• Kyle
    Emerson
Vehicle Type
Motorcycle

tn_kyle's Paris to Cape Town 2022

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After 3 years of planning and Covid delays, we're setting off on an adventure down the west coast of Africa. The party consists of two motorcycles and 3 friends from USA. Let's see what happens! UPDATE: We made it! Read on to learn more!

Summary of Border Crossings (for those who came here for the logistical info):
(Trip dates 9/2022 until 12/2022). Scroll down for daily trip reports.

*for visa applications always carry extra copies of ID photos, passport data page, and vaccinations for the embassy. 

European Union: No visa, stamp in and stamp out.
Morocco: No visa, stamp in on the ferry and customs inspection upon arrival in Morocco.
Mauritania: Visa required, obtained at Mauritania embassy in Rabat Morocco. Straightforward process and we received in 24 hours. Customs completed at border.
Senegal: No visa, stamp at border. Customs at border. Buy brown card insurance after you cross the border at your next destination. It's available at the border, but likely overpriced. Just find an insurance company or ask your hotel for directions. If you are traveling through West Africa, Brown Card will cover you in *most* countries east to Nigeria.
Guinea: Visa required, obtained an *entry visa* at Guinea embassy in Dakar Senegal. We did not get the visa decal for our passports(mandatory for exit). This may have been a mistake, you should ask for it. We had to go to the Ministry of Security later in Conakry Guinea to get our visa decal (not so easy). We used our Carnet de Passage for our vehicles at the border entry. Alternatively you may get a Passavant for your vehicle. 
Cote d'Ivoire: Visa required, obtained at the Cote d'Ivoire embassy in Conakry Guinea. Obtained our visa and laissez-passer for the vehicles. Normally takes a few days, but we requested expedite and received in 24 hours. 
Ghana: Visa required, obtained at Ghana embassy in Abidjan Cote d'Ivoire. Must fill out electronic paperwork and bring paper copies of application and documents to the embassy. Use the form on the Ghana Embassy-Cote d'Ivoire website. It will ask for local address and residency; just enter Cote d'Ivoire and enter the address of your local accommodations. As of 10/2022, you need exit authorization to leave Cote d'Ivoire. Must be requested at the Ministry of Interior in Abidjan. You will obtain the approval letter immediately, but it allegedly takes a few days for the approval to be communicated to the border post. So you must wait for a few days (4 business days) before you attempt to exit. We used our Carnet de Passage for our vehicles at the border.
Togo: Visa required, obtained at the Togolese embassy in Accra Ghana. Easy process, filled out a form, provided photos and paid the fee total $52 USD. Visa issued same day. Customs will process the vehicles at the border, fee ~$10USD.
Benin: Visa required. Must complete e-visa online. E-visa is emailed to you for printing. We received this within a couple hours of submittal. Present upon arrival at the border. Customs will issue a Laissez-Passer at the border for your vehicle, fee ~$9.00 USD.
Nigeria: Visa required with invitation letter from contact in Nigeria. Must complete the visa application online, then print and take to Nigeria embassy in Cotonou Benin. Their appointment system is not working, so we showed up at 9:30am. We were denied and directed to return at 11:30am for processing. Must pay an admin fee of ~$37 USD. Normally issued same day, but they were having technical issues and it will take a few days for us. We used our Carnet de Passage for our vehicles at the border.
Cameroon: Visa required. Application submitted at Cameroon embassy in Lagos Nigeria. Simple process but a very pricey (~$220 USD). Issued while we waited. Received a Passavant for the vehicles at the border. Purchased Pink Card insurance in Banyo that will cover us down to Republic of Congo. Not required but good to have.
Gabon: Visa required. Application submitted at Gabon embassy in Yaounde Cameroon. Quick process, requires printed copy of hotel reservation. Issued while we waited. (~$106 USD). We used our Carnet de Passage for our vehicles at the border.
Congo(Brazzaville): Visa required. Submitted at embassy in Yaounde. Basic docs needed, 2 photos, printed hotel reservation, vaccination (covid and yellow fever). Issued in 24 hours/express processing. (~$212 USD). We used our Carnet de Passage for our vehicles at the border.
Democratic Republic of Congo: Visa required. Submitted at embassy in Yaounde. If traveling south, you must get your Congo-Brazza visa first. No docs needed for us, but bring the usual docs just in case. Issued in 3 hours on a Friday afternoon (~$150 USD). We used our Carnet de Passage for our vehicles at the border.
Angola: Applied online, several docs required in specific digital format (you may want to review far ahead to prepare -- https://www.smevisa.gov.ao/) Approved within 24 hours. Bring paper copy to the border with other physical document copies and $120USD. Funds must be USD or else charged double in other currencies. 
Namibia: No visa required. Quick border process, fill out a simple form and use a hotel address as "local address". Received an entry stamp. Customs paid 215RAND road tax (about $12USD). We used our Carnet de Passage.
South Africa: No visa required. Quick border process, just fill out a form and receive your stamp. It was the easiest entry we had. We used our Carnet de Passage for the bikes, which I understand is necessary if exporting the vehicle. However I am curious if you could export without a Carnet by getting a Police Clearance Certificate (PCC) It's required for locally registered vehicles to have a PCC to export.  
SHIPPING of Motorcycle Home: Shipped the motorcycles home with EconoTrans from CapeTown to Vancouver BC. Pricing consistent with other quote I received. They have crating service on site and my drop-off experience was good. Currently in transit home. Alternative may be with Duncan at African Overlanders. 

Story begins
18 Aug 2022
Visiting

Updates

Day -37: Getting closer!
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Testing out this blog as it's new for me.

