A Travel Story by Daniel Shell & Jaquie Brazier
As I lay in bed on, Sunday morning, nursing my burnt lip, aching bones and blackened eyes, the realisation of the sheer immensity of what we had taken on hit me like a ton of bricks.
Picking up our road Glide in Tampa
Leaving Key WestLeaving Key West, we motored back along US1, stopping fro a delicious fish sandwich at Porkys by the sea at Key Largo, we rode along at a slow pace, enjoying our thin roadway with blue water on either side until we came across the John Pennicamp national park, where Jacquie had found a place for us to snorkel on continental USAs largest reef.
After a great ride along the dead straight, and, as it turned out, very aptly named Alligator Alley, we arrived back in VeniceAfter a great ride along the dead straight, and, as it turned out, very aptly named Alligator Alley, we arrived back in Venice to rest, recoup and re-organise after our trial run while we waited for the insurance papers and the new GPS system to arrive.
TEXAS
Texas is big! One of the first things we saw after crossing the state line was a road sign, bearing the news, El Paso 857milesTEXAS
Texas is big! One of the first things we saw after crossing the state line was a road sign, bearing the news, El Paso 857miles
We had really wanted to get to New Orleans that night, but what with our unexpected and elongated trip to the USS Alabama, and a good 100 or more miles before New Orleans, we decided instead to cut an early break, and rode down to Biloxi to find a place to stop for the night. Biloxi, was, for want of a better word, bollocks.
Christmas was drawing near, so we decided to spend it here in Big Bend with our new friendsChristmas was drawing near, so we decided to spend it here in Big Bend with our new friends. We hung around the ranch, rode around on the bike, took Chris Cadillac out for a little spin, and spent time with Voni and Paul.
We rode on for some 45 minutes or so before we turned left at a junction and were presented with Bandera.
We simply had to stop here. We hadnt expected this. Bandera was like a real Western town.We were ecstatic about finally travelling off the interstate, and as we rode further west away from San Antonio, the road became less and less congested, and more and more twisty. At last!
Once again we set about finding ingenious ways of drying our damp clothes in our motel roomOnce again we set about finding ingenious ways of drying our damp clothes in our motel room, got down to uploading our photos and carrying on our ritual of going through the photos of the day, deleting, straightening and fixing, separating the good from the bad, looking through the map, to see how far we had come, and how far we had to go, and checking the weather forecast before collapsing on the bed in preparation for the day ahead.
San Antonio, also known as the gateway to the West, was to be out last city for a while.SAN ANTONIO
The following day was no better. 33 degrees, foggy and really quite depressing..The following day was no better. 33 degrees, foggy and really quite depressing, but nonetheless, it was time to go, we needed to get on the road and put down some miles. We decided that there would be no point in riding the roads that everyone had raved about as we wouldnt be able to appreciate it in the cold and with very low visibility.
The directions gave us some clue as to how sparsely populated and undeveloped Big Bend was....The directions gave us some clue as to how sparsely populated and undeveloped Big Bend was.
Paul told us to clock 52.5 miles south of the railroad at Alpine, and look for a house on the left, and sure enough after 52.5 miles, and after passing maybe three buildings, we came across the Adobe, standing alone.
The next day we were picked up again by Voni and Paul, driven over to Aras camp, and treated to some of Aras amazing Campfire stew, before we all headed off to the Swimming Hole
Ara's dining room in Big Bend
TO MEXICO
A couple of days before we we due to head south for the final break for the border, I went on the internet to check once more what papers we would need to enter into Mexico with the bike. I found no more info than I already knew, but I did come across a post from a couple of Aussies who were looking for a riding partner to ride through Mexico with.TO MEXICO
La Paz was only a couple of hours ride from San CarlosLa Paz was only a couple of hours ride from San Carlos, so we had a lazy lie in , followed by a leisurely breakfast before hitting the road. La Paz, the main city of Baja, came into view after an uneventful journey along the MX1. First we hit the topes, then the traffic lights, the first we had seen in Mexico, then the traffic strted to pile up. We negotiated our way through the cars, trucks and busses and headed down towards the sea.
