0 kms

Checking the tyre in the morning it had lost a third of its pressure so clearly not easily fixed.

Unfortunately that wasn't the only of our worries. I noticed a gaping slash in the right hand pannier. The left hand one developed a crack in the weld in one place a little while ago, but not too concerning, something to be fixed as and when, but the right hand one had a 6 inch long opening about 5mm wide in centre on a joint. Oh dear !I have to say I was expecting some problems as it's asking a lot of hard luggage, never mind the bike and riders, to survive the rigours of the repio and all the previously documented hardships. We have seen plenty of folks who have had their panniers repaired and welded not due to crashing, but due to fatigue on the mounting points etc. I don't hold this against the panniers as they would never suffer these problems in anything like normal conditions...this is exceptional wear.

So, not only a puncture still needing fixing, but also a pannier in need of tender loving care, bugger.

I re-plugged the tyre and the seal was better though not fully sorted. Still better to use that than change to a slightly mismatched and not road biased motocross tyre we have as spare. If worst comes to worst we can attempt a change at roadside, but putting some more air in at roadside is easier in short term.

The pannier was more of an issue. There are some mechanics in town (well village) but realistically not much hope of an aluminium welder here. We chased up an option but it was clear it was a no go so emergency measures required.

There are about enough small stores to be one for each ten residents it would seem, but they all look like nothing from outside, you have to investigate inside.

One we went in was an Aladdin’s cave of bits and pieces other than the standard fare. This is a very small place, only 500 folk, and has a fairly modern history as set up by four German families in late thirties (common thread) and descendants still run a world-wide successful carpet weaving business here (very small of course). Anyway, my hope of finding any useful repair materials were surprisingly better than expected. They had duct tape, and some puncture repair glue. I bought both.

The glue was for the other cracks i had seen developing (that pannier is the one the bike has fallen on three times, not crashed, but the weight of a fall alone would not be inconsiderable) and the tape for an attempt at reinforcement and temporary (unless very lucky) patching up.

Pannier repairs

We spent some time making the best we could of that and using some of the extra straps I had brought for just such an instance to try and secure everything as much as possible.

Wing and a prayer I guess. We both want to at least get to the end of the Careterra Austral as it has taken it's toll on us and we feel we can't give up before seeing the job done. After that we could avoid off-road if necessary I guess.

Puerto Mont is not too far away (who are we kidding on these roads) and we may be able to get a repair with some doubling up of material or something, else we are likely to have to give up on the repio options as they will surely destroy what we have left. That would be a very sad day, because though we bemoan the repio, it has taken us to the most wondrous locations, and we've had the best of adventures that you wouldn't get on easy access. It will be a real shame to have to change our plans so substantially. It may become a reality we can not escape.

We had a fair bit of time on our hands so now know the village fairly well. Once again everyone speaks...well, with 500 people that's not a surprise, but even children pass greetings. These places we love, you aren't lost in crowds ever. Anyway we outdid the possibilities on the walk front, but the one to the village panorama was especially nice.

We followed a marked path (coloured posts) for 45 minutes and gained enough height to get a great view over the village and surrounding scenery, it really is small. There were some interesting birds on route, one with the most incredibly loud voice, making you think it was some monster of size. When we eventually saw it in the scrubs it was like a giant wren - if that isn't a daft thing to say. It looked just like a wren in overall proportion excepting being the size of a thrush. It had a red breast with vivid striped blue bars below and the voice was simply startling in loudness for something so small. Another small finch type bird had a white Mohican with black either side, quite nice too.

Puyuhaupi from village viewpoint

The walk was well worthwhile, and surprisingly warm and muggy. It's a strange old area all round, giant plants, bamboo and snow capped peaks.

We opted for food at the place and weren't disappointed. Same food as family had later, only we had four times as much meat! As these places are so isolated the bread is often home made, and that's a treat! Obviously Chile is famed for its wines, and that is another pleasure we can endure.

