Memory Lane

We had left Khon Kaen on Wednesday and it’s now Sunday morning and we need to get to Bangkok by Monday. We are getting a bit bored with the 323, so after filling up with fuel, decide to re-do the memory lane thing and head north back to the 4041 around the southern most tip of the Dam we had crossed on Friday.

On Xmas Day in 2006, we had ridden on the little Tigerbike north to wards the 4041 alongside the Dam and had a wonderful Fish dish on a row of 5 floating houses, still under development. We vaguely remembered the place being called ‘Heaven on Earth’ and being alarmed at floating out further and further into the Dam as more and more floating houses were added. By the end of the lunch we were in 7 houses into the Dam. We set off to find it again. And there it was, now a ginormous WaterPark with over 100 floating houses and a huge reception area and carpark and called ‘Lake Heaven’. It was packed with families swimming, eating, lugging wheely-suitcases and one cup of coffee cost us 40baht. On Boxing Day, in 2006, we had also ridden north alongside the Dam, and found a place called Ark Adventure. The owner was in Sweden, but with his permission granted over a long-distance call, from his staff, we were allowed camp on his boat deck over the dam. “It would be nice to find it again”. The road was a bit more remote than we remembered and we passed another ferry port, transporting cars and people over a narrow section, making a shortcut to the road opposite. As more people used the ferry, the remaining concrete road was becoming neglected, strewn with piles of large dry orange leaves and huge elephant droppings. It was becoming clear to us that maybe this road was not used by cars/bikes anymore. We carried on cautiously, passing a parks department gateway and with relief just as we were getting hungry for lunch, a blue handwritten sign beckoned for us to turn left to Moonlight Bay. What a beautiful retreat. We made friends with the two retired spinster sisters and asked about the elephant droppings. “Yes,” they assured us, “that road is very dangerous, it is only used by wild elephants now, you cannot go there, especially in the mornings.” Oops, we just did that. “In the afternoons the elephants go back into the forest. And sometimes in the evening you can see them on the opposite side drinking ”.

We inquire about accommodation, but unfortunately they are full, however are quite happy for us to pitch our tent. We thank them, but continue on our way along the dam, hoping to find Ark Adventure. There are a few very pricey meditation resorts, all beautifully designed and for the 5-star tourists. We cannot find Ark Adventure so turn back and are welcomed back at Moonlight Bay. Our little tent is cuddled up under a tree, we scan the opposite bank hoping the elephants will drink tonight, and watch the moon rise over the water. Moonlight Bay place uses solar panels for electricity as there is no wi-fi or telephone signal. This is a real meditation retreat, all for 100 baht.

The other guests inform us that it is a long weekend, which is why everything is full and advise against riding into Bangkok on Monday as the traffic will be horrendous. Change of plan, we’ll go to Bangkok on Tuesday, then. We are given a lovely soft mattress to lie on, and using our beach mat as a indoor roof, we sleep well. We are getting to know this area very well now, back up the dam road, over the 4041, down passed Nong Prue.

Having heard about Ayuthaya and seeing that it is only 78 kms north of Bangkok, in a fairly straight line on the map from where we are, we aim our bike in that direction.It is flat, boring, and very windy. The wind burns B’s eyes so he puts mask over the lower edge of his visor, making a not very effective full face helmet arrangement. I nod off and have a secret power nap, until our helmets bonk and wake me up. Two night sleeping on the ground in a little tent are catching us out. As we pull into the centre of Ayuthaya, over the moat, we see a sign. Grandparent’s Home. That’s it. We stop , pay for two nights and have a afternoon kip, just like all grandparents do.