Stories from the beach stopover before the motorbike journey begins...So, a few nights in Kuala Lumpur watching the rain come down could have been boring, but for a Melbournian it can be pretty exciting – haven't seen much rain in recent years. As my mates and I say in the barren land, “better get a photo of that to show the grandchildren, could be the last time it ever happens”

As I walked up and down Petaling Street in Chinatown I pondered, as you do, how so many businesses all selling the same things could possibly make money. The mystery was quickly solved as I was reminded just how inflated starting prices are for goods – often up to 400% of what they will actually sell for – and how many people probably buy things without knocking too much of those starting prices.

The LCC (Low Cost Carrier) Terminal of Kuala Lumpur airport surprised me with free wifi internet, which is always a bonus. But really KL was just a necessary stopover (thanks to flying Air Asia) on the way to some beautiful Thai beaches. By the way, funny website http://www. sleepinginairports .net/

Staying on Koh Phi Phi Don is always exciting for me, with it's brilliant blue waters and party atmosphere. Unfortunately the water quality has deteriorated significantly in the last couple of years and Tonsai Bay now plays host to a slight green tinge which cannot be avoided, but by wading further out to sea I was rewarded with clear blue waters – the thing that entices me to come back again and again. This pollution raises the question - “what do I do?” The bay is polluted, in part, because there are dozens of boats coming and going all day every day to support the thousands of tourists who can't resist the place – of whom I am one. The locals live off the tourism, but the island suffers from the tourism. A lose/lose situation? Support the locals and come. Support the environment and don't come. The eternal question for travelers, to which I have no answer.

Phi Phi also makes the reality of the 2004 Tsunami hit home. As I walk the streets of the tourist village there aren't too many reminders of the tragedy, but there are a couple of businesses in particular who humbly display notes of thanks to those who helped them rebuild. I can only imagine the emptiness and grief that these people suffer/ed. One of these restaurants, “Garlic 1992”, serves up some great Thai dishes, including my favourite - Fried Rice Green Curry - for under 100 Baht (just under AU$3.50) - Highly recommended, located just near the Boat/Rock restaurant.

From Phi Phi we had a night in Phuket town and one in Trat, on the way to Ko Mak. Unfortunately the regulations at the room in Phuket meant that both my traveling budies were not allowed to stay, one because of regulation 5 and one because of regulation 6:

I suggested they take bus number 550 to Happy land, surely everyone's allowed there...

This was my fourth time through Trat, each time staying at the cute little Ban Jaidee guesthouse – a homely place in the old town that is always relaxing. I have only ever gone from here to Ko Chang, which I love, but this time we decided to try something different and head to Ko Mak with taxi and speedboat organised through Guy Guest House. I kept myself occupied on the 45 minute speed boat ride by standing at the front of the boat with knees bent, ducking and weaving with the rise of the boat, as though I were skiing.

As the boat rounded the bay towards the pier at Ko Mak I was a little concerned that we'd picked a dud island, lacking in white sandy beach. Not only this, but the pier and surrounding area were deserted – not a soul in site and we were the only people to get off the boat, the others speeding off towards Ko Kud. I found this funny enough as it reminded me of the time that Jeremy and I were taken by shuttle bus to an empty air hangar in Arnhem Land (outback Australia) and told simply to wait. How long we didn't know and, of course, the longer we waited the more concerned we became – were we going to have to drill for water to survive, or maybe use plastic bags to catch drips of dew in the night? Haha – there's a tip from Mum's little book of survival which she decided to show me the night before I left for this trip. Needless to say, I survived both Arnhem Land and Ko Mak, with a lovely lady taxi driver, having spotted the speedboat putting us to shore, arriving shortly thereafter.

Our taxi lady brought us far enough around the island to see white sand, which never fails to bring a smile to my face.

Having settled ourselves into a solid little bungalow at Baan Chai Lay I proceeded to lay down my towel and get ready to devour my new book “Power of the Sword” by Wilbur Smith. I was hastily interrupted by an older German lady who did her best to mime to me that if I lay on the sand then sandflies would reap havoc on my body – all she had to do was point at the sores on her leg and I was out of there. Pity, I love to just lie on the beach and read. She brought to me an unlabeled bottle with coconut oil, claiming that this was the necessary shield. So off to the shops I trotted to purchase some of the same. It works. Winner.

The night brought one of the best sleeps of the trip so far, with nothing other than the calming sound of waves rolling onto the shore to break the silence of night. Upon hiring scooters for the day we set out on a round island trip in search of the best beach – always the most important task for me when arriving at a new island. The highlight of this little scooter trip, though, was not the beaches, as many of them are too shallow for swimming. The highlight came as we crept our way through a foot path in the jungle, on our scooters, and I discovered something...something special. Well, if I had ever seen a rubber plantation before then it may not have been so special, but because I didn't know what it was, this little discovery made my day!

As we came to a dead end in the track I noticed that a little spiral had been carefully carved in the bark of a tree and a chute had been made to catch the seeping sap in a half coconut shell.

I poked and I prodded, sure that this was some secret drug crop and that a gunman was about to take a shot at me from his hidden perch in the dense jungle.

As I searched for him in the surrounding area with my eyes I realised that this was not the only tree with a spiral carved out – there were, in fact, many of them, all in rows. Organised crime.

My curiosity still not satisfied I decided that I must take a little bit of this drug with me for analysis back at the bungalow. Don't worry Kerryn and Mum, I wasn't tempted to taste it like the numbing bean in Fiji. Actually, I was tempted, but I heard your voices all the way from the loungeroom at home “Don't go eating anything silly Cameron!!”. On further inspection the texture was deemed to be rubbery. Indeed, I am convinced that my magical mystery drug, harvested in the depths of the Thai jungle, is nothing but a little bit of rubber!

I tried to call home to tell the tale, but the phone didn't seem to be working...

Enough for now.
8 Days until bike search begins...

Notes on costs:
Exchange rate in Chinatown, KL, was significantly better than at home in Australia or at the airport. AU$1 buying 3.02 Malaysian Ringgit (RM), rather than RM2.6 + fee in Melbourne.

TRANSPORT
Skybus from LCCTerminal to KL Central train station RM14 return.
Taxi Phuket Airport to Rassata Pier: 350Baht (3 people)
Phuket – Phi Phi Ferry: 400 Baht (ripped off – should have paid 250-300)
Trat – Ko Mak taxi and speedboat 450 Baht, 45 minutes
Scooter hire on Ko Mak 200-350 Baht

ACCOMMODATION
Hotel Petaling: RM68 for a triple.
Off the south end of Petaling Street with a green sign.
Air con, attached bathroom, a little noisy and cramped, but comfortable enough.
6/10 on the Brookesy Scale of value for money budget accommodation.

Petaling Street Hotel: RM100 for a triple
In the heart of chinatown.
Air con, attached shower and toilet, two big double beds, had a room in the centre of the hotel so street noise was not a problem.
8/10 on the Brookesy Scale.

Phi Phi RC Guesthouse 1200 Baht for a triple.
Air con, fridge, hot water, reasonably quiet at night. (Prices have pretty much doubled since I was here just before Christmas 2007)
6/10

Trat Ban Jaidee Guesthouse: 150 Baht single, 200 Baht double
Fan and shared bathroom – very tidy.
9/10

Baan Chai Lay bungalow 1100 Baht for a triple.
Air con, large bathroom, huge main room, quiet and peaceful.
7.5/10