Before finally crashing out we had a quick peak outside and the night sky was exceptional, so clear, and stars more than we've seen for years, probably since being in the Himalaya's a few years ago, outstanding..very little light pollution, and high mountains on all sides bar that to sea.

Saturday 28th January 2006

Puyuguan

24 kms (and a few by car !)

Well a day of contrasts for sure, whether wanted or not.

Twas a bit of a grey day, but looked like rain might stay at bay so the plan was to go for a walk. There were two (or more) reasonably local, one was 24kms away and one 12. As I wasn't too sure about the tyre repair we went for the closer one, the further one was to a hanging glacier that would have been spectacular, but decided on one though woods as the forests here are quite well known for their temperate jungle nature and would be worth seeing from a perspective other than the verge.

On the way out of town the bicycle speedo mount fractured and fell apart, another victim of the repio. I brought a spare as the BMW speedo failed years ago and is a problem area so I always rely on a cycle speedo now.

We rode out to the start point and were able to leave the bike parked at the park guards house while we went walking. The walk was described as 5000m and 3 hrs to Lago de Pumas. Couldn't figure out if that was 5hrs return or one way, and couldn't get an answer there- saw a map, but nothing available to take, the one of the wall was hopeless anyway.

A car had pulled up and the lad had tried to explain a motorcyclist had had an accident and were we his friends? Obviously not, but we thought we better go and have a look, at the point we were to leave, a New Zealander appeared, he who had crashed, flipped the bike but little damage to him or the bike luckily so we could continue as he was well, grateful that we were concerned enough to be about to leave to seek him out.

The walk was a cleared trail that ascended quite sharply from the outset. There were steps created to ease the ascent, but still it was pretty hard going and the air was fair claggy in the dense trees and undergrowth. The main plant species were large possibly Alecia trees and gunnera and bamboo and ferns. You would be completely lost and disorientated if you were to hack off through with a machete, not a hope of knowing were you were. Strange to be in zone like that here.

Dragonfly

Jungle Shrew

Temporate jungle and Glory Vine

As we climbed it cooled a little, but was still very enclosed. We saw a Humming bird, which are quite common, a Little Owl, and one or two bright little things that were so unaccustomed to humans they would hop along branches and boughs towards us. The trees were thick with moss and occasional flowers such as the aptly (here at least) named Chilean Glory Vine and some type of jasmine. There were insects aplenty from brightly coloured metallic beetles to some butterflies and dragonflies. Obviously nothing to compare to real jungle, but impressive none the less

We were obviously never going to get to a point that would be the end of the trail so after three hours turned. It must have been three hours each way and we were slow, but no problem, we had seen the inside of the amazing forest that otherwise we would not have seen.

Unfortunately as we were returning the weather changed and it started to rain which was a bit uncalled for. We returned to the bike, and though the front tyre was a little low, no worse than previous, we set off back carefully.

We had got to within about 4kms of the village when I noticed, even in the rain and slime, that the bike was a bit loose. One of the unavoidable potholes had knocked a fair bit of air out of the tyre, it was flat.

Oh well, could inflate and continue, but oh no, it was off the bead, and as I tried to turn it, you guessed, the bike went over again! Without Bev on fortunately, but that's about the forth time....stationary.....bummer

The tyre was well down and it was fairly obvious it was time for the replacement and tube. We had taken it with us just in case. Oh well.

It was still raining and I wasn't looking forward to dealing with the difficulties of fitting the tube to a tubeless rim, well known for difficulties.

So there as nothing for it, rain or no rain, we may as well get on with the task whatever. Could possibly have pushed the 4kms to town but seeing as tyre was off the bead there was no way of getting air into it hence not really an option.