Closing in on 4 weeks from departure. I believe that I'm set on gear, shots, flights and insurance. At this time I still need to book a plane ticket for the motorcycle and prepare a document folio to carry on the bike. I'm planning to go ahead and make visa photos and ID photocopies to have at the ready so I can possibly save some time on the road. 

Day -29: Update
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Things are coming together. I have received confirmation that my bike now has a plane ticket booked on the same plane with me! Still sorting out photocopies and map paperwork. I'm attempting to make a map printout of the trip using from Google Maps but it's a bit tedious. Just a rough guide on paper. We'll not necessarily follow the same route, but it will be good to have if needed. If anyone knows how to do so, let me know. Otherwise I'll let you know what I come up with. 

Day -9: All booked
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The motorcycle plane ticket has been booked and paid, as well as the Carnet and EU green card insurance. I've booked a hotel next to the airport in Paris so I will have a place to land when I arrive. Receiving of the bike will reportedly take only a couple hours. Fingers crossed. I have detailed directions of what to do in Paris from my stateside agent, Motorcycle Express. So far the experience with them has been excellent. 

Day 1: On the Road!

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I’ve been quite anxious in the last few days leading up to the trip despite my calm demeanor. The goodbyes and the going away parties are not as comforting as they should be. Everyone wishes us well, but my stomach hears people saying “I hope you make it back”. You begin to question the reason you’re doing this and if it is in fact crazy as many comically suggest.

Day 9: Southern Germany
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21 August - Heidelberg Camp Rest Day

Slept nicely in the tent overnight because the temperature was perfect around 60 degrees. I felt like sleeping in and I had to make myself get up at 7:00am. Free coffee and a light breakfast consisting of cold cuts, breads, jellies, yogurt and hard boiled eggs. The hard boiled eggs were multicolored like Easter eggs and apparently they come from the local store that way.

Day 14: Germany to Andorra
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24 Aug - Inzlingen Germany to somewhere in France

We get rolling around 9:30, and the route has us entering Switzerland. We were there for approximately one mile before we were back to Germany! The signage and license plates on vehicles were Swiss, but otherwise you wouldn’t have realized you had crossed a border.

Day 22: To Morocco!
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1 September - Alicante to Almeria

We met at breakfast to make a plan. Mark and Ranee explained their hotel dinner restaurant saga which consisted of 3 prawns and other unexpectedly small amounts of food for lots of money. Quite funny.

The ride that day was quite nice, upper 80s with low humidity. The roads were a mixture of highway miles and farm roads in the second half of the day.

Day 27: Rabat, Meknes, Merzouga
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8 September - Rabat to Meknes

We slept in until our 8:00am breakfast and then hatched a plan for the day. Our only constraint was that we had to wait until 2:00pm to pick up our Mauritania visa. The original plan was to go to Fes that day, but I decided that we could only make it to Meknes.

Day 38: Western Sahara to Mauritania
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19 September - Boujdour to Dakhla

We woke from another night of distracted sleeping to pack our things. I actually slept pretty good, but Mark and Ranee apparently experienced a lot of outside sounds that were quite distracting through the night. We were eager to leave, as it was one of the dirtiest places we’ve stayed up to this point.

Day 48: Senegal to Guinea
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29 September - Tambacounda Rest Day

Ranee had been having some stomach trouble the previous day, and it persisted until the morning. Looking ahead, our accommodations were not going to be any better for a few days so I suggested it is best to stay here if necessary. Our hotel was nice so it was a good idea. We rested and took it easy.

Day 83: Benin, Nigeria, Cameroon
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26 October - Cotonou Day 2

We got up and had breakfast on the rooftop at the hotel and had a leisurely morning. The only commitment that I had was to deliver our travel itinerary to the Nigerian embassy. I took off around 11:00 to go there and deliver the papers. She accepted the papers and confirmed that the visas would all be ready around 10:00am on Friday.

Day 109: Angola
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26 November - Matadi to Tomboco Wild Camp1

We rolled out of the hotel around 8:00 and were at the border post quickly. It’s located just on the outside of town. It took a while to get our papers processed on both sides, but the officials were helpful and courteous. I did some grocery shopping from street vendors while we waited. I got some bread, fruit and snacks for lunch.

Day 119: Namibia and South Africa (The End!)
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Comments

I have followed this with considerable interest. Well done and thanks for all the useful information.

I'm now doing detailed planning and gearing up for my own London-Cape Town trip, starting in mid August 2023. 

I did a trial run in West Africa last November on a small local bike I rented in Togo. https://www.polarsteps.com/ChristopherAllsop2/6001251-togo-etc
I learned a lot from that. I reached the border of Côte d'Ivoire but didn't manage to get in. I had a visa and customs clearance, but I had been given duff information by the embassy in London about where and when I could get the necessary laissez-passer - all fixable if I had enough time.

So I turned back towards Nigeria (I hadn't planned to enter this time) where I got arrested for taking photos at the border - all sorted out with much good humour and back-slapping. 

My route was: Togo, Ghana, Togo, Benin, Togo - with some excursions inland. 2,400km. One mishap: walking in Accra after dark, I fell into an open sewer and fractured my leg (fibula), but was able to continue.

I realised that my first-world sports tourer will not be the right bike for Africa. So I am looking for a light local-type bike with readily available spare parts and tyres. The kind that any kid on the street can fix. 

Now deciding whether to take a UK-registered bike and go North to South. Or to buy a bike in Cape Town, come South to North and pay duty and VAT to import it into the UK. That's more complicated than it sounds though.

Has anyone without South African residency successfully bought and registered a bike there?