Well I just returned from a 21 day motorcycle ride on the KKH and it is to die for.  I have lots of riding all over the world having traveled 100 countries and this trip was awesome.  I am from USA so was a little apprenhensive about going to Pakistan.  I needed a letter of invatation to get visa and then needed a guide.  Karakorum Bikers was the tour company I chose and they were great.  The bikes were Suzuki 150 electric start and were just the bike for this trip.  We started in Islamabad and took land rover to Naran the first day and then the second day we drove to Gilgit where we picked up the bikes.  We drove to Skardu, Shigar, Passu, Hushe.  We did Deosai national park and lake attabad and the Hussaini bridge which is the scary bridge of the world.  You will not meet more than 3 or 4 doing this as the remoteness is unreal but you will never regret it.  Ride fast take chances.  Larry