On Russian soil and keenStrolling out of the ferry building blinking in the bright sun, we are met by Dmitri. He is one of the strong community of bikers in Russia. They gather in August each year for the 'Facing The Ocean' rally on the coast north of Vladivostok. They have a well-deserved reputation for hospitality and assistance to overlanders. In fact Uwe and I had both contacted them independently prior to our arrival.

A thoroughly Russian introduction to Vladivostok, beer in the square.
From left, Dmitri, Uwe, Ian and Frederik

An Russian introduction to Vladivostok
Dmitri showed us all around town which at first impression looked very run-down. This was not dispelled by second and third impressions. The place is run-down. It is a particular type of run-down, there are things that should last a hundred years but they are broken. Like the treads of concrete steps. You would normally need to drive a tank down them just to chip them, but these have crumbled. Beautiful buildings are falling apart. It is as though everything in public ownership has been neglected since the fall of the USSR.
We returned to the dock when unloading was due to commence. After a couple of hours, we lost interest and since customs was closed we accompanied Dmitri back to his apartment. There we met his beautiful partner Julia, drank beer and ate Russian treats until bed-time. Alexey, Christina and Friedrich came over later and tall stories traded.

Friends in Vlad. From top left, Dmitri, Christina, Alexey, Ian, Julia, Uwe

We slept at Friedrich's apartment where there was more room for people with large amounts of kit.
The customs formalities were dispensed with in just one day and we proudly rode our bikes up the main street and back to Friedrich's apartment. Secured parking was found locally and we retired. Friedrich had just gotten up (he works nights) and while I caught up on e-mails, he pottered in the kitchen. Friedrich then called me to dinner and left for work! What a guy, to make dinner for two people, buy beer and then leave. What amazing hospitality.
Up and ready for an 8:30 start. My sidestand broke before the bike was fully loaded. I think the extra 10kg of spare tyres loaded up high were the final straw. I had meant to post them to Ulan Ude from Vladivostok but had been advised against entrusting anything more value than coal to their larceny.
Rode north into fog and rain with two tyres knobbling my back. It was an 11 hour, 800km journey over poorly maintained roads, pot-holed, road-worked, neglected. There were large sections that had roadworks but with no actual road-working going on. It is as though these sections have been condemned.
Arrived in Khabarovsk and rang Eugeny. He was to put us up for the night and direct us from town in the morning. In another display of hospitality, Eugeny had booked and paid for a hotel because he has a new baby and we could not stay with him. We declined his offer to pay but stayed in a more modest room in the same hotel. It was 10:30 before we were showered and ready to eat. We went with Eugeny and friends to a Bavarian bierkellar but weren't up to a big night after the days ride. Luckily the bierkellar closed at midnight.
Setting off the following morning, Eugeny presented us with a very good road atlas of the Prymore and Umerskaya regions and some Russian military rations. The 1.7kg box was a challenge to store but success was mine.