It's been a while since update. For a few reasons, not that we're in jail I'm pleased to say (sorry you will be seeing us again). We had a stop with no internet followed by two days of mileage crunching and your author is suffering a severe attack of stomach upset. All combined leading to no updates.....and after such a cliff hanger ending to last mail eh.....what a tease!0 kms

Well I'll out you out of your misery re : that cliff hanger ending to the last entry.

We had to be back at court at 3.30 to see the judge again and resolve the assault charge placed against us all (the eight of us you'll remember!)

Jeff was suited, but the rest of us had only what we had. We were only sat in front of the JP in a room, not a proper court or anything. Our drunk driver and passenger looked considerable less jolly and smug today without the benefit of alcohol and fortunately had seen the error of their ways. Couldn't imagine they wouldn't to be honest.

They were dropping all charges and were apologetic for their behaviour. The case notes acknowledged that they had endangered our lives and that they had been stupid. With that we were all happy, only Jeff could have taken anything further as we all needed to leave.

The driver would be done for being drunk, but not sure what sort of penalty that carries here, I guess a slapped wrist and a fine, but nothing more. It was surprising to here he was a restaurant owner, and the passenger was a sculpture ! Both were in their twenties which staggered all of us as we thought late thirties.

The whole business had been a strange one, but not one I regret. It's all part of the adventure and I don't think any less of Peru or its people based on this incident.

It was quite interesting seeing how the police and legal system works in a minor way and how it didn't all go pear shaped like you'd perhaps think. Before we came to South America I probably guess we'd have all ended in jail overnight before any attempt at resolving the case even started, innocent or guilty.

I have no idea if the culprits used any back handers or not to extricate themselves, but we were all happy just to be on our way, and of course still alive after their ridiculous antics.

A brief celebratory drink was enjoyed at the outcome. An interesting experience, but not one we wish to repeat. Our names and a fingerprint are now filed away, but not electronically and I'd challenge anyone to find those bits of paper after a year from now.

We're innocent and free ! (But so are the guilty but they may have some aches and pains which they at least deserve)

Its one month til our return flight to the UK, and the adventure keeps coming!

Saturday 18th March 2006

Cusco - Puquio

528 kms

As our planned early night was not as early as anticipated ,well what do you expect when you're judged not guilty, we were not off until around 9.30

Today was likely to be a long day as the route to Nasca must be nigh on impossible in one hit due to the nature of the road. Everyone we had spoken to has had to split the journey. The roads we were told are twisty beyond belief combined with two high passes over 4000m and the weather is unpredictable.

To add to that difficulty there are few places to stop along the way. We had picked up a recommendation for an average place, the Plaza hotel in the halfway town of Chalhaunca. Jeff had recommended the town we are staying in as being better, provided you have the time to get there. In fact just this morning a Japanese biker was saying he'd taken three days from Nasca to Cusco, so it is quite a journey by all accounts.

Anyway we left with good weather and were lucky that Jeff’s ride the other day took us past the junction we needed so it was a simple task to ride out of Cusco and be on our way. We were even able to top up with 90 octane at the same petrol station too.

Leaving the area we passed through scenery very reminiscent of alpine scenery in Europe. The initial stretches were fairly straight and easy to cover ground. It was nice to see kids at the side of the road waving to us once again.

Then the road started to climb and the curves began, at first fine, but by the time we were descending towards Abancay they had become quite tortuous and called for much respect. Some tightened suddenly, others were fine sweepers. Quite apart from the curves there were many hidden obstacles. It seems the locals drive the cows, donkeys and sheep up the verge, but don't mind if they're in middle of road either. Dogs once again became a nuisance but one was stupid enough to get very close and my boot made a satisfying contact so perhaps he won't be doing that again, lesson learned I hope. It was a blessing that there was little traffic on the road, in fact negligible. Don't know if Saturday makes a difference, but a few trucks and buses and hardly any cars. In fact so lightly trafficked to make you wonder why the built it recently.

The very twisty road between Cusco - Puquio

Normally a twisty road would be a blessing on a bike, but this one twists and turns for so long it almost becomes a bind. My head was almost dizzy a couple of times. The concentration is heightened on twisty roads like these and considering the length of time we were riding this section it must be tiring on the mind. Imagine the twistiest alpine road, then imagine riding it for say 4 hours, quite something.

