when we came across a fork and an unmanned check post we decided we'd take a “wrong turn” and see where we ended up...
Sikkim, what a blast! Permit applications, magnificent scenery, riding to high altitudes north of the Yumthang Valley.

Gangtok gave us Snow Leopards

A couple of days with a pair of entertaining Frenchies

and zombies in the mist.

Entry is only permitted to the state of Sikkim upon applying for a free permit before arrival. The basic permit allows entry only to the west and south of the state. To head further north to the spectacular Yumthang Valley, or to Tsomgo Lake in the east, requires a further permit and that a tour guide be used. Or so they say! But never fear, we were able to convince the District Magistrate in Mangan to issue us with a permit for visiting the northern part of the state. His words were “well there is a funny rule that says you must take a tour guide, but since you are on motorbikes, I don't know where you will put him”. With that he signed off and we continued on our merry way.

Having crossed the Ninghik check post the road deteriorated significantly

and when we came across a fork and an unmanned check post we decided we'd take a “wrong turn” and see where we ended up.

The road climbed sharply

The temperature dropped quickly

and landslides marred the path.

The rough roads had taken their toll on the luggage rack and the 20mm diameter steel tubing sheared right through on Torb's bike.

As we drove on longer we realised just how far we were from...well, from food and accommodation really, and that we were going to have to find some friendly locals to take us in for the night. Even the villages, few and far between, didn't have shops. Eventually we were pulled into a tin and timber hut and given “Maggi”, 2 minute noodles, and chiya/chai. After sitting with the locals for about 45 minutes we were told that there were 32 South Africans just up the hill.

Turns out this group of men are working on a large hydro electric project on the Teesta river and that there little colony, as I dubbed it, was a great find. We were welcomed and dealt some legendary hospitality, fed beef burgers and chips and given a comfortable bed for the night. Thankyou Wynand and team.

Next morning was a tour of the construction site which was very interesting...for a boy :)

The ride towards Yumthang (3600 metres) weaved up the valley, crossing the river numerous times.

Yumthang itself is nothing more than a handful of shacks serving 2 minute noodles and tea, but it felt like we had arrived somewhere special, so far from the plains of India.

Beyond here the road climbs steeply to the Tibet border, approximately 45km beyond Yumthang, and the military camps along the way seemed to have no problem with us “just going up for a quick look and coming down again later” :)

Unfortunately our newly acquired waterproof pants weren't quite long enough to keep the water out of my newly acquired boots and the last couple of hours of riding were very wet and very cold.

Riding higher and higher as the snow fell heavier and heavier

we eventually got to 4300 meters and the track was covered in ice which we could hardly control the bikes on so, reluctantly, we turned around and headed for... anywhere that had a fire!

Stopping at a shack in Yumthang we dried our socks on the fire...a little too much.

For some reason my beach bum shirt had been tied to the back of the luggage rack for a few days and was looking very grim. Torb, in the grand tradition of finding entertainment in me doing stupid things, offered me 100 Rupees to put it on. Gross.

As always, it is important to keep the following in mind:

And here is another in the series of “Love is enough” photos. I'm sure they're going to be a big hit.

Might make a calender.