All alone at the start of the gravel60km west of Birabidzhan, the gravel starts. Easy going for a dirt bike but hard on cars and trucks. Most of the road is fine but there are sudden dips that would damage a car at speed. Soon I am having fun at 100km on the gravel. Since the road is fairly straight, this is a maintainable speed. The KTM is coming right at that speed, too slow and the ride is uncomfortable and the bike wants to dig into the gravel. At times in the deeper gravel the bike twitches but either standing or sitting well forward corrects that.
The wheel and spokes are fine, all passed the 'ring' test with a spanner. They are all similarly pitched and not a dull note. Lunch was just part of a large bag of left-overs kindly given to me by Sergey's girlfriend Alicia. The kebabs tasted just as good second time around.
The road is wide but very dusty. Since this is the main transport route for all the second-hand Japanese cars that came with us on the ferry, there are convoys of them. They travel two-abreast which makes overtaking tricky.
Camped just east of Belogorsk in a disused gravel-pit. These have been thoughtfully placed all over Russia especially as camping spots for travellers. Trail-rode up the back to a leafy spot frequented only by mosquitoes. Great to dry out the tent in the warm afternoon breeze.

A pleasant bush camp just east of Belogorsk

The next day (9th June) I rode into Belogorsk intent on finding good quality oil and a tyre pressure gauge. Found an open auto-market and purchased Shell Ultra fully synthetic engine oil in 1 litre containers and a gauge. I should have returned it immediately when it kept giving different readings each time I used it. It is really an air confirmation indicator or maybe pressure presence indicator, certainly not a gauge.
Last jobs were food and internet. Coming out of the magazine (the Russian superette) I was accosted by beggars. When it got to three, a man (another Sergey) came along and told them to bug off (but in Russian) and then asked if I needed any help. I asked to be pointed to an internet cafe and he said "Follow me". The internet cafe was closed and so he invited me to his home. We went up to his apartment where I met his wife Natasha and their daughter. While I was sending off a couple of quick e-mails Sergey asked if I would like tea. Always one for a cuppa me. When I had completed the e-mails Sergey invited me through to the kitchen where a veritable feast was laid out... with only one fork. Yes the four fried eggs, sardines, bread, sweet pasties and tea were all for me! I made a manful effort but only eroded the edges of the food mountain.
Outside for photos and then Sergey guided me back the 14km to the main road.

Sergey

When I think back on the open-heartedness of Sergey, I am lost for words. Sergey helped a person who he had never met, with whom he shared no common language to an extent that surpasses all standards of kindness. This is 'Pay It Forward' on a national scale. Money could never repay such generosity. These are big men with enormous hearts.