Spent the morning getting to the motorbike shop, neither of us has had any brain waves as to what might be wrong and causing the bike electronics to be dead. I went in search of a hire van to take the bike to a Suzuki dealer near stockholm.
Uppsala.

Spent the morning getting to the motorbike shop, neither of us has had any brain waves as to what might be wrong and causing the bike electronics to be dead. I went in search of a hire van to take the bike to a Suzuki dealer near stockholm.

As it is end of school and end of University here, all the available vans have been hired out. But the wonderful thing of the day was when I asked a couple of rough looking blokes where the car/truck hire place is they offered to take me to it in there car. I got in the car with them a little apprehensively but as we got chatting they were really fantastic guys. They were father and son builders and the father had immigrated from Iran 30years ago and married a Swedish woman. He talked life in Iran under the Shah and how glorious it was and how he believed it had changed. They do mostly domestic building work with a little commercial work thrown in. We talked about how difficult it was to work here in the winter. They took me to a few rental places but we were unable to get a van so they were good enough to take me back to the bike shop where we arranged to pick up the bike Monday. After that we caught up with James at his flat and updated the blog, uploaded photos and caught up with some emails. James and I had one of our little chats and then he went out to catch up with some friends before they leave.

Called Cal on Skype, it was nice to talk to him via video Skype. He is going well doing fine without me.

Then back to the camping park for tea, steak and veg tonight. Woohoo.

Sunday 6 june

Got up early (yes 6am is early when you are on holidays and caught the bus and train to Stockholm. Train ride was nice, countryside was much the same as what we have seen so far.

Had a look through the old city then up to the palace. We were fortunate as today was a national holiday and all of the entry fees to museums and palaces are free. There was lots going on around the palace and it was quite busy. Inside was very ornate and the setout and most of the rooms had similarities with Blenheim palace. There were a couple of larger rooms that were stunning in their ornate fittings and wood work so was really nice to be able to see it.

The day was perfect and the amount of people out and about town and in the parks was more than I have ever seen other than to major events in Melbourne. There were boats and ships of all shapes and sizes cruising around the Stockholm area. The people here really appreciate the sun and soaking it up. I suppose after a long winter it would be wonderful to experience the sun again. The parks here are really large and apparently there are still wild deer here in the city parks. I went to the maritime Museum and Bron went to a Sovereign hill type wild life park called Skansen. She said it was fantastic having the 2 combined in such a way.

James and Anna met us afterwards to complete the day with dinner in Stockholm. (fish and Chips, meat a skewer/souvlaki) Then the train back to Uppsala.

I have arranged ( I hope) for the insurance I bought for the bike to organise and pay for moving the bike to a Suzuki dealer tomorrow morning. So hope it comes off and the bike is back in working order tomorrow.

Had a funny episode with a toilet again today. Had my tankbag/backpack on and went to a toilet, I opened the door and there was the urinal. It was a 3 person urinal and I had it all to myself then the door close pushing my backpack and me very close to into the toilet. What is it with me and European dunnys?

The maritime museum was interesting. Learning about the war between the Swedes and the Russians was surprising as well as showing the construction of some of their boats and how they developed over the years. James tells me there is another boat and ship museum that is more dedicated to the Vikings and their adventures.

From Scandinavia

Monday the day of reckoning (for the bike)???????????

Got up bloody early again, thought it was holidays and we could sleep in every day. Caught the bus into Uppsala and to the motorbike shop. Now I can tell you about the little racket we were running because we are not there anymore. On the buses here you buy a ticket at a pretty steep price and you can use it for 1 hour 30 minutes. Then you are suppose to purchase another and another and so on. Bron and I figured out that if we purchased one in the morning we could work it as a 24 hour ticket. It worked and this morning when we went to buy a ticket from the bus driver we only had a 500 kroner note so he said don't worry about paying so we were able to travel this wonderful public transport system at a very reasonable price.

