Bike ride from Bangalore to Varanasi

From bangalore to varanasi on bike - A Diary.

In our school days, there was an essay in English about a great personality of India; I do not remember the name, hopefully great poet Rabindra Nath Tagore, who wished to travel India on bullock cart. Then I was amused with this idea, but later when I travelled across the country on train, wished if I could feel the trees, the rivers, the hills, the human faces passing rapidly through the window of my train, then I could understand the significance of the idea.
Whenever I had a chance to go on long drive on motor cycle, I enjoyed the thrill of travel. A thought crept into my mind why not India on bike? Why not the world on two wheeler? Expressed to friends and family, they laughed, except my daughter. But she knew my family responsibilities
I searched for books on long distance travel on bike. Read Ted Simons “Dreaming of Jupiter”, The Motorcycle Diaries: Notes on a Latin American Journey by Ernesto Che Guevara, and recently (in 2013) “On Life to Ride” by Ajit Harisinghani. It was real thrill reading these books. The Idea of bike tour germinated in 2004, owing my job and family exigencies, I was delaying in getting the voyage go.
Finally In December 2013, I felt like to start with my dream long dormant. Friends cautioned me of my age, being 66 in November 2013. But I planned my tour and started on 2nd January 2014 by train to Chennai.
I visited Tirupati Balaji on 4th January again after a gap of 28 years. I had been to Balaji in 1986, that time, it looked very serene place, its surroundings and location had a divine spell on me and thought to visit again when much time to spend there had. But this time, the place seems like a commercial complex owing to huge number of people coming from all parts of India. I missed the serenity and divine spell I undergone, on my earlier visit. Words of the Swami Vivekananda came into my mind, “This was the idea of the temple and the church, and you will find it at now, but in majority of them the very idea has been lost. The idea is that by keeping holy vibrations there the place becomes illumined.” (The swami is referring to the place of meditation.)
Next stop was Kanyakumari. Earlier visit to that place was in 1994, which was a hectic tour to Vivekananda rock memorial, that time too I looked forward to visit again with feeling of ease.
Reached there on 11th of January but missed the feel for which I was longing to visit the place again. I visited Vivekananda’s rock, the southern piece of rock on India’s map. It was so serene to be there and thought of this great saint divine persona filled in me a great accomplishment of being there.
This time there were many people to visit the place and a long queue to get into boat whereas boats coming and going without a break. I was very leisurely when got down from boat with an idea to remain there for good time. I took a seat in the meditation hall for about 45 minutes the sound of “om” vibrating at a regular span making a magical spell. Visited many stalls, purchased a golden colour bust of swami Vivekananda and a book, “Marx and Vivekananda A Comparative Study” by Parameswaram. The forward of the book is written by Justice V.R. Krishna Iyer. (A Former Judge of Supreme Court of India) Was curious to read how a comparison goes between a Spiritual Swami and Materialistic philosophy.
At one of the stalls came to know about Vivekananda Kendra in Kanyakumari, of which I was unaware and the Thiruvalluvar Statue is a tall stone sculpture of the Tamil poet and philosopher Tiruvalluvar, author of the Thirukkural, was not there, on my previous visit. The statue is magnificent and gigantic.
I felt like seeing the Vivekananda Kendra and after coming down from the memorial rock, set on foot to see it. By the time I reached there it was dusk. It has big and peaceful campus. On reception counter I enquired about yoga shibir which was to take place soon, but I was overage being 66 whereas age limit is 25 to 60 years.

By the time, I reached my room at guest house was tired but the night was horrific in my room it was territory of mosquitoes , in spite of full swing of ceiling fan I could hardly sleep. Though rent paid for two days, but I resist the temptation stay for another day. I got my reservation in train to Bangalore done. The train to start at 10.30 AM on 12th of January. Railway station of Kanyakumari is very beautiful.
On 13th of January 2014 I reached Bangalore early morning to prepare myself for a long motorcycle ride.

