About to start my journey, riding solo from Chennai, India to the UK. I'll be travelling through India, Pakistan, Iran, Turkey and Europe over 3 months. My bike is a Suzuki DL650 Vstrom 2008. Its currently being shipped to Chennai from Auckland NZ. I'm leaving Auckland on 14 June and will spend a couple of days in Kuala Lumpur before getting to India to pick up the bike which is due to arrive on 18 June (hopefully!).
Just one hour before I leave to catch my flight to KL.
I would just like to thank all those people who have phoned, texted and emailed giving me their best wishes and support.
I have tried to keep this trip low key (as much as you can) and have shied away from leaving parties etc.
Your support has been I must say,unexpected and quite overwhelming.
Thank you all
Kia Kaha
I need to point out that this is, I think, my 4th trip to India and I love the people and the country,what I had forgotten was quickly realized on boarding the plane in KL.
I thought that the flight would be half empty, but that idea changed as soon as the call came to board.... a mass of Indians charged for the gateway to get on the plane blocking the doorway as stewards tried in vain to take control.
Oh yes that's the India I remember.
Arrived in KL, 30C temp. welcome after 14C in Auckland.
Stayed in nice hotel and didn't venture far from shops and swimming pool.
2 nice days just relaxing and looking forward to getting to Chennai and starting the trip proper.
Got a surprise when checking in at the airport, I was 8kg over the limit and was charged heavily for it.
Quick 3.5 hour flight to India
Great news after a incredibly trying day I have my bike
The details of my day are too long to go into right now, I will do later
I'm shattered and am going to bed.
I'm heading off tomorrow early morning.
Finally after all this time and numerous frustrations, I'm about to get underway...
First I promise to mention clearing the bike yesterday.......
No surprise it took all day, getting security pass to go into secure customs warehouse, meeting customs officer and all his helpers, locating the bike crate, then opening it.
As soon as the crate was opened at least a dozen workers all gathered round poking and playing with every part of the bike. This is something I'll have to get used to.
Anyway after about 6hrs I had the bike assembled and rode out off there.
trying tocatch up and i"ve got little time till internet closes
rode from Vijay to Hydrabad lovely city and stayed the night long ride on bumpy road
today I rode from Hydrabad to Nagpur long way ( keyboard won"t do numbers)
Had everything great bit of motorway then the most terrible road you could see
Also had major rain storm with very strong winds luckily I was coming into small town so took shelter< captured on video > stopped for about half hour then it stopped as quickly as it came
Great great days ride best yet
Rode from Ngapur to Katni stayed night and left at 6am for the approx 500km to Varanasi.
My worse day so far, for the first time I started having doubts whether I can actually do this. India is in the middle of a heat wave, monsoon is late, water is scarce (people have died fighting over it) and there is civil unrest in Delhi and other parts of the country all over water. Google it....
It is sooo hot, official temp. in Varanasi yesterday 45C my thermometer gave up and 50C now longer works (yes it was in sunlight but so am I)
Namaste
Agra to Delhi is only 200km on 2x2 lane road so I left early to arrive before it got too hot. Didn't allow for traffic (probably busiest road in India) and took longer than I hoped.
It's been a few days since i have been able to get on the internet.
Stayed only one night in Delhi and headed to Chandigarh, wow what a fantastic city.
It was built after partition and is beautifully designed big wide tree lined streets set out on a grid, it's the only city so far where i haven't had to ask for directions to get to my hotel. even though I only stayed one night i had a good look around before I left. Lots of gardens and sculptures, very modern as are the people also I couldn't get over how quiet the city is compared to others (no traffic noise).
Here I am in Lahore, feels like dark side of the moon as far as communications go.
I had a very easy crossing of the border, very quick got carnet (bike passport) stamped out of India and into Pakistan no problems. No one even bothered to check my luggage.
I have now been in Lahore for 2 days and must say that I'm pleasantly surprised, Lahore is probably the most liberal and cultural city in Pakistan. The locals are very friendly and I am often invited to sit down and have a cup of tea.
The trip (409km) to Quetta will go down as one of the most differcult so far.
Escort was late and when it turned up sooooo slow, even had 2 guys on moped pass us. Leaving early was important because I was about to cross my first desert (Kachhi Desert) and I didn't want to arrive in the middle of the day, I did!.
Hi, we have contact......
A lot has happened since my last entry so I will go back to when I left Lahore and continue in a series of brief entries and then give my final impressions on Pakistan as a whole.
Had to make a tough decision and gave up doing the KKH not for security reasons, it is safe to do that route.
I had always been concerned about this part of the journey as it is the only route to the Pakistan border (Taftan), it is all desert, runs adjacent to the Afganistan border and is well known for it's security concerns. I had intended to join up with another biker to do this but of course no one here.
I set off early with escort again slow going (what can you do?).