We got to the motorbike shop at 9am as we had booked the transport for the bike at 9.30. I ws finding things a bit tough when at 1.30 the truck came to pick up the bike. He only wanted to take us to the little Suzuki shop but when I insisted he took us to the big Suzuki shop near Stockholm. Bron had to go back to camp as he only had 2 seats in his truck. Once we got chatting in the truck we had a great time, he was telling me about his trips to America, his life as a tow truck driver and how difficult his job can be in winter here. His father was also a towie and had handed down the business to his son. The trip to Stockholm was over before we knew it and then onto sorting out the bike and diagnosing the issue. The cheif mechanic initially said that they were booked up for the next 3 weeks and wouldn't be able to look at the bike but then with some sweet talk he came out and had a quick look at the bike. He was surprise as he said nothing goes wrong with the Vstrom but after telling him what had happened, what we had done to find it he said it must be a broken wire between the ignition key and the fuse box. I immediately started to dismantle the bike once again and focused mainly on getting to the area he had described. After 45 minutes or so I had dug deep enough to get to the wires and plugs behind the radiator and here was where the issue was. The main ignition cable plug although looking fine was not pushed toghether properly and had had some carbon build up from the arcing of the electrical circuit. it took a while to get it undone because the arcing had ceased the joint together. After cleaning it, and putting soome grease on it the ignition switch worked for the first time in 3 days. But the bike still wouldn't start and now there was an error message on the instrument panel. Uh Oh.

This is where a mechanic with lots of experience with these bikes, earns his keep. I went back to the workshop and asked the mechanic what an F1 error meant. He said that this was a MAJOR error and he came out to check on what damage I had done to the bike. He showed me how to cross over 2 points on a plug to get more information from the onboard computer and then within 30 seconds he had fixed the problem which was the bike fallover switch which had been putback on the bike updide down. Now that would have taken me hours to figure out. How fortunate am I. Just as I was getting the bike into working order I had a phone call from Carol Nash insurance brokers asking how I was proceeding with fixing the bike and would I be needing a rental car or any other assistance from them. Wonderful service, I am very pleased with how they were and the way I was treated by them.

So that is the how the Bike was sorted. Total cost some bus tickets, a couple of little Koalas for the mechanics, and some time I was hoping to spend with James out the window. So I can make up the time with James over the next day or so and everything else worked out better than I could possibly have imagined. Before leaving I watch the Horizons unlimited motorcycle travel DVD series, and one of the title headings was Breakdowns. The people being interveiwed talked about their experience of mechanical breakdowns with fond memories and at the time I can remember thinking I would rather not have any breakdowns, but I now have an understanding of what they were talking about. My experience of the breakdown in Uppsala was one of fantastic memories, the people I met, what I learnt, what I saw and how I felt was all what travelling the world is about. Helping others brings out the best in people, given the opportunity most people want to help you it helps them feel good and helps the recipient feel good. If given the choice whether to break down again or have a trip without any mechanical hitches I don't know what I would choose. It just feels really nice at the moment having been cared for by so many people when I needed help.

Anyway rode back to Uppsala and the bike was running pretty poorly from the 85 octane fuel that I had put in. I topped it up with 98 octane but not enough to make it run as we'll as it can.

Brons face was full of smiles when I rolled up back at the camping ground with the bike. Spagetti for tea, I am very, very tired but maybe I feel like I can relax now knowing that no matter what happens everything will be ok.

Tuesday

Had a bit of a sleep in after a few early starts the last few days.

Spent the first few hours putting the bike back together after having to dismantle most of the fairing and panniers to get to the wiring problem. I am sure glad that Gunny has trained me well with cable ties, Locktite and gaffer tape. so now we are ready for the road again. We went to the Sweden equivalent of Bunnings to get a couple of things, oh it was a renovaters paradise. The range and quality was amazing. Then on to Ikea for lunch ( can't go to Sweden without going to Ikea) We had the traditional meatballs, cranberrie sauce and Mashed potato. Lovely.

Then I caught up with James while Bron went to the Botanical Gardens (She said they were fantastic) It was really nice to spend some time with James, we often have really nice chats, then Anna came around and spent some time with us before she travels home to Czech tomorrow.

I picked Bron up from her jaunt through the gardens and we went back to James for Pizza.

From Scandinavia

As I sit here up at the outside kitchen table about 50 metres from our tent, overlooking the lake that looks a picture with its mirror image surrface, lined with trees, swans swaning around as they do I think of the experience of Uppsala and Sweden so far and I think When we move on tomorrow and ride north I will be sad to leave this place. It has changed the trip for me. I feel different, I feel much more at peace.