PREPARATION FOR MOTOCYCLE RIDE

My Yamaha crux-s, 2005 model has not been in use for many months, it has to be taken care of, for its endurance for a long drive. Got it serviced, engine oil changed, faulty speedometer made in working condition and had test drive in Bangalore for a few days.
Finally, on 19th of January 2014 at around 8 O’clock in morning my daughter and son in law saw me off to my motorcycle journey from Bangalore to Varanasi. When I came of city and hit NH7 for onward drive, my first thought was, the pressure of around 1900 kilometer distance. Now I was feeling the implication of distance. It was easy to imagine covering a long distance by seeing a kilometer stone.
When came out of city traffic, National Highway look so delightful for level driving. I thought of Raj Kapoor's movie Shree 420’s song of “nikal pade hai khuli sadak par…”. The pleasant sensation of fresh air coming under half down helmet screen, the open space, the sunny sky, the rhythmic sound of bike: dug dug dug..All were making an impact of a blissful feel of movement in life.
Target for the day was Anantpur, 212 km from Bangalore. Around noon I was passing near Anantapur. Lovely buildings were there on both sides of the road, many banks and other hoardings, appeared as if it is a rich city and lot of potential for banks and other commercial avenues. All looked new. I felt I could cover some more distance as my plan was of day driving; still there was time before sunset so I thought of reaching Kurnool for night stay.
After, Anantpur behind, I stopped for a few minutes rest, and a couple of biscuits and water. Highway looked majestic, having rocky fields around. Reached Kurnool around 4 PM. First thought there was to look for any colleague from my bank, to have night accommodation in good moderate hotel, but it was Sunday. Found Rajavihar Hotel for night stay. Had warm bathe, a cup of hot tea, curd rice dinner, made phone calls, after seeing TV news for some time gone to sound sleep.
20th January; 2014

Woke up early, had hot shower, packed my bag, came down to go to the hotel restaurant but it was not yet opened. Went out and had a hot cup of tea, purchased a packet of Good day Biscuit and small bottle of Slice for journey snacks. Checked out of Hotel, it was about 6 o'clock in the morning, had to skip complimentary breakfast from the hotel, to start early. I asked a person from the hotel to take snap from my mobile when I start my day’s ride. Here it is—

It was just dawn when I started from Kurnool and hit the highway. The day’s target was to go beyond Hyderabad which was around 210 kilometers. The fresh morning air, the silky highway and target 300 km, infused in me with enthusiasm and fortitude to go to the next.
At next petrol pump, got the bike fueled to reach comfortably to next halt. Both side of the road there were Dhabas (Where usually truck drivers and other highway travelers take their meals and refreshments and specially trucks halt at night). Most of the Dhaba’s name had an association with the Punjab, like; Punjabi dhaba, Jalandhar dhaba or “some” singh dhaba. I think it has some linkage the way Punjabis like their rich and lavish meals.

