. Despite the crazy weather we loved this place so we delayed our departure another day, finally leaving around 1.00pm on the sixth of January and headed to Rio Grande. The weather was sunny in Ushuaia but once in the mountains the skies closed in and around 70 kms from Rio Grande the rain started drizzling. In a fine patch of sky we stopped to check out a beaver dam that we spotted heading south a few weeks before.
Los Antiguos and its paved roads faded quickly into the distance as we headed south on Ruta 41. The ripio was sandy and corrugated (washboard) and the newly repaired fairing rattled more than I would have liked. Stopping, we contemplated returning to an easier route but a quick inspection revealed a loose mounting bolt. On the road again and things were a fair bit quieter as we rattled along. Around the fifteen kilometre mark we were stopped by the Chilean Police in the middle of a fairly inhospitable piece of real estate.
Before departing Puerto Varas we enquired with our host Andy at Casa Azul the whereabouts of a motorcycle shop in Puerto Montt so we could purchase a new front tyre. His direction however was to a shop less than a kilometer away. A small Yamaha dealer who had exactly what we wanted and it matched our current rear tyre. Fitting the tyre in his workshop we departed for Puerto Montt around lunchtime. After all the hassles with the purchase of the rear tyre this was too easy.
Puerto Madryn is used as a base to access Peninsula Valdes so it was no surprise to find backpackers discussing the attributes or lack of in using a day tour to sight the wild life on Peninsula Valdes. Some had already been and were extremely disappointed that less than an hour was given to get a chance sighting of the killer whales in action. This rarely happens and we encouraged a few to combine forces, hire a car and head out for a whole day or even more as this would be the best way to get a possible sighting providing the tides were suitable.
May, June, July 2008 Update
Our plan was originally to head north from Santiago as far as we could, time and seasons permitting, jump the Andes through one of numerous passes, then head south back to San Rafael in Argentina. Mario was quick to point out that many of the passes were seasonal and some would be closed. Alas, we changed directions once again, as our intended Andes crossing was not possible due to a late April closure.
Departing from John and Annettes farm in San Rafael we headed north east to Grl Belgrano passing through San Luis. This ruta has one of the longest straight roads we have ever ridden probably around 100 kms long and reminds us very much of the Nullabor in Australia. Belgrano has a strong German influence and also celebrates an annual Oktoberfest. The weather was superb with warm days and cool nights and the festivities were in full swing when we arrived.
The tourist office in Posadas gave us a number of options to bunk down for the evening so cruising the streets on a very quiet Sunday was a different experience. Posadas is another river city and has a very active waterfront laced with parks and restaurants. The evening brought no respite from the afternoon heat and hundreds of people gathered on the grassed banks trying to get cool in the river breeze. Restaurants were packed as we walked the pathways searching for a suitable eatery. Outside tables were at a premium so it was inside or nothing. Whew!!! Was it hot!!..
Thursday 1st Buenos Aires
In the evening after our first contact with the Dakar vehicles at la Rural we were fortunate to dine out with several motorcycle travelers staying in Buenos Aires. Rider # 116 Don Hatton from Canada visited our small group before dinner passing on his thanks to Javier and Sandra for their help in Buenos Aires. Good to meet another rider to look out for over the next two weeks.
March 2009 Update
Our family of campers at La Posta was down to five with the departure of Andy (USA) and the mood was dampened a little when it rained over the next couple of days. No leaks with the tent though and we hoped that the rain would disappear for Jorges Birthday asado. Fabrice (France) a free lance motorcyclist journalist arrived with his girlfriend from Venezuela in their small motor home and proceeded to photograph and interview everyone for a special article on La Posta.
Delaying our departure from Rocha was the correct decision with a clear blue sky greeting us early in the morning. Hotel Arrarte included a light breakfast in the price and after a quick pack we were on the road early.April 2009 Update
August 2009 Update Belem to Manaus The Long Way Belem appeared busy every day of the week with people bustling around even on the weekends. Our boat ride organized and with the help of Alex who also owns a small motorcycle shop, we were able to find a suitable knobby front tyre for the anticipated dirt roads ahead. Pirelli MT 21s are manufactured in Brazil but they are almost impossible to find. Even the Honda dealer did not have them listed in his Pirelli tyre book. Even the Metzler Sahara 3 also manufactured in Brazil was not available.
September 2009 Update Manaus Brazil to Cajamarca Peru
Carol had a days rest from navigating a big city as Joelmir escorted us to the bustling wharves of Manaus. Two in a row for her, as Cecilias GPS gave her a holiday in Belem as well. Competing with cars, trucks, motorbikes, pushbikes and pedestrians in 40+C heat is not fun but having someone who knows the way up front makes it much easier.