What can you say?, Pakistan has problems as we are well aware. My personal belief is that they will get worse before they get better. I had a great time in Lahore apart from one incident which didn't concern a local. The scenery was fantastic, from the green of the Punjab to the isolation of the deserts. Did I enjoy Pakistan? well alot of the riding was very hard but that is why this is my adventure if I was shooting down motorways it would be boring and I had expected it to be hard, maybe not so hard. So from the riding side it was adventurous. BUT here's the thing....
Left the next morning for Sukker (478km) and again a great ride until about 75km outside of Sukker when I picked up my first police escort. To explain, escorts are a bit like the pony express. The police take your passport and you follow them for around 30 to 40 km when the next escort will take you onwards. Again I appreciate the efforts by the police to take care of me, but oh so slow!!! sometimes only doing 40km/hr. I actually joked with one english speaking officer that at this speed someone could walk up beside me and attack me and I'd rather take my chances at 120km/hr.
Easy border crossing into Iran. Welcome welcome everyone says.
Still had security to and from Zahedan all the way to Bam, but I'm told that is all over with now.
Zahedan felt like I was still in Pakistan, couldn't leave hotel even to go across the road to get some food. Police were called and they escorted me. Another tough ride through the desert but at least the roads are good.
As I mentioned previously I intended to only stay in Bam for one night, I have now been here three.
This is more for the Horizons Unlimited community but I just want to give them some up to date info on Bam.
A lot of overlanders seem to bypass Bam altogether when heading to or from the border and stay in Zahaden (bad choice).
Bam, even though still recovering from the tragic earthquake of 2003 has a lot to offer and despite what you might read in Lonely Planet has no security issues.
The ride to Shiraz, 580km, was one of the best so far (i've probably said that before), the scenery was unreal sort of semi desert / arid with mountain ranges, valleys and huge salt lake beds. For weeks now I have ridden long straight roads which stretch out to the horizon but this time I had mountain passes to cross and lots of twisties (bends, for non bikers. We love twisties.) It took a bit of getting used to as the bike felt quite light in the front end with the weight on the back and I had to be a bit cautious to start, but once i got the feel I was chucking it into those corners.
I was sorry to leave Bam I was so relaxed after Pakistan and had a good time there.
Lonely Planet suggests "don't even think about going to Yazd in hot season"
Red Rag... So now I have been here 3 days.
The ride from Shiraz again was amazing oh the scenery (it really is a shame that its so hard to download stills from my video, I have tried too slow internet)
Got up at 6am to hit the road and apart from the back (as mentioned) had an enjoyable ride cruising at around 130km/hr on long straight roads, actually toll roads which motorbikes aren't allowed on (Iranian) got stopped by police a couple of times but no problems (they really only want to look at the bike) and was waved through all of the toll booths..they didn't know what to charge and also the Iranians are just like that with foreigners.
Lonely Planet (LP) describes Esfahan : "Iran's masterpiece, the jewel of ancient Persia and one of the finest cities in the Islamic world". Now I definitely don't agree with LP all the time but I believe they have got it right this time. What an amazing place. Beautiful palaces, bridges, mosques and the stunning Imam Square. Not since the Taj Mahal have I been so impressed by architecture!.
Forgot to mention that whilst servicing the bike in Nowshahr I managed to have a wee accident when I put the bike on the stand it landed on my big toe and with 200kg of bike on it I was not happy. Anyway got to use the first aid kit for the first time.
Leaving Nowshahr I headed all the way around the Caspien Sea coast. What a waste of a good coast line the towns which line it were tatty and unappealing which surprised me because Iranian flock here for holidays. So with no nice place to stay I carried on to Rasht where I stayed for one night.
Wow Iran exceeded all my expectations. The people are generous and fantastic hosts
It is such a beautiful country and the towns and cities I visited all had a rich cultural heritage and many sites worth seeing. Some of them take your breath away. The scenery is diverse as you can get. I know I spent a lot of time riding through deserts but that doesn't mean that it's just barren with nothing to see it has it's own beauty, it's just that the roads are dead straight and it's just bloody hot.
Ý hope you apprecýate thýs as Ý was just about to fýnýsh thýs entry when the power went down and lost what Ý had wrýtten so here we go agaýn.
After 2 nýghts ýn Tabrýz (Ýran) Ý headed to the Turkýsh border, 250km.
Great rýde doýng such low km and the scenery was fantastýc especýally as Ý got closer to the border and snow covered (peak) Mt. Ararat came ýnto výew.
Hý team Ýt has been a few days since Ý made an entry on the blog but Ý have done some hard riding getting a few Km,s under my belt. Ý ended up going in the complete opposite direction Ý had initially planned to go. Fröm Doguhayazt Ý headed down to Lake Van (323km) A very scenic ride especýally once Ý got to the lake side, Thýs lake is huge and the water a very pretty lýght blue, great riding as the road followed the shoreline for over 200km, deserts? what deserts. Ý stayed the night on the far western edge at Tatvan.