From Scandinavia

We packed up and got on the road at about 9.30 am. Headed to James to say seeya and then on the highway north. So nice to be back on the road.

About 100kms north Uppsala we stopped in the middle of nowhere at a wayside stop that was setup as a chinese healing centre, restaurant and conference centre. Somene had spent a fortune. We had a look around and decided to have some morning tea/lunch. This is where the trouble began. It was a buffet at 118kr per head ($20) and we didnt want much as it was early, I said to Bron let's get one between us, and so we did. We sat down and we were spotted by the waitress sharing our food, oh no, The boss came over to us and explained that the price was per head and we should pay twice, I said that I would not eat then and then went out to the bike got a plastic bag and got Bron to take a doggy bag out to me in the car park.

Next stop was for fuel, the bike had not been running well since I put the E85 fuel in and it sure was releived to have some decent stuff, I wasn't sure whether it was missing because of the fuel or because of the ignition wire still being faulty so it was a relief that it started to run really well with the change of fuel.

About 200kms out of Uppsala the scenery started changing along with the house colors. There is still plenty of the red houses but more other colors. Also the forests became thicker and more vast with towns further away from each other. Gettting closer to the coast brought more and more beautiful scenes of lakes, forests and sky. The typical Swedish countryside has changed and gone away fom the intensve agrigculture of the south.

Along th way we came across an interesting building behind a church, we decided to stop and have a look, the building at the back was a keep or store and was quite an interesting construction but on going into the church we realised we had stumbled on a little treasure. The church was built in the 13th century and had a very ornate interior. The graves outside were quite old but couldn't find one that was as old as the church.

The rest of the day was through lovely scenery and we ended up near Herskog for the night. A really nice spot on a lake. Had a nice 2-3 km walk around the area and Bron was amazed at the variety of plants on the roadside. Then we came across a goose stranded in some plastice netting, so I had to do a dash back to camp to get the trusty pocket knife to cut the goose out. Then back to camp for a well earned rest.

10/6/10

thursday

Staying in Finland tonight. Crossed the border a few hours ago. Lovely river frontage with lots and lots of Mozzies to help with tea and the dishes. We had a little row in someones boat on the river, yes we did get permission, at first we thought we were in trouble but the people were really friendly and said to take the boat for a row if we wanted to.

Today we did 700kms. The forecast is for rain tomorrow and when it rains this far north it is extreemely cool, so we thought we would do extra kms today and if it is cool tomorrow we can have lots of warm up breaks.

As for Sweden, lovely place, really enjoyed it there. People were really hospitable helpful and welcoming. Some beautiful scenery, nice sites of interest and James was there of course.

The roads are good but lots of Volvo drivers make the roads interesting at times. Ridiculous speed limits that are constantly changing make riding here hard work at times.

All up enjoyed Sweden immensely.

!1/6/10

Rode fom camping spot into Rovaniemi. Just north of this town is where Santa is supposed to have come from. It is also where we are entering the Artic Circle. We are fortunate as the weather threatens to turn all day but stays dry and tail or side winds blow us in the right direction.

Santas home and the artic circle centre are mostly a mix of tourist shops. Some nice things but we have no where to fit much stuff so come away with just a couple of stickers for the bike and a tshirt for Bron. Sent a couple of postcards from Santas post office.

From Scandinavia

North from Rovaniemi is mainly forest with some small agricultural holdings. Small towns dotted here and there. They are only just planting now so only have a really short growing period but I suppose the sun shines nearly 24hours a day here so they may be able to grow crops really well. The small portion of Finland we saw seemed nice. Nothing spectacular but pretty in parts.

The amazing thing is when we crossed into Norway within 10kms of the border was our first absolutely spectactular sight. Snow capped mountains with lakes and forests below. Absolutely breathtaking.

From Scandinavia

We are camped in another freecamp tonight. It seems this is an old army training area and scattered around are dugouts and machine gun placements.

We didn't see the sign as we came of the road to say no parking or camping. Must have missed it.

Lovely spot though. Not on the lake tonight but a nice sheltered spot a few hundred metres from the main road.