Managed to get the old tyre off OK just using the 6" BMW tyre levers. The new tyre went on OK with them too for the first side, but the problem is getting it beaded anyway, had to get tube etc in. That was enough of a difficulty to start with, once in there was the challenge of getting the rest of the tyre on. Now that was a struggle, a major one. Had to break out the 18" lever that was stowed in the spine of the frame. Even though that was much easier, it was still a hell of a job to get the last bit on. And once that was achieved there was the matter of the fact about a quarter of the perimeter of the bead on one side wasn't seated in the right place on the rim.

Oh bugger!

That's where a compressor comes in handy, but not the sort of thing you carry on a bike, or a car, maybe a truck, but basically a garage job.

As it was we had to try with the small bicycle pump I brought which was simply not up to the task. Tried all sorts but without success.

Knew there was a mechanic in town so had to flag down a vehicle to get a lift there. In the time we'd been there 4 or 5 vehicles passed, but the only one to stop was a French Landie and at that stage we were just starting the job so said they may as well carry on.

We were in luck with the vehicle we flagged down, a local pickup with a nice guy in who was on his way to town to drop his wife and kids off. I had to leave Bev with the bike, and I jumped in the back with the wheel in hope I could blag a lift with someone else back in a relatively short time.

Our rescuer knew the mechanic, the one round the corner from our spot in town, and it turned out he was the local Gomeria (tyre repair shop)

After some completely hopeless discussions on my part we got it understood that I had a tube in but not fitted well. All this time the guy with the pickup stayed around to give me a lift back which was so kind. The mechanic wisely decided to check the tyre and tube and of course with good reason.

Though I had tried my best I had twisted the tube and nipped it too, so it was punctured. I'd tried so hard not to damage the tube, but it's very difficult - think I’ll stick to my pushbike puncture repairs, much simpler.

Anyway it became quite obvious I had done a completely lousy job as more punctures, caused by nipping tube I imagine, were revealed. Four in all so quite a disaster. Lucky we weren't really in the middle of no-where. The guy soon had them all patched and the tyre and tube on again without all the errors I had so easily compiled (I guess he's done it a few times before mind). A bit of air from the compressor and the bead popped onto the rim properly and we were in business.

All this took probably an hour, our rescuer hung around to return me with no complaint, and the mechanic charged 3000 say £3. Bev had the money though so he was trusting enough that I'd return in a bit.

Off we set back up the road and back to Bev who had been having a rather dull time waiting for our return. No one had stopped whilst she'd been there by herself either (all of three vehicles anyway). Our rescuer refused all offers of some cash for a beer or similar but did accept one of Bevs cigarettes. What a really nice guy. I guess he was of Mapuche origin as different features and colour to the more western general Chileans. The Mapuche were one of the few indigeous tribes to hold out against the Spanish originally, and their culture is still a proud one today with many celebrations of their handiwork, particularly timber buildings etc still prevalent.

So it was now 9pm and we were a bit damp and in need of food. By the time we got back to the Hosteleria it was late and we asked if there was any possibility of food and they said they could do spaghetti or similar. Here folk eat later than Britain, but earlier than Argentina, we'd have just been in time for food there at 10pm!

So a hot shower and a huge portion of food was just what we needed. With a couple of bottles of excellent Chilean wine we were soon sorted and completely knackered.

Come 11.30 at night, as last night, would you believe some people have just arrive looking for a room. Bloody typical another night with folks arriving creating noise until some godforsaken hour just when you thought you'd get a nice quiet night. The rooms here are all assembled out of hardboard etc and there isn't too much noise insulation. Double bugger. that’s the price you pay for having a room a quarter the price of the other posher places hereabouts I guess, we can accept that.

Sunday 29th January 2006

Puyuguan

0 kms

Well after all yesterdays crises we thought we'd stay put today and chill out.

Had to glue my cycle computer back together in hope it'll last, last ditch before replacement with other one. Marvellous thing the humble cycle computer.