Reached Hyderabad around noon, but I lost highway and entered the city. Though I had been to city earlier, I could not make the way to highway and after many inquiries I was able to reach highway, but I lost more the two valuable hours at that point of reaching target in time. When I was on highway the road milestone was like Nagpur 475 kilometer. I wish to make another 100 km so that I can make to reach Nagpur. Kamareddy was another more than 100 km.
Kamareddy was visible after 4 pm. Reached for an hotel but no hotel located. Opted for a guest house. When I entered the of guest house, it was untidy filthy and repelling; asked to change the room. But new room was a bit better. There was no geyser in the bathroom and was very badly in need of hot bathe. Any way the boy from guest house arranged a bucket of hot water. There were no restaurants near guest house, the guest house boy told me that he would bring meals from a good hotel and asked for my bike. When he was back with meals asked me if there was no petrol in bike, that it did not start on way back. I did not took notice of it as I was assured of sufficient petrol. After taking dinner I went down to see if bike was parked okay. I found handle lock was broken. I had early next morning plan to start, asked the boy if any mechanic was nearby. I told to him pull the bike to mechanic as it could not start. The mechanic could not get the old lock out. He said he had no “paana” (spanner) to open that. He fixed a new lock out side and made the ignition direct. It was 10 pm, but I was relaxed that I could start early next morning
21st January, 2014
I started at 5.30 in the morning, It was dark. Had tea on road side tea stall. After tea, I asked for a paan (betel leaf), he stared at me seeing my bike and my bag on it. He said “ yeh motorcycle to dusre state ka hai saheb”( this motorcycle is from state, Sir) Kamareddy is in Andhra Pradesh. I said yes. “ aap apne state main motorcycle se jayenge?” he asked. ( Will you go to your state by motorcycle?). I said yes. “Nahi saheb is umar main itna lamba safar motorcycle se theek nahi hai”( In this age (seeing my white hair and beard)No sir, it is not good to travel so long on motorcycle)ho told. I was touched by his concern for an unknown man. I said “it is okay, I can Manage”.
It was still dark when I hit Highway. I could see milestone in a few minutes under the headlight of my bike. It was Nagpur 375 KM.
At around dawn, I reached mile stone which said Nagpur 330 km.
I felt relaxed at dawn, air was cool and with spreading of sunlight my view was widened, I could see the greenery with lovely landscape.
At around 7.30 I stopped to empty my bladder and have some snack and water. Had a to and fro stroll
my bike to release stiffness of my legs and sit on the bike for a while. It was really a breathtaking experience, sitting on still bike beside a wide national highway, beautiful landscape, fresh air and lines of Robert Frost stirred in my mind, ”Miles to go before I sleep”. in a lighter way.
I was realising the long distance to Nagpur before sunset, so I did steady myself and started. As I reached near the side road which cut to Adilabad, two young men on bike slided near me and asked, “This bike is from other state. Are you going straight to your place without seeing places on the way”? I said , “ I do not intend to stay in this city(indicating towards the arrow indication to Adilabad). It is too early for evening may cover more miles.” They smiled and said good bye to me.
The highway upto Adilabad was very good, but as it was nearing Nagpur, it was not that good. Actually a patch, between Adilabad and Nagpur was under repair or construction, was giving experiences of bad drive. On petrol pump, while filling fuel, asked for the condition of road ahead to Nagpur, got to know that around thirty kilometer before it would be okay.

At around 3.30 pm, 15 kilometer before Nagpur, I could find a neat tea shop beside the road under a shady tree. That is what i was looking for. Stopped, parked the bike, stretched my legs, washed my face with a jug of water lavishly, ordered special double tea. Sipped tea very leisurely, talking to the boy, the shop owner.Tea was very refreshing, had another glass of tea.When I started the bike for Nagpur in search of a hotel, it was 4.30 pm.

Reached The Majestic Manor Nagpur before before dusk.
The room was clean and tidy when I got in. The first impulse was to take a warm shower, which was quite leisurely. The relaxing shower, gave way to a wish to a light drink which I resisted. Went down to the dining hall, had wholesome vegetarian dinner. It was pleasant evening, could not resist to have a short stroll on the sidewalk of the highway in front of the hotel and was so soothing after a long driving day.

22nd Jan 2014

Got up early in the morning, the sun was yet to be visible, but silky light of the dawn was emerging slowly, when I opened the window of my room. Felt like having a morning walk, as the day’s destination, Jabalpur was only 280 kilometer, comparatively shorter than previous one.
Enjoyed the morning walk on the sidewalk along the highway, relaxed my hands and legs with light exercise and loved the sip of tea from the road side tea vendor.
All set to start to Jabalpur, the hotel employee took took my pictures and gentleman in jeans along with person, sitting in the lawn, wished me luck,

T
that is how I started for Jabalpur around 9.30 am, as was relaxed for the easy distance of 280 kilometer for the day. But it was turned to be otherwise, the most difficult ride so for. The only enjoyable part was passing through a passage of woods, near Seoni. I was driving on a moderate speed of 50 km/hour plus minus. Surprisingly, a scooter with pinion rider, crossed me many times with noticeably high speed, having making water or resting, when my bike crossed them with majestic speed of its own. All the time they were looking at my old bike and me. I enjoyed their curiosity.
But when the real tough drive on the pitchy road arrived, the speed of 10/15 km/hour, made realised the meaning of the distance of 280 km distance. First time , felt tired of slow driving and taunting pitch and holes on the road.
At noon, stopped road side big dhaba; big because, many truck drivers were resting, laying or having refreshment, their trucks scatterly parked on big space around. Had a pair of samosa, biscuits and cold drink. Relaxed for a while, but drive to come , was still haunting my mind.
Resumed the drive after half an hour.
I could feel the suburb of Jabalpur, just around dusk. My memories of Jabalpur crawled into my thoughts. I had been to this city’s cantonment, in the first quarter of 1970 for training when I was in army. Those memories are youthfully pleasant.
I thought about the hotels around railway station. But I realised the gap between the time span, when was around railway station. It sea change. I could find Rishi Regency Hotel at around 7.00 pm, fully exhausted.