Entering Abancay was as normal, you sail in on a good road, end up in awful potholed local streets and have no idea how to get out again. It's a mystery why they don't use road signs over here, always the same. Best thing is stop and ask, which we do, and then you find the way. This place was quite a big town but seemed pretty isolated, and certainly not somewhere I'd expect to spend any time, a right dump really.

After yet more winding roads we were in a valley floor that we followed for some way that was in very good condition generally allowing for good progress. The only problems were occasional landslips that narrowed the road unexpectedly (no signs you see) or storm drains that crossed the road with various amounts of debris.

One particular was a bit nasty as it was round a blind bend and running with water and piles of gravel and sand and stones blocking the way. A sudden haul of the brakes brought into effect the anti lock mechanism.....oh no....that was me....and we were lucky with that one. A very unpleasant surprise which lead to more caution thereafter. I've heard of a few folk coming to grief on this road and it's easy to see why, its demands respect.

Now we were getting into buggersallville, very remote with just small isolated communities. The kids were great, running and jumping and waving. I guess they get quite a few bikes through here, and enjoy the welcome.

The weather had looked like breaking, but it just rained a little then stopped so we continued. We reached Chalhuanca just before three. We had the option to stay here, or continue. As it was 217kms to the next possible stop we weighed up the time and the weather and decided to get the next bit done too. If we'd stayed and the weather changed tomorrow we'd have a longer day in poor conditions. Due to the vagaries of the different time zones in different countries we seem to have lost hours as here it gets dark at just 6pm which is ludicrous !

The next section would take us up to 4300m and across a high plateau before descending to our destination.

The climb up was quite labored but well engineered and we were soon up around 4000m. The scenery was a bit weird as it was like a combination of Rannoch Moor and the high dales, but on steroids. There was a lot of it too, ran for tens of miles. There were several little llama herding hamlets about, which must be godforsaken places as no sign of heating, and no timber anywhere for miles. A damn hard existence!

Near to the high point of that stage we could see off to our left a huge gathering storm. Oh dear! It looked like we would avoid it, but needless to say within a further few miles the road was angling that way...looked like we were in trouble.

Being at over 4000m it was already bleeding cold and so the sight of a thunder, lightening and hail storm only a kilometer away was a good excuse to pull out the winter gloves and don full waterproofs.

That accomplished we were off straight into the storm. To be honest I was a bit apprehensive as a storm at this altitude could lead to all sorts of difficulties and even heavy snow that might leave us stranded which would certainly be no fun.

We rode straight into the jaws of it and were pelted with rain, and then the hail, not pleasant. Can't imagine what it would be like for a cyclist, guess you'd just stop and camp.

As luck would have it we were climbing the side of the valley and avoided most of it, only got 15 minutes worth, yet further to the other side was white over with hail. Lucky.

The plateau continued for some distance more, bleak cold and inhospitable. The descent was worse, fog, the second time in the day, but this time not due to hitting a warmer area, just cold fog. It was a slow process continuing down, even though only 30kms to go it took forever. Fog is crap on a bike, your glasses mist up, the visor mists up, and you end up ridding with visor open and no eye protection which is uncomfortable and difficult.

Finally Puguin loomed into view and looked quite sizable. In the way it does, the reasonable road disappeared and we gradually rode into streets unmade and layered in mud and slime. What a godforsaken place this looked. There were even side streets that were so bad I don't think we could have ridden on them, it was for all the world like a scene out of a prospectors town in the Wild West. Unbelievable. And sadly too wet for many pictures!

Puquio town centre, note river running down high street

It wasn't looking good for finding a nice posh hotel, and that was no surprise. I even had to check we were in the right town....we were. The locals said there was a hotel just round the corner, and indeed there was, well, a hostel. To be honest the Hostel Andes is not too bad, it's more the surrounding everything else that is lacking.

We went for a stroll around, it got dark within minutes of us arriving. Thank god we hadn't been later. The town looks no worse for being in fog and pouring rain, I'm sure on a sunny day it would look dire!

We found an internet cafe to mail Martin and Alan who were supposed to be on there way here, but they had enjoyed a rather too festive Saint Patrick’s Day (there were two Irish bars - no Irish - in Cusco) and not set out today. They are hoping to get from Cusco to Nasca in one day but that might be optimistic. We should meet them before we leave Nasca at least.

