Update from Baja

Well, we've been in Mexico for just a little under a week (at time of writing this). Without wishing to sound smug I'm writing this sitting with a beer beside me and looking out over the most idyllic bay I have ever seen (no exaggeration). Picture desert mountains of burnt umber and sage leading down to a perfect golden beach encircling almost completely a bay of deepest turquoise blue so still you'd think you could walk on the water. We have a room in a guest house and our door opens out onto that beach. We've been here two days and we haven't seen anyone else on this beach yet. It really is that idyllic.Having said all that we had to work to get here. The story of this place is that a lady called Alfonsina flew down here about 50 years ago with a pilot friend of hers, landed on the beach and stayed. He dug out a dirt runway and she built a guest house. Now most people who make it here fly in. About 20 years ago the Mexico government started to put a road in past here. 53 miles up the road and 19 years ago they gave up. There's a gravel bed etched out of the desert and that's it. We don't have a plan so we rode here at a top speed of 15-mph. The sweat evaporated out of our pores before it had chance to settle on our skin and we had to stop and let the bike cool down every few miles. For much of the way the gravel bed doesn't exist anymore. Its just dust and rock. We had to cross a couple of dry lake beds and ride down some steep descents. This place is somewhat on the remote side. Tomorrow we have to ride another 83 miles of the same again to get to the highway south of here. If we can't get through we'll have to come back the way we came. Should be interesting.

Mexico is an amazing place. We crossed the boarder at Tecate and rode down to San Filipe via Ensenada before coming here. We've come maybe 400 miles or so since crossing into Mexico. The roads are best described as adventurous. Mexican drivers have a style all of their own - using both lanes (if they exist) simultaneously. The greater danger on the roads are the Americans. Its currently Spring Break and they all head down this way and throw out the rule book. Speeding, drink driving, drugs, it all goes here as far as they're concerned. I'd rather have the Mexicans.

Its a place of extremes. The towns are basic at best. People are incredibly friendly or murderers slight exaggeration perhaps!). The scenery is either squalor or splendor. Whatever it is its not a place to be rushed though. We've only just arrived in Mexico and seen very little of it so far but if the bit we have seen is an indication of the rest I think we'll be here for a while. Well, upto 180 days anyway.