Tyre seems OK so should be off tomorrow, will take the old one with us too just in case, it would probably go back on with a tube in it easier than the MX one on at moment. It'll be an interesting ride with that tyre on as it's slightly narrower than what's come off, and much more knobbly. It'll be interesting on the repio, never mind the roads. The plan will be to change it ASAP anyway, hopefully in a few days maximum.

Would be nice to bump into some fellow bikers now for a bit of social, I wonder where Peter and Martina, Andy and Maya, and Martin and Silvia are now. They could be just down the road from here for all we know.

Bev carried out the exciting task of hand washing half our gear in a bowl and out to dry it out. The forecast I heard was not too good today, but better Monday, so let's hope that's true.

There are two computers in the tourist information, but not connected to internet, and nowhere we asked (couple of hotels) were willing to let us pay to use theirs which is a shame too.

Monday 30th January 2006

Puyuhaupi - Chaiten

220 kms

The weather was glorious, the road not. I’m a bit tired of ranting about the diabolical state of the Careterra Austral, and it was as bad as ever so I'll keep the rant short. Today’s highlight was the re-graded section that allowed cars to speed gloriously and characteristically arrogantly towards us, but left us at a miserable 20kph maximum, and I mean maximum.

So that was more of the same. The motocross tyre never really came into it's 'stone-eater' mode as emblazoned on the sidewall. It was akin to riding with one of the wheeled serrated edged pizza cutters in place of the front wheel, not entirely inspiring my confidence, but on the occasions we wandered towards the verge where the loose stuff was the knobbles on the outside edge brought us back were the worn tire would have ploughed off further and I guess had us off.

Another ***** days riding I'm afraid, truly grim, the views were of course good, though we are getting a little overloaded on glaciers, forests, stunning coloured rivers and magnificent peaks. Sad state of affairs isn't it, but I'm honest.

Hanging glacier by road

The contrast from the Ruta 40 to the Careterra Austral couldn't be more opposed driver wise. It’s also interesting the more affluent the country and therefore the vehicles, the more arrogant the driving. Not enjoying this section really, the scenery is stunning the people (locally) very nice, the Chilean tourists nice once the ice is broken, breakfast seems better than dinner for some reason.

We met Uli a German biker on the road and stopped for half an hours chat, the vehicles passing by even slowed by 1mph occasionally. He was widely travelled and a really nice guy. On a similar machine, same year, but a bit more tricked out. He, like so many others, was very respectful for the fact we are ridding two up. There's no two ways about it, it is far more than twice as hard...not that I'd swap it for anything of course. It's nice to meet people on the road, and we always try to stop and catch up if we can, occasionally the opportunity doesn't arise, but generally both parties slow and pull up to chat.

So now we are in the (surprisingly small) town of Chaiten were there are ferry possibilities to Chiloe Island or Puerto Mont, or you can continue the road to its finish (or start)

Naturally enough, you'd expect us to jump ship (inversely) and take the ferry. The truth is this bloody road has been so flaming difficult we both want to finish what we started. Sort of a shame we didn't go to the opposite end at O'Higgins, but it was at a bad time after a difficult crossing to Cochrane, so at least we should continue the route rather than abandon now.

Our thoughts for the future are a little confused.

We wanted to see Peru and Bolivia, but not in a ‘this is Wednesday so this must be La Paz’ manner, but it's so far away we're not sure we can do either country justice. The other issue is we have to return to BA for our return flight and shipping and if you look at a map it's a long way south from either of those countries. To add to it, that area for return is not the best passage as Bolivia has very little sealed roads.

At the same time I don't think we want to spend a huge amount of time in Chile as it hasn't grown on us like Argentina, or even Uruguay or Paraguay did.

One option would be to head back into Argentina, then return to Paraguay and Uruguay and some of Brazil. There are many considerations, it's going to be hot hot hot in those countries if it weren't hot enough in northern Chile and Peru now, we're close to mid-summer here I guess.

Still, you're all close to mid-winter so won't be so concerned by our difficulties. Watch this space.