Had hot shower, enjoyed a drink at the bar of the hotel, before dinner, and glued to the bed at the earliest.

23rd Jan 2014
Woke up early in an intention to start early, as last day’s drive made understand the significance of road condition in respect to magnitude of distance. Though, day’s destination of 198 kilometer, to Satna was shorter, but I wanted to give full respect to condition of the road ahead. Started around 7.30 , after having complementary and heavy breakfast from the hotel. Till outskirt of the city road was very smooth, but afterwards I could see the loaded trucks creeping like bullock cart because of the condition of the road. There were a few welcome spell of smooth road. At around 1.30, I could read, Satna 50 km. on the road side stone. Felt comfortable for onwards drive, started looking for a road side dhaba for meals.
The dhaba was clean, some truck drivers were having meals. After parking the bike and removing my helmet, sprinkled water on my face, eyes and head; a soothing relieve. Had rice and simple daal without tadka, and relished. It was a real good feel, having meals in an open dhaba, with a few trucks parked around, cool breeze, and more than thousand km. drive behind. The dhaba owner was running paan (betel) shop too. We had formal talk about my drive and destination (varanasi). “Saab hummara paan banaras jaisa nahi hoga par aap ko achha lagega.”( Sir my betel will not be as good as betel from Banaras (Varanasi) but you will like it). He offered me paan with a smile, it was good and he did not take three rupees the cost of paan.
Before starting my bike phoned my friend at Kothi, (twenty km. away from Satna) He was at Satna when I reached there. He wanted to arrange my stay in hotel in Satna, but I prefered to stay with him at his residence at Kothi as we would enjoy our talk and privacy. My friend is branch manager of a Nationalised bank at Kothi. We reached to his branch on my bike. He introduced me to his staff members and told them about my drive and that we were colleague at some point of time in the past in another branch. He and his staff were very happy and surprised about my drive at my age.
At his residence it was lavish arrangement of drink and dinner for both of us by his household help(he lived alone at his workplace). I came to know about some of our old colleagues working in Satna and Rewa. I talked to one at Rewa on phone. We talked and enjoyed till late at night. It was a memorable stay.

24th Jan.2014

We said goodbye at 7.00 in the morning. He gifted me a diary and a few calendars of new year. Destination Varanasi, around 300 km. Condition of road unknown.
It was drizzling when near Satna and continued for an hour but I did not stop. Near Hanumana I had some snacks and tea. Road condition was better than Nagpur to Satna. A traffic was thin and my speed , I was recalling my drive in flashback. The most striking thing which I found very unusual, that hundreds of Petrol Pumps of Reliance Company were not working and giving deserted look. Such a waste investment and infrastructure remain dormant. It is company’s lose or national I was unable to figure it out, but it gave sad look those dormant petrol pumps, deprived of live energy.

Passing through the road of hilly rise and slopes of Mirzapur was a real soothing experience, as rays of afternoon sun falling through trees to curvy roads, indicating the day and my destination was imminent; feeling of a thrill. Suddenly at one bend there appeared some kids of age around 10 having small bundles of forest wood, sitting on pavement rise of roadside. My sudden appearance on that curve, caused a glint in there eyes, as if I was a customer to there wood. For that moment, the spark of hope in their eyes, descended into my mind’s heart. It conveyed very relentless question. Even after 67 years of self rule, we, the people of India have no answer.

I hit national highway 2 at Aurai at pre dusk time.

I had roadside tea before I started for final destination.
Reached their around 7 pm 24.01,2014. Seven days around two thousand kilometer (19/01/2014 to 24/01/2014) a lively experience.