Dinner was not looking good as the only restaurant was full of kids watching TV and nobody eating, so we choose a fast food chicken place. It was OK but not too sophisticated shall we say. Still half cooked chips, an untouched salad, and half a chicken each which was good only cost under £2 I suppose.

We bought a Porto style wine for 30p to take back, it was good we poured it straight down the sink ! And that is a rarity I can assure you.

The other characteristic thing here is folk either speak and say hello, or are just open jawed amazed at the sight of the two of us wandering around in our bike gear. No point changing as you can see your breath and we'll be up and out without any sight seeing I think!

Some people were down right rude in their stopping and staring, or even coming back to stare again. The only time on this trip that South America has seemed third world. In fact, in some places today I would say it would be easy to think some of the folk might be less than friendly, as if this area was a stronghold of the Shining Path a few years ago, maybe was. I was reading in the political history of Peru that only 2 or 3 years ago a major near Puno was lynched by a mob for supposed corruption so I guess this is not the most progressive of places. Still, most folk are outwardly friendly and that's the picture we have most of the time.

Though our room is good enough, the tracing paper thin windows aren't so good at keeping the truck and bus noises at bay, and we are cold enough to be sleeping in T Shirts and socks. You wait, once we get to Nasca we'll be complaining about the heat!

Although blessed with general good health on this trip I seem to have developed a broken blood vessel in one of my eyes that looks a bit evil. Hopefully it will resolve itself, and maybe being at a lower altitude will help.

We must have been at high altitude now - above 3000 - for two or three weeks, think it'll be nice to be lower down once again.

Sunday 19th March 2006

Puquio - Nasca

200 something kms

It was good to leave our abode, as all night we'd had buses outside creating noise as they picked up passengers and departed, but had a surprisingly good night’s kip. There was no breakfast with the room and nowhere immediately nearby so we left dog town. Grim old spot really altogether. Petrol and some water and the ride to Nasca was all we had ahead.

The road was still sheathed in mist and fog and it was hard going. A few loony moments with two vehicles looming out of the fog directly in front of us to add to the general feeling of danger

The road was in poor shape with pot holes all over the place and hard to avoid in the limited visibility. Unfortunately the road took its toll and the panniers have split down the repair we had done in Porto Montt. Very disappointing as we don't really have time now to start looking around for repairs. We'll continue with duct tape slapped all over and hope it doesn't get any worse, or that we hit any torrential rain. Fingers crossed. So much for the costly repairs !

The road was just as twisty as previous and went over another 4000m+ pass. The scenery up there was weird as so much like the dales or Rannoch Moor again. At least we didn't get any real rain.

It wasn't until the last 30kms odd into Nasca that the temperatures heated up, but boy did they, immediately to about 35 and humid with it, such a change. And yes, we're now complaining about the heat!

Just before Nasca

We took a ride out north a way until the viewing tower from which you can see a very limited amount of the lines. What's clearer seen is the fact the Pan America goes right slap bang through some of the designs and there are looks of vehicle marks were people have driven off the road into the desert - not very good for such a world importance site.

There is the constant buzz of light aero planes taking people sight seeing over the lines too, which we will add too in the morning.

We are definitely at our furthest point now, and the only way is home!

We decided to stay out of town, and town looks a right something hole if you see what I mean. We decided to stay at a more pricey place by the airport in order we can get a morning flight and then head off and get a few miles in nearer Chile.

For a double room and a half hour flight each we pay £30 which isn't bad. There are options for longer flights but really we need to make some progress homeward now so this is the best plan.

Martin and Alan have made it about half way so as we'll leave in the afternoon we won't meet again....until the UK that is.

Because we're at a place outside of town we have to pay for food and beer at a higher price but there you go. A few biscuits and some water was all we had today as the only roadside places looked a bit grim. Don't mind them in most places but Peru looks just a bit too grim were we've been compared to other countries we've been too. There really isn't much choice in the sticks.

By doing a few days of just riding with little else we could be in BA in 9 days so we have room for movement, but we'll feel happier once we are back at San Pedro de Atacama as it's a hop and a skip to Argentina from there, and we'll know better our complete return details. At present we have our return flights, but yet to fix the details for the bike, which may or may not take a few days.