Spent 3 wonderful day's in middle earth (goreme) and was then wanting to get back on the road.
As I saıd previously İ only stayed one nıght ın Antalya but Luıs (the bıker I met from Portugal) and I decıded to take a easy rıde up the coast to Olympos only an hour away. It was great rıdıng wıth someone else after all thıs tıme but I soon realısed why I was adamant from the begınıng that I was goıng to do thıs trıp alone. After a late nıght prevıous we had arranged to meet at breakfast and leave at a perfectly cıvıl tıme of around 10.30am. This is quite unusual for me as I try to set off early around 6 or 7am especially if I intend to ride a long distance.
I had a late night farewell diner with Luis as we were going or separate ways in the morning. We ended up having a few beers to many and as a result I left far too late to make the 7-800km ride to Istanbul. As a result I only did about 350km and headed for a little town on the coast Foca which is just north of Izmir.
A very picturesque fishing village which has turned itself over to tourism like most of their type in Turkey. A very scenic ride once off the main highway. It was quite relaxing walking along the shoreline after dinner taking in the cooler air.
When I was planning this trip I always had in mind that I would decide on my route through Europe once I got to Istanbul. Well I aren't going to Istanbul. I made this decision yesterday after considering a number of factors. I'm happy with the decision, however there is one problem. I was going to buy all my maps and guide book for Europe once in Istanbul.... I have managed to print off some pretty scratchy one half page maps from the internet but lack any real detail. I take back what I said about GPS!
Hi just a short update:
Entered Greece and spent the night in Alexandpoulis (check spelling) which is 40km from the border.
While in Thessaloniki I managed to buy a book of maps for Europe (not a great scale) and the Lonely Planet (LP) for Mediterranean Europe (in English). LP doesn't cover all the countries I want eg Austria Switzerland Germany but does cover the Balkin countries Albania, Montenegro, Croatia, Slovenia which I wanted. I may end up going through the top of Italy and France, both covered.
Hi all, before I update blog I just want to give a summary on Turkey
Got to say I really enjoyed the country It was a journey of contrasts from the Kurdish south eastern corner, to Cappadoccia (the real middle earth, a great highlight of the trip) to the southern coast (great beaches) and to finish it with a memorable visit to Galipolli.
I know I keep going on about it but, the only negative was the price of fuel, probably my biggest expense.
Well I didn't know anything about Albania before arriving here, and still don't know a lot except to say it's a bit like the wild west!.
I entered from Greece this morning after a few minor issues at the border(visa?, not required I said).
After getting cleared I headed off into the unknown, except I have known this before... India... shocking roads. One pot holed lane going through winding mountain passes is not fun especially when the locals consider that lane to belongs to them!
God it seems like ages ago since I was in Albania...
I had a interesting chat with a Albanian / Canadian guy on my last night in the country, I asked why if the country is so poor how come there are so many flash cars being driven around? The answer 2 reasons: organised crime and (related) most are stolen from other European countries. You see GB plated BMW's and Audi's everywhere the "owner" just can't take it out of Albania.
Seems ages ago since Albania
Rushed through Montenegro, 2 days, small country and quite nice. A lot more friendly and nice roads.
What was the last entry all about??
Sometimes I have tough days....
I got my A into G and rode over 450km to Zargreb the capital today, just what I needed.
What a great city, most tourists give the city a miss and head for the coast, which is probably why this place is so cool. Very pretty and only about 280,000 people.
Reminds me a bit like Wellington, size and feel, not the weather. Temps ever since I left Turkey have been in the 30's maybe a bit hotter on the coast.
I forgot to mention that in Zagreb I lost my Ipod, bloody annoying as I really miss having music while riding. You may remember that I put the Ipod as the number one thing that I brought with me on this trip.
Hi team
I have just spent the most wonderful 3 days riding the mountain passes of Italy.
I did a ride today that had 39 hairpin bends as the road reached up to 2700 metres it was fantastic so much so that I rode back down and did it again!
Hi All
Been another great few days (well except for today...rain)
I left the mountains of Austria and headed to Switzerland where of course there are more mountains. Headed to Zurich, wow what a beautiful location on the lake. On the way I had to go through a series of tunnels with the Altberg being the longest, 14km, of course I ended up sitting behind a great big lorry all the way belching out it´s diesel fumes, I thought I was going to pass out.
Left early the next morning as I wanted to make Calais and get on a ferry to England. The weather looked not to good so put in warm liner in my jacket (first time) and it wasn't long before it started to rain so had to stop and put on wet weather gear. Rained for a couple of hours and it was definately getting cooler. The worst thing was the wind, I was heading into a southwest gale (I later found out it was the tale end of a hurracane) and it was making riding really differcult and hard on the body.
Had a great afternoon in Heidelburg walking around the city,very laid back and nice sights. Had a good nights sleep on soft bed, a joy after camping. The next morning headed off to make some big km's and push on towards England.