From Scandinavia

12/6/2010

Woke up and got going early today athough we didn't have far to travel. The Norwegian countryside has improved if anything. The veiws are continually breathtaking. It is pretty cold a strong wind blows us about but nothing takes away from the continual flow of landscape into that part of me that says this is one of the most beautiful sights my eyes have seen.

Snow capped mountains jutting out of the sea, rugged coastline at every corner, and there are heaps of them, there is a new veiw to challenge my eyes.

Just to challenge me that little bit more we throw in the stong wind, the reindeer, the rough road, the busses and campers coming the other way,

The reindeer are everywhere, more than Santa could poke a stick at. Lots of small calves to some large bulls.

I thought we would have to catch a ferry across to the island that Nordkapp is on but as we got closer there was a tunnel that went down under the sea and across to the island. The Norwegians sure know how to impress someone.

Speaking of impressed, I sure am impressed at the prices of things. I don't think we in Aus could charge the prices here and get away with staying in business, we bought 2 hamburgers with chips and 350ml soft drinks the price came to the equivalant of $42 australian. I don't think we will eat out much. Although the grocery prices are not really impressive either, with some thick and chunky soup (equivalent we think) costing $7 Aus. Then for the camping, they charge for the tent then charge for the person then charge for the showers. I suppose the toilet is free with the camping costs. All up the camping here for 1 night is over $50 aus.

To continue my winge about prices we made the trip out to Nordcapp this afternoon and to go the last 100meters they wanted $40 each to enter the northern most tip of the European continent. Unbeleivable. All you get for your money is the chance to be ripped of at the restaurant and veiwing platform. Needless to say we parked the bike away from the area and walked the long way around.

It is nice to have a shower after free camping the last 2 nights.

Have to get up early to catch the ferry tomorrow.

13/06/10 Sunday

Got up at 4.30am so we could cach the ferry at 6am. Bit of a rough night because there were arrivals at the camping park as late as 1am. Then there was rain at 3am so our first night in civilisation for a few nights wasn't the best. I suppose because it doesn't get dark here, people just drive until they feel like stopping instead of drive until a couple of hours before dark.

We had breaky packed up and got to the ferry just in time to board.

The ferry was initially full of kids (who were also at the camp ground) who were full of beans, so initial impressions were not the best. We found a quite spot (in a bar) away from the crowd and settled in for the 13 hour journey. The ship was pretty luxurious as it is used for cruises for retiries to travel up and down the coast of Norway, that would be why it was pretty expensive($400 Aus) Food was pretty rich but we had a free lunch of soup and bread ( at least I think it was free). Caught up on a bit of sleep and had a nice time relaxing walking around the different decks looking at the different retirement lifestyles of the Europeans.

The outer decks were lovely with deck chairs and blankets supplied, it was lovely sitting there looking out at the snow capped mountains coming down to the sea. Beautiful, just beautiful.

After spending the day on the ship I was ready to get off. I felt pretty restricted even though it was a nice experience. It help me understand at a deeper level why I love riding motorcycles across this sort of country. Bron and I discussed it and we both felt like we were looking at a picture all day where as when we are on the bike we are exeriencing the picture, we are part of it. Sure when it is cold or hot, wet or windy, we winge a bit but when we look back they are just as good ( and sometimes better days) as every other day. The sunshine does help the mood as well as the scenes.

Sure riding a push bike or walking would be a more in depth experience but I don't want to spend the time going that deep thanks. Speaking of pushbike riders, I was talking to a older couple ( early 60,s) who had ridden up from Holland over the last 6 weeks ( 300kms I think they said) and they were telling me about a couple of their experiences which were not so enjoyable. One was in the tunnel across to the island Northcapp is on, the gradient coming out of the middle of the tunnel was 10deg and they had to push their fully loaded bikes all of the way ( 3km ) and the other little jaunt they did was with unloaded bikes out to Northcapp itself. The tip of Europe is approx 32kms from the camp and they set out in the morning to ride there and back. The wind and rain was so heavy and the hills were so steep that hey had to walk 22km of the way there and 18km on the way back. It took them 8hours what we did in 1.5 hours. They can have that all too themselves.

