4 December - Ondjiva to Ondangwa Namibia (Border Crossing)

Today we departed for the Namibian border. We had a modest breakfast of game sausage with eggs and stale bread. It was just ok, but left me a little hungry(partly because I didn't eat the game sausage). We stopped by a brand new grocery store on our way out of town to re-stock supplies. It was a proper store with everything we would want.

The ride to the border was only about 25 miles. We arrived and followed the signs to the immigration office which was a booth in the middle of the border plaza. The lady quickly stamped us out and directed us to aduaneiro (customs) just a couple hundred feet ahead. We zipped up there and unloaded again. The agents were very friendly and they took our customs papers that we had received when we entered the country several days prior. They asked a few questions about our trip, shook our hands and said have a nice trip. It was quick and pleasant.

We proceeded to the Namibia entry post and parked the bikes out front of the immigration and customs building. There were a couple fixers hanging around outside trying to make small talk with us, tell us where to go, and tried to offer us an ink pen (really trying!). We replied: we know where we’re going and we have our own pens! Thank you very much!

The immigration process was easy—just fill out a simple form and you get the stamp. Customs was also straightforward and we had to pay a road tax (~$12 USD). After the road tax was paid, we walked down the sidewalk to the permit office for them to process our Carnets. The lady was new, so she had a bit of confusion on filling it out. Her colleague helped her and we waved and pointed from the other side of the glass window where to write and where to stamp. It was a little funny and they laughed with us about it.Were

We were on the road shortly after. Namibia felt different. Maybe it was because we were driving on the left side of the road! Also immediately noticeable was the absence of the small motorbikes on the streets. We didn’t see any. It’s all cars and pickup trucks. We stopped at a gas station for a snack break. They had an ATM so we also got some cash (Namibian dollar). Our day ended at a nice (Marriot!) hotel in Ondangwa. We arrived around 2 pm, so it was a nice afternoon to do some laundry and relax in the air conditioning. 
 

5 December - Ondangwa to Otjiwarongo

It was a nice day, but it was very hot with straight roads and flat terrain. It was a challenge to stay awake in the 95 degree heat on arrow-straight road segments for over 10 miles at a time.  Along the highway to Otjiwarongo we passed many private reserves and safari lodges on the way down. I understand that Namibia is popular for safari tourism, with these private lands stocked with big game. We stayed at the Boutique Hotel in Otjiwaraongo town which was very nice. In the evening we walked to a nice little restarant a couple blocks away across the street. 
 

6 December - Otjiwarongo to Rehoboth

It was a beautiful and cool day under 90F all day, with the route passing into more interesting landscapes of small mountains and rocky outcroppings. There were beautiful sweeping views of the lands below us, and we gradually climbed to over 5000 feet. Entering a police checkpoint on the north side of Windhoek, the police officer almost gave me a ticket for not having a country of origin identification on my motorcycle. Apparently, we need a decal that states ‘USA’ in the southern Africa union countries. 

We were polite and avoided a ticket, and we promised to get it taken care of immediately. We entered Windhoek shortly after. It’s a nice city, sprawling across a hilly desert landscape. I began searching for sign shops and print shops to help us with our decals. The first couple places we went were unable to assist because they were too busy. The third place attempted to help us but they had a computer hardware malfunction preventing them from printing the decals. They directed us to another place down the street that exclusively makes labels. We stopped there and they were able to quickly help us, free of charge!

With our new stickers strategically placed on our bikes, we went and got some lunch at a local Indian restaurant then we knocked out the last 40 miles to Rehoboth. It’s a small town south of Windhoek, with not too much going for it. We found a quiet BNB that worked for us just fine. It was a shorter day than usual, and we got in around 3:30pm. After a quick rest, I decided to take a ride out to the nearby lake which had a dam and nature reserve. I had an itch to go riding in the dirt. It was an easy-going ride just a few miles outside of town-- I even saw a little wildlife: ostrich, antelope, and meerkats!
 

7 December - Rehoboth to Keetmanshoop

It was a beautiful day with long straight highways punctuated by some road construction stops. Keetmanshoop is nice and we found an excellent guest house to stay at. It was nearly new and very clean and modern. The owners recommended a German restaurant down the street for dinner.
 

8 December - Keetmanshoop to Noordoever

It was hot and windy blast down the highway on more long stretches, but today there was some variety in elevation. We descended down to the Orange River valley, spotted with beautiful orchards and farms. We landed at a nice guest house/motel run by a nice couple. We had dinner on site, with outdoor seating overlooking the fields of grapevines in the valley below.

9 December - Noordoever to Lambert’s Bay (Border Crossing)

Today was our entry into South Africa! We reached the border post immediately as we left Noordoewer. It was an easy and organized process for both Namibia and South Africa. We got our passports and Carnets stamped, then we were on our way.

We met a nice Japanese guy traveling on a Honda NC700 motorcycle. We chatted for a moment as he spoke little English. He had been traveling for 11 months from Europe on a similar route as ours.

The border process was quick so we had time to make some miles. I had called ahead to the hotel in Garies to ask if they had availability. The lady politely suggested that we might not be happy in Garies, as there were no good restaurants and not much going on for tourists. I was surprised by the honest recommendation, but it was appreciated. We decided to re-target for more popular destinations.

