We turn east and deicide to head home via New Mexico and the last of the Rockies. We see Taos and glimpse the plains and their vast expanse. Durango, Colorado, to Cimmeron, New Mexico

291 Miles

4484 total miles

Day 19 brought such sweet sorrow as we made our final jaunt out of Colorado and crossed the continental divide for the last time and began heading east. Colorado roads exceeded our wildest expectations and the scenery was unforgettable. But before we grow too morose, let's remember that the last week of this journey is not simply a return trip, it is another opportunity for adventure.

Our departure from Durango was delayed for a bit as Bill worked diligently to fix a problem with the satellite radio. Motorcycle travel exposes everything on the bike to intense vibrations. The radio audio and power connections kept working loose, which can be intolerable when you lose the last few bars of Led Zeppelin's "Stairway to Heaven."

While working on the radio in the motel parking lot we met Larry and Paul, two Bostonians who flew west and rented Harley's for a week of mountain riding. They told us to be sure to take Highway 64 into New Mexico, which they described as full of twisties and highly scenic. An older man came by and also advised that we take Highway 64, although he said to watch out for cattle loose by the side of the road. He also said he loves to ride his son's sport-bike, which he described as "too damn fast for me but a lot of fun."

Bostonians on rented Harleys

The radio was soon fixed and we began the day's drive. Our first stop was Pagosa Springs, Colorado, where we stopped for breakfast. Our drive to Pagosa Springs was unchallenging but typically pretty.

Curious barking dog near Pagosa Springs

Hispanic roadside memorials are big in the SW

We left Pagosa Springs and soon reached the New Mexico border. Highway 64 was proving to be everything it was advertised to be. Full of broad sweepers and tight twisties, it took us through high plains surrounded by rocky mountain foothills. The high plains were full of beautiful cattle ranches that stretched out for miles. And, also as advertised, we came across several cows having lunch by the side of the road.

Southern Colorado cattle ranch

On one long stretch of road we noticed three other bikes hot on our tail. We were a five-bike caravan for several miles. We came to a highway construction site and were forced to stop for about 15 minutes. Our three new co-riders joined us at the stop. They were from Albuquerque, New Mexico, and were out for a couple of days of travel. One of them has family in Ducktown, Tennessee, and recently enjoyed a week of bike travel in southwestern Tennessee.

Fast Hondas outside Taos

It bears mentioning that the motorcycle community is quite different than its' stereotypical image. No matter where we have been, our fellow bike travelers have been friendly and helpful and always eager to talk about shared experiences.

We passed through Chama, New Mexico, where Bill and his family had visited years ago for skiing and snowmobiling.

Outside Chama, NM

We soon reached the Rio Grande Gorge Bridge, which is said to be the third highest in the USA. It's a drop of 1200 feet from the bridge surface to the river below. We walked to the center of the bridge to take photos. While there, we met Dan Yoakum, who recently retired from the United States Army. Dan and his wife plan to ship a bike to New Zealand soon and travel around for a few months.

Let us know how the RT works in NZ, Dan.

The road took us next to Taos, New Mexico. If you are a fan of southwestern art, Taos is Mecca. Art galleries dotted every corner. The downtown sidewalks were full of tourists and a parade was working its way through the busy streets. After a hot 30 minutes working our way through these busy streets, we exited Taos for the day's final destination, Cimmeron, New, Mexico.

Beautiful Canyon outside Eagle Nest, NM

The route to Cimmeron took us through a tight valley of very twisty roads that followed a small stream. The stream was full of anglers, which again conjured up our internal struggle between biking and fishing. Once again, biking was the winner.

We reached Cimmeron, but not before taking a short side trip down Highway 21, which takes the path of the mountain part of the Santa Fe Trail. We passed by Philmont Scout Ranch, the famous Boy Scout retreat. Bill received his 50 Mile hiking badge there when he was a teenager.

We settled into the Kit Carson Inn for the night after a meal of fried chicken (you can take the boy of out the South...) at the inn's restaurant. We hooked the iBook up to the television and watched a DVD of "The Wild One" starring Marlon Brando. Truly inspiring stuff.