On arrival at Skjervoy (7pm) we had a quick look around town and headed out to find a free camp for the night. Found a lovely spot ( bit of a rough bridge) just out of town in a old quarry. Panoramic veiws of the fjord with a mountain stream 20mtrs fom the tent. Snow capped mountains all around.

Monday 14th June

Travelled from our little idealic camp spot down to Ballangen today. This took us over mountain passes with snow all around and icy lakes. yes it was rather cool. Challenged what I said yesterday but Bron piped up while we were going across a pass with snow and ice all around and rain pouring down and she said this will be a day we will remember, and of course she was right. We made it through and are staying at a nice little campground on you guessed it a fjord. Waterfalls that we would call magnificent and have signs up everywhere with tourist brochures and posters in everyplace imaginable don't even rate a mention here because there are so many of them. They could do something about the weather though, it does deter some tourists. (we are still in the artic circle.)

The whole culture is built around fishing, or should I say the water. Along the coast there are fishing villages, with little huts, boats and fish drying racks. We saw some Tuna farms and some small industrial buldings.

The only wildlife we saw is when a Sea Eagle and us took the same path, the Eagle about 20metres away flying along the water and us along the road. This went on for a 100meters or so until he was harrassed by a couple of smaller birds and flew out to sea. Lovely.
From Scandinavia

15/6/10

Late start after a sleep in. It was nice to lay in but only did just over 300km. The tunnels here are amazing. They are a major part of the road system but can be quite scary at times, for example we were riding along doing 80-90kmh when suddenly a tunnel comes up mid corner, the tunnel continues around a corner with the road condition deterieorating rapidly and a big truck with its wheels on our side of the road coming towards us, feels like we are scraping the sides of the tunnel but we had plenty to spare in reality. ( at least that is what I thought when I opened my eyes). Some more lovely scenery. Riding at snow level again but not as cold. (around 10deg) Had nice rivers running along the side of the road, lots of rapids and large rocks in the river.

We came out of the artic circle today. Called in at the tourist spot to mark the place where the artic circle stops and met a lovely german couple on 2 suzuki DR650 equivalants. We talked to them for quite a while then looked around and headed on. The meeting reminded me of meeting Jutta and Harold all those years ago. It was nice to chat to some other Bikers.

Staying at a campground tonight as we looked for a free camp but couldn't find one, unusual but true.

Wed 16th

Rode about 550kms today. Had to pack up in the rain for the first time. It worked really well because we discussed the best way to acheive packing up without too much stress. The weather improved throughout the day and we only had a little rain. Today was a day of rivers and valleys, It is amazing how the landscape changes from day to day. We saw our first wild Moose, a cow with a calf. Traffic is getting really busy and it takes lots of concentration to ride here with the poor roads and constant corners, and the weather. We travelled through a long tunnel today, 8kms long.

Ended the day near Trondheim camping on the lake.

The owner come manager of the park was an old dear. We got chatting to her and she was telling us about her 15 day trip to Australia.

On investigation trough her, she also told us about the history of the campground. In the centre of the campground there is a large hill, throughout this hill there are a system of tunnels. When we enquired with her she was saying that the tunnels were dug in world war 2, by the russian and Norwegian prisoners of war, as the camp was a prisoner of war camp during the German occupation.

Thursday 17th

Travelled to a nice campground near Andalsnes today. weather deteriorated so we wimped out for the first time in 3 weeks and stayed in a cabin.

Went into Trondheim this morning and didnt find anything to extraordinary to look at but maybe the weather and being in a large city again just turned us of a bit. The day was a mixed bag with coast roads, forests and mountains. All were lovely and Bron and I were able to keep pretty positive despite the wind and rain. We stopped at a wayside stop and a local reporter came up to us and asked some questions about what we thought of the wayside stops, We helped her out for her story and she took some photos, so now we are local celebrities.

It was nice to be undercover in the little 3m x 3m cabin for the night. Nice and warm, dry and able to get all of our cloths dry.