I wanted to ride to Lambert’s Bay on the coast, but the route contained many miles of unpaved road, and Mark and Ranee were not interested. So we decided to split up and reconvene the next day. I had an awesome ride on some backroads that turned to fast smooth dirt with panoramic views of the valley to the east and the ocean to the west. I made it to my hotel in Lambert’s bay and had dinner at a local seafood restaurant on the water.

Mark and Ranee had made it to Clanwilliam that afternoon, so I would join them in the morning. It would only be 45 minutes down the road for me the next morning to re-join them.
 

10 December - Lambert’s Bay to Paarl

I had a quick breakfast at the hotel and got on the road to Clanwilliam to re-join Mark and Ranee. It was a quick 45 minute ride down the paved highway. I arrived a few minutes early, so I got some gas and went to the store to buy some internet data for my phone.

I pulled out in front of the B&B where they were staying and they were already getting on their bike. We rolled out shortly after and headed down the valley on the N7. I had a plan to get off the highway and do a couple mountain passes through the Cedarberg wilderness area that day. I had scoped it out on RidewithGPS and it was supposed to be 100% paved, however just a few miles into the first mountain pass the road turned to gravel. We committed for a couple miles hoping it was temporary, but after that I stopped and recommended that Mark and Ranee make a decision if they wanted to continue.

They decided to turn around and take the highway down the valley to Paarl. I wanted to explore the area, and also there was a second mountain pass later that I want to see. I made my way over Middleberg pass and into the Hexberg nature reserve in the valley on the other side. The pass was a mix of gravel and pavement with tight turns and sweeping views. Down in the valley, it opened up to a nice paved highway that led through beautiful orange groves. The fields of dark green leaves on the trees contrasted against the backdrop of grey stone mountains flanking each side of the valley.

I wasn’t feeling well and I stopped for a snack in Ceres. I sensed there was something brewing in my stomach, but I would ignore it for the rest of the day.

The last leg of the ride was up and over through Bainskloof pass which was wonderful. I zipped up the mountain, curious about the warning signs for baboons, and made my way into the park. The road through the pass was a very nice and newly paved road that hugged the hillside tightly around blind corners and sharp drop-offs.

I descended into Paarl and pulled into the hotel at the exact time as Mark and Ranee. It was a funny surprise. In the evening I became sick and stayed at the hotel nursing a stomach bug. I walked to the grocery store across the street to get some snacks and Mark brought me some ramen noodles later in the evening. I was weak, and rested all evening. I finally felt more stable by around 11:00pm and I slept fairly well that night. 
 

11 December - Paarl to Hermanus

I woke up feeling better. I had gotten over my stomach illness by midnight. The ride for the day was only 80 miles over Franschoek pass and descending into the wine country of the coast. We encountered many motorcyclists in groups on the north side of the pass. At one of the overlooks we chatted with a couple guys on a BMW 1200GS and a Yamaha XT660. They were from the area and we told them about our trip. On the way down to the coast we stopped at a nice bakery for a coffee and a bite to eat.

Andrea had arrived in Cape Town that morning and had already arrived in Hermanus. I was eager to get there and see her! We arrived at Hermanus around 12:00pm and Mark and Ranee peeled off to their hotel just across the street from ours.

I pulled into the courtyard of the hotel to find Andrea out on the back porch. I rolled up and gave her a big hug with all my gear on. I know she was so excited to see me, but the excitement was a little muted because she was just coming from 30 hours of air travel and a 10 hour time zone change. We took an afternoon siesta and then got ready for dinner with Mark and Ranee.

I was excited to drive the rental car because it was a right-hand drive stick-shift, which I had never done before. We had planned to have dinner with Mark and Ranee so we pulled out around 6:30 to pick them up. As expected there was a bit of a learning curve for me to get used to the car, and Andrea was a bit tense as a passenger. The moment I pulled out in traffic, I forgot to look the other direction, accidentally pulling out in front of two oncoming vehicles. They both swerved around us, but as luck would have it one of them was the police! We were both startled, and I was nervous that I would be in trouble. Sure enough, the police vehicle turned on their lights and made a u-turn in the street to catch up with us.

Meanwhile, Mark and Ranee were watching the whole thing from the sidewalk across the street where we were supposed to be picking them up. I was apologetic to the officer and told him I was a tourist from the US. He checked my license and was understanding about the whole thing. He said “You’re from the US?…Oh well that explains it!”. He proceeded, “please be careful and look both ways”. I politely agreed and we were on our way. We went to an Italian restaurant in downtown Hermanus and had a nice evening de-briefing about our trip with Andrea.
 

12 December - The End: Hermanus to Cape Agulhas

We convened at 9:00am for the final leg of the journey. It was a short 80 mile ride to Cape Agulhas. Andrea would meet us there in the car. The weather was blustery, rainy and cool but it we didn’t mind—we were on a mission, and only an hour and a half away from our final destination. The ride was over rural hills and a couple low mountain passes, eventually working its way down to the coastal town of L'Agulhas.

We arrived at the Cape Agulhas park, heading down the gravel road to the parking area for the southernmost point. The last 100 feet were slightly rocky leading down to a turn-around area. We pulled the bikes around and staged them with the ocean in the background so we could take a photo. 

It was a feeling of relief and great pride to stand there, at the very end of the African continent. I really couldn’t, and still can’t, believe that we did it. In hindsight it feels like it was very fast and easy, and I didn’t want it to end. I saw so much and met so many people only briefly, that I was hungry to see more. There were many nice motorcycle friends we made along the way that I would love to spend more time with. The other part of me was very satisfied and ready to re-join Andrea back home.