I think Aussie Dan got itchy feet first, but after a few days we were ready to move on.
I had a friend in Todos Santos, and artist community about an hour from La Paz on the west coast of the Peninsula, and we made a beeline for there.I think Aussie Dan got itchy feet first, but after a few days we were ready to move on.
We took the loan bike for a spin to La Paz to catch the last night of Carnival, Mardi Gras, and were greeted by some familiar faces back at the Pension California We took the loan bike for a spin to La Paz to catch the last night of Carnival, Mardi Gras, and were greeted by some familiar faces back at the Pension California when we checked back in for the night. We unloaded the bike once more, parked the bike up inside the inner courtyard of the Pension, and headed out to the Malencon to catch the Carnival Parade.
Unhappy as I was about a 14-hour ferry crossing, the time went quickly and we arrived at Mazatlan around 8 in the morning.Unhappy as I was about a 14-hour ferry crossing, the time went quickly and we arrived at Mazatlan around 8 in the morning. We rode off the ferry and after a quick reconnoitre of the locale, rode up to the Hotel Mexico, one of Andreas recommendations, where we checked in, changed clothes, parked the bike, and were out.
We arrived in Cabo Pulmo, and our spirits were instantly raised. The town was one road, which ran along the shore, with a dive shop, a bakery, a restaurant or two and a handful of small hotelsWe arrived in Cabo Pulmo, and our spirits were instantly raised. The town was one road, which ran along the shore, with a dive shop, a bakery, a restaurant or two and a handful of small hotels. It was lovely and unspoilt.
We really had to tear ourselves away from Mazatlan, our first proper Mexican town, but what lay ahead eased the pain of our departure.
We decided that our next destination would be Durango, the Mexican cowboy capital. One of the deciding factors in this choice was the road that would take us there.We really had to tear ourselves away from Mazatlan, our first proper Mexican town, but what lay ahead eased the pain of our departure.
GUANJUATO had been bigged up by some many people were had very high expectations, not always a good thing.
This time, however, we werent disappointedGUANJUATO had been bigged up by some many people were had very high expectations, not always a good thing.
The next morning we headed out East, off to the jungle properI had made contact with a fellow biker on Horizons Unlimited, the website we had been using while planning the trip, and he had invited us to go stay with him. We rocked up at his house and were shown around his house, which had been built around his garage where he kept his collection of Harleys.
Our arrival in Guadalajara was a difficult one in many ways. Our timing was terrible. It was 7pm, the setting sun was still blisteringly hot, especially combined with the heat from the city and the immobile post work trafficOur arrival in Guadalajara was a difficult one in many ways. Our timing was terrible. It was 7pm, the setting sun was still blisteringly hot, especially combined with the heat from the city and the immobile post work traffic.
Our next stop was Durango, another beautiful Cathedral and Plaza, another bustling market, but without the vivacity of MazatlanOur next stop was Durango, another beautiful Cathedral and Plaza, another bustling market, but without the vivacity of Mazatlan.
I was eager to move on, as was Jacquie, so we stayed one night before hitting the road once more for Zacatecas.
From Valencia we hopped over to San Miguel de AllendFrom Valencia we hopped over to San Miguel de Allende, another beautiful colonial town in the same format of Churches, Plazas, Bandstands, which was beginning to become a bit to familiar.
Xilithla was the site of Edward James Castillo. An expressionist set of buildings in the jungle, originally built as a monkey sanctuary. Edward James was an Orchid collector and enthusiast, and he was so upset that many of the flowers on his site died that he decided to make statues of them in concrete so they would never die.Valles was an extremely uninspiring town, and I couldnt wait to leave, so we spent the one night before heading deeper into the jungle to explore Xilithla and Aquisimon.
From Campeche we had a hard ride on a dirt road 21miles down to Celestun to see the pink flamingos. The short cut added about an hour to our journey, and caused a not insignificant amount of tension between Jacquie and I, but that was all washed away on the boat trip to see the Flamingos the next day.
