We took out our road map, and Juz set about the task of highlighting a route for us, taking us along a road recently named No 1 in the Top 7 Riding Roads of the World, from Coorg to MunnarWe took out our road map, and Juz set about the task of highlighting a route for us, taking us along a road recently named No 1 in the Top 7 Riding Roads of the World, from Coorg to Munnar.

“First, as you are here, you must go one at least one safari, maybe you can see Tigers, there have been some seen here quite recently, and leopards too. Very good chance. Tomorrow you can go early on the local safari and then see the elephants feeding, and in the afternoon come back to Bandipur and I will arrange some Safari for you’

We sat and sipped on more Pepsi and chatted until I could barely keep my eyes open. We set an ealy alarm so we could be at the Safari base in Mudemalai for 6am to catch the first safari and quickly crashed out.

We woke to an early mist, shrouding the distant mountains beyond our porch. We’d been too afraid to venture out in the evening after Juz’s warning about wondering tigers and rampant elephants. We dressed quickly, rode up to the village for a quick breakfast of Dosa- a rice flour crispy pancake, served with a spicy gravy and coconut chutney-and Indian-style coffee, super sweet and milky. Fed and watered , we set off for the safari office to wait for the first tour.

Apart from one other Spanish couple, we were alone. Juz had told us that we might have to wait for a bus to fill up , and we were just after the peak season, so there might be a wait. Fortunately, a group of 15 Indians turned up soon after us, giving the driver enough customers to head out.
Full of exitment, we pulled out of the gates, drove a little along the main road, before turning off into the dirt track leading us on a circuit through the reserve.

We slid open the windows and readied our cameras as the diesel powered bus chugged noisily through the forest. The driver slowed and his mate pointed to a Gour, a member of the Bison family, we poiented and shout our little pocket cameras as large zoom protruded from the windows to our rear. We moved on,eyes scanning the forest for movement. Langor and Bonnet Mocock Monkeys jumped from branch to branch or sat by the track, munching bananas, but no tigers, and no leopards, we rolled on along the circuit, the driver slowed once or twice more for some exotic birds, before we re-joined the highwayand returned, somewhat disappointed by the lack of wildlife.

Our ticket included entrance to the elephant park, and we scurried up the hill to the gates to get in for feeding time.

Lined up, in khaki uniforms, the chefs in the hut made the elephants meals, football-sized balls of rice, raggy and salt.

The elpephants were led or rode in by their Mahouts, while others simple strolled up to the barrier, lifting their trunks and opeing their mouths, the waited patiently for their feed. The khaki clad wardens shoved the giant rice balls right into the elephants mouths.

We stood and watched in awe of these mammouth animals, lifted their trunks and ate their fill.

The elephants were majestic,and more than made up for the lack of wildlife spotting on our safari. After a quick rest and some grub, we were back on the bikes again riding back to Bandipur to go on our safari proper. The morining run was cheap and cheerful, a bus full of Indians and us, following a circuit and hoping for the best. Juz’s safari was going to be different. We were sharing with one other, a hardcore wildlife photographer named JIMS-(Jesus is my saviour) his huge camouflage lens rsted on a cushion between the front seats, aa well known local Tiger tracker sat next to the driver, who himself knew the reserve like the back of his hand. We had high hopes, even though Juz kept reminding us that seeing anything was alwys a matter of chance.

Our Jeep was free to roam over any of the miriad of tracks running through the reserve. We listened to the other rangers radios to hear where the last tigers had been spotted,a nd headed westward. Juz and JIMS had taken a safari that morning and had seen a leopard that was so close JIMS’ zoom lens was unable to focus.

We trundled off around the reserve, again, monkeys were everywhere, we spotted a viper in the grass, and at one point found tiger tracks., causing quiet excitement to run through the occupants of the Jeep. The driver put the jeep in reverse, followed the tracks until they went off into the undergrowth. He turned the engine off and we sat silently and waited, JIMS and Juz’s long lenses at the ready, but the elusive tiger was nowhere to be seen. We listened to more buzz on the CB radio, and drove off again , in search of the big cats.

The ride was beautiful, the sun was setting and deer were everywhere. Butterflies foated around us, and monkeys played in the setting sun. With the sun almost gone, we drove back the track , up on to the highway and back to the Safari office. The lack of tigers and elephants was a bit sad for sure, but the ride through the reserve had been beautiful nonetheless, and we could feel a bond forming between us and our new pal, Juz.

We followed him, riding 2 up on the classic as Juz rode on the mule and led us back out of the reserve and back to our lodgings, where Juz had taken the room next to us.

We sat out on the porch, smoking cheap Indian cigarettes and sipping on Pepsi as we swopped bike tales and travel stories and compared Western ways to those of the Indian. Juz’s girlfriend was German, and he luaghed heartliy as he told of of his gorlfriends shock and horro and some Indian customs, mainly the hoarse caughing up of huge lumps of phlegm and the habit of I ndian men to squat and do their business far too openly for her liking.

-You two could be brothers- remarked Phoebe as we chatted on the porch of our country cottage, referring to Juz and I finishing each others sentences and seemingly sharing he same sense of humor.
-Brothers from another mother, I said, again Juz burst out laughing.
-You know this route I have been telling you about, he said,I have no clients for safari this week- and you guys are so funny, is it fine with you if I come?
-Fine? I exclaimed, -its bloody brilliant, I looked over at Phoebe who was nodding her head , a huge grin across her face.

So I’ll go to bed, we’ll leave early, get some breakfast in town, and take the road, I hope you like hairpins. Phoebe and I were overjioyed with this news, our own private guide, a man who knew these roads inside out and wanted to take us to see the ‘best bits of the south’. We couldn’t be happier. Juz’s smile was infectious, he was full of witty insights into Indian ways, and had some great stories to tell.