Friday 18/6

Woke up to a wet and windy day.Bron and I discussed staying in the cabin for the day but chose to ride on. Packed up late and took of on our route up one of the tourists roads on our map. Well what an adventure this turned out to be. So far I think this road had been one of the major visual highlights of the trip. I have seen many waterfalls in my life but this road had the pearler of them all. The road zig zagged every hundred metres or so and there were waterfalls unning through and around the road at various points with bridges built over the waterfall at various points. Absolutely amazing. At the top of the waterfall the snow began, It was falling from the sky and up to 6 foot deep on the ground. Lucky we were not too cold. We really enjoyed the road.

The rest of the day was spent riding to Aldesund and looking around then riding down some more tourist roads. No more spectacular veiws, the rain and wind had settled in for the day. We were cold and wet so wimped out again and stayed in another cabin. Hope this doesnt become a habit.

From Scandinavia

Saturday 19th

It finally dried out today. Took till mid morning for the sun to poke through the clouds but when it shone it felt so good. It was nice to be able to see the tops of mountains, they are still snow capped and are quite special mixed among the fjords. The Fjords change color to a lovlely aqua with the sun as well. All adds up to more amazing scenery. I was thinking about it today and it came to me that if I had to describe Norway to some one i would compare Norway to either a women or a car. To be less contriversial I will choose a car. Then think of the most beautiful car you can think of, then think of why you dont own it and that may tell you a bit about Norway.

Caught 2 ferries today, it all adds up with each one costing 12 aus dollars for a 10 minute ride across a fjord.

The camp spot tonight is another glorious one, with a 6 switchback road 100meres away, 2 waterfalls one each side of us, 6 little traditional cottages all around us and we are just below the snow line looking down a beautiful valley. And it is sunny.

Sunday 20th

Slept in a bit, hard to pack up from such a nice spot. Sun out and beating down on us, it feels so nice after a few rainy days.

The road down the mountain was glorious, then we hit the main road into Bergen. Bumper to bumper at 60-70kms an hour for the next 100kms. It was soooooooo tiring. Tunnels made it even harder, adjusting to the different light conditions. I cant beleive the ridiculous speed limits here. Even the Norwegians think they are too slow. So after a couple of hours we got into Bergen. A nice city with lots of history. As a modern city it is setout well with achitecture that reminds me of what I have seen in America. Who copied who I dont know but lots of similarities. The town itself has lots of malls and cobblestone streets, down on the wharfside there are lots of very aged buildings (timber) that look like they are falling down. The gardens were nice but nothing startling. We spent a few hours wandering around looking at the sights then headed out of town looking for a camping spot. Took a while to find somewhere to camp but found a lovely spot on a fjord with snow capped mountains on either side.

From Scandinavia

Monday 21st.

An absolutly stunning morning. The wate in the Fjords and lakes was like miro glass,eflecting the snow capped mountains. What a way to finish of our tip to Norway. On the road down to Kristiantown we passed a myriad of beautiful watefalls that were varied in their flow and height but not in their beauty. The last 100kms or so the scenery levelled out to just pretty, we have been spoilt the last couple of weeks. Stayng in Kristiantown tonight and have an early ferry in the morning.

From Scandinavia

Reflections on Norway.

The intensity of Norway's beauty i amazing. It seems at every turn their is anew scene for the eyes to devour. I cannot explin how georgeous this place is. Even through the cold wet days this place's visual aspects, really shone though. Where it fell down or where I struggled with Norway is the cost of everything here. Absolutely crazy. I dont know whether I resent the cost from jealousy or from the point of veiw of money for the rest of the trip. The roads are terrible, the speed limits are maddening. Was coming here worth it. Yes, yes, yes just wish our dollar was worth more against the Krone.

And wish the weather could be better whenever we visit again.

Tuesday 22nd.

Got up early to catch the ferry to Denmark. Made it with plenty of time and got to Denmark at 11am. The ferry trip was probably the worst we have had so far. Very busy boat with wild kids running everywhere. Basically go of the boat then headed south towards Germany and the Euro.

Loved Scandinavia in so many ways. Didnt feel quite at home as I do in Germany, I feel much more comfortabe with the Germany than I do in the Scandinavian countries. Cant put my finger on why but that is how I feel and that is that. Staying in a nice little park tonight and we are heading to Berlin tomorrow to change tyres and service the bike. We also need to update the blog and send some more stuff home.might even wash the old Vstrom.