It felt good to be riding unaccompanied, even though we missed the company of the Frenchies It felt good to be riding unaccompanied, even though we missed the company of the Frenchies, we could speed up where we wanted, slow down where we wanted, and stop where we wanted. The weather was as gorgeous as the scenery as we rode north up the Yucatan Peninsula and towards the Gulf of Mexico. We had never seen this side of the country and when we finally came to the beach road, the turquoise blue waters of the Gulf welcomed us in an unforgettable way.
We set off in the glorious sunshine and left Oaxaca state, into Chiapas. The brown and dry landscape gave way to lush, tropical vegetation, the roads became bumpier and more pot-holed, and after lunch, which was the first time we tried Iguana-and the last, hopefully- the weather started to change too. We set off in the glorious sunshine and left Oaxaca state, into Chiapas.
The ride to the Falls at Tamul started off on beautiful fresh new black tarmac, and got steadily worse, until the 3 hogs were hobbling along the rutted dirt/sand road at a meagre 10mph.The road started off promising, then got better as we reached a beautiful swathe of fresh new blacktop. This ran out after about 3 miles and we switched to gravel, then dirt, then a lunar landscape. The 3 Harleys trundled along slowly along these roads for a good hour at a meagre 10 mph until we reached Tamul, less than a mile from the waterfalls.
Our next destination was Queretaro, another of Mexico s fine colonial towns, and one of our favourites, as it turned out.Our next destination was Queretaro, another of Mexico s fine colonial towns, and one of our favourites, as it turned out.
On the road to Queretero, a stop fro strawberries
We made a beeline to Oaxaca city where we visited the ruin of Monte Alban, and from there headed out via the Valles Centrales to Chiapas and San Cristobal de Los Casas. We made a beeline to Oaxaca city where we visited the ruin of Monte Alban, and from there headed out via the Valles Centrales to Chiapas and San Cristobal de Los Casas.
We really were very,very unprepared, we couldnt get a fix on the address on our GPS, no one we spoke to knew where we should go, so we decided to just head to the freeway and follow the signs til we got closer, then we would ask for directions again. A simple plan-destined for failure!We really were very,very unprepared, we couldnt get a fix on the address on our GPS, no one we spoke to knew where we should go, so we decided to just head to the freeway and follow the signs til we got closer, then we would ask for directions again. A simple plan-destined for failure!
A few more days of Escondido and it was time to move on down the coast, we stopped at another little fishing village on the coast that had been overrun by hippies in the 70s and was still thriving on backpackers and budget travellers
The gang back together again!
We had to go back to San Luis Potosi (the City) to have a service on the bike, our 20,000 miles was here already, and our friends recommended us a mechanic who used to work on Harleys, and as there were no dealerships around unless we headed straight to Mexico city, it was the best option......We had to go back to San Luis Potosi (the City) to have a service on the bike, our 20,000 miles was here already, and our friends recommended us a mechanic who used to work on Harleys, and as there were no dealerships around unless we headed straight to Mexico city, it was the best option.
After the hustle and bustle of Mexico City (before the swine flu closed everything down) and our 2-day ride along the road of death, we were ready to kick back and relax on the beach. We found a lovely little guest house ran by an eccentric Cuban, and spent a few days just chilling on the beach and wandering round the town before following the coast road down to Acapulco.After the hustle and bustle of Mexico City (before the swine flu closed everything down) and our 2-day ride along the road of death, we were ready to kick back and relax on the beach.
The ride started as normal, and we found our way out of Mexico city without too much trouble, the problems started later on. The road was glorious. We rode up, down and round mountains, through the forest, twisting and winding our way along in the sunshinThe ride started as normal, and we found our way out of Mexico city without too much trouble, the problems started later on. The road was glorious. We rode up, down and round mountains, through the forest, twisting and winding our way along in the sunshine, and after a few hours, we were ready for a stop.
By this stage, 7 months into our trip, Jacquie was feeling really homesick, and had decided to fly back to England from Cancun. The air had mostly escaped from my balloon, and part of me was trying to delay getting to Cancun as much as possