It was a relatively simple affair to get a ticket for the boat in Belem and the boat was much better than I expected - thank God I didn´t go for hammock class - similar to 3rd class trains in India, with ten hammocks in the space I would think only two should go. My cabin was small but clean and also cool as it had a fan - I shared it with a french backpacker, - they had assured me that they don´t allow mixed cabins so at least I didn´t have to worry about sharing with some amorous Brazillian bloke.

I also met up with another biker on board, the first overlander I have met in ages, Raymundo Huerta from Mexico riding a Harley-Davidson and also heading to Venezuela - having ridden down to Ushuaia and is on his way home - despite most people's misgivings and the poor state of many of the roads, Ray is proud to report that he has not had a single mechanical problem with his Harley

There were almost no mosquitoes due to the constant movement of the boat and even the food was OK - rice, beans, pasta and potatoes for lunch and dinner every day- it was actually served with beef and chicken - but I don't eat meat.

Loading Thelma onto boats is always an experience and this one was no different- I was screeching at the deckhands like a fishwife as they almost let Thelma fall into the hold with me on her!
I had ridden up the gangplank (nerve-wracking in itself) and at the top, they were all so busy watching Ray's bike they didn´t catch me as I was heading towards the black hole of the hold whilst braking as hard as I could - I´d had to do a bit of an Evel Knivel-style rev up the narrow gangplank ramp as it was quite steep, so there was no room for error at the top.
They then tied a rope around Thelma and sweating profusely, they creakily lowered her into the hold - I could hardly bear to look.

The views from the boat were superb - lush jungle, children in dug-out canoes trying to "surf" the boat´s wake, villages on stillts, Amazonian River dolphins swimming alongside the boat and even a sighting of the rare pink dolphin.
Parrots, storks, eagles, parrakeets - hundreds of birds and some of the most stunning sunrises and sunsets I have ever seen.