tn_kyle's Paris to Cape Town 2022
Follow this story by emailAfter 3 years of planning and Covid delays, we're setting off on an adventure down the west coast of Africa. The party consists of two motorcycles and 3 friends from USA. Let's see what happens! UPDATE: We made it! Read on to learn more!
Summary of Border Crossings (for those who came here for the logistical info):
(Trip dates 9/2022 until 12/2022). Scroll down for daily trip reports.
*for visa applications always carry extra copies of ID photos, passport data page, and vaccinations for the embassy.
European Union: No visa, stamp in and stamp out.
Morocco: No visa, stamp in on the ferry and customs inspection upon arrival in Morocco.
Mauritania: Visa required, obtained at Mauritania embassy in Rabat Morocco. Straightforward process and we received in 24 hours. Customs completed at border.
Senegal: No visa, stamp at border. Customs at border. Buy brown card insurance after you cross the border at your next destination. It's available at the border, but likely overpriced. Just find an insurance company or ask your hotel for directions. If you are traveling through West Africa, Brown Card will cover you in *most* countries east to Nigeria.
Guinea: Visa required, obtained an *entry visa* at Guinea embassy in Dakar Senegal. We did not get the visa decal for our passports(mandatory for exit). This may have been a mistake, you should ask for it. We had to go to the Ministry of Security later in Conakry Guinea to get our visa decal (not so easy). We used our Carnet de Passage for our vehicles at the border entry. Alternatively you may get a Passavant for your vehicle.
Cote d'Ivoire: Visa required, obtained at the Cote d'Ivoire embassy in Conakry Guinea. Obtained our visa and laissez-passer for the vehicles. Normally takes a few days, but we requested expedite and received in 24 hours.
Ghana: Visa required, obtained at Ghana embassy in Abidjan Cote d'Ivoire. Must fill out electronic paperwork and bring paper copies of application and documents to the embassy. Use the form on the Ghana Embassy-Cote d'Ivoire website. It will ask for local address and residency; just enter Cote d'Ivoire and enter the address of your local accommodations. As of 10/2022, you need exit authorization to leave Cote d'Ivoire. Must be requested at the Ministry of Interior in Abidjan. You will obtain the approval letter immediately, but it allegedly takes a few days for the approval to be communicated to the border post. So you must wait for a few days (4 business days) before you attempt to exit. We used our Carnet de Passage for our vehicles at the border.
Togo: Visa required, obtained at the Togolese embassy in Accra Ghana. Easy process, filled out a form, provided photos and paid the fee total $52 USD. Visa issued same day. Customs will process the vehicles at the border, fee ~$10USD.
Benin: Visa required. Must complete e-visa online. E-visa is emailed to you for printing. We received this within a couple hours of submittal. Present upon arrival at the border. Customs will issue a Laissez-Passer at the border for your vehicle, fee ~$9.00 USD.
Nigeria: Visa required with invitation letter from contact in Nigeria. Must complete the visa application online, then print and take to Nigeria embassy in Cotonou Benin. Their appointment system is not working, so we showed up at 9:30am. We were denied and directed to return at 11:30am for processing. Must pay an admin fee of ~$37 USD. Normally issued same day, but they were having technical issues and it will take a few days for us. We used our Carnet de Passage for our vehicles at the border.
Cameroon: Visa required. Application submitted at Cameroon embassy in Lagos Nigeria. Simple process but a very pricey (~$220 USD). Issued while we waited. Received a Passavant for the vehicles at the border. Purchased Pink Card insurance in Banyo that will cover us down to Republic of Congo. Not required but good to have.
Gabon: Visa required. Application submitted at Gabon embassy in Yaounde Cameroon. Quick process, requires printed copy of hotel reservation. Issued while we waited. (~$106 USD). We used our Carnet de Passage for our vehicles at the border.
Congo(Brazzaville): Visa required. Submitted at embassy in Yaounde. Basic docs needed, 2 photos, printed hotel reservation, vaccination (covid and yellow fever). Issued in 24 hours/express processing. (~$212 USD). We used our Carnet de Passage for our vehicles at the border.
Democratic Republic of Congo: Visa required. Submitted at embassy in Yaounde. If traveling south, you must get your Congo-Brazza visa first. No docs needed for us, but bring the usual docs just in case. Issued in 3 hours on a Friday afternoon (~$150 USD). We used our Carnet de Passage for our vehicles at the border.
Angola: Applied online, several docs required in specific digital format (you may want to review far ahead to prepare -- https://www.smevisa.gov.ao/) Approved within 24 hours. Bring paper copy to the border with other physical document copies and $120USD. Funds must be USD or else charged double in other currencies.
Namibia: No visa required. Quick border process, fill out a simple form and use a hotel address as "local address". Received an entry stamp. Customs paid 215RAND road tax (about $12USD). We used our Carnet de Passage.
South Africa: No visa required. Quick border process, just fill out a form and receive your stamp. It was the easiest entry we had. We used our Carnet de Passage for the bikes, which I understand is necessary if exporting the vehicle. However I am curious if you could export without a Carnet by getting a Police Clearance Certificate (PCC) It's required for locally registered vehicles to have a PCC to export.
SHIPPING of Motorcycle Home: Shipped the motorcycles home with EconoTrans from CapeTown to Vancouver BC. Pricing consistent with other quote I received. They have crating service on site and my drop-off experience was good. Currently in transit home. Alternative may be with Duncan at African Overlanders.
I have followed this with considerable interest. Well done and thanks for all the useful information.
I'm now doing detailed planning and gearing up for my own London-Cape Town trip, starting in mid August 2023.
I did a trial run in West Africa last November on a small local bike I rented in Togo. https://www.polarsteps.com/ChristopherAllsop2/6001251-togo-etc
I learned a lot from that. I reached the border of Côte d'Ivoire but didn't manage to get in. I had a visa and customs clearance, but I had been given duff information by the embassy in London about where and when I could get the necessary laissez-passer - all fixable if I had enough time.
So I turned back towards Nigeria (I hadn't planned to enter this time) where I got arrested for taking photos at the border - all sorted out with much good humour and back-slapping.
My route was: Togo, Ghana, Togo, Benin, Togo - with some excursions inland. 2,400km. One mishap: walking in Accra after dark, I fell into an open sewer and fractured my leg (fibula), but was able to continue.
I realised that my first-world sports tourer will not be the right bike for Africa. So I am looking for a light local-type bike with readily available spare parts and tyres. The kind that any kid on the street can fix.
Now deciding whether to take a UK-registered bike and go North to South. Or to buy a bike in Cape Town, come South to North and pay duty and VAT to import it into the UK. That's more complicated than it sounds though.
Has anyone without South African residency successfully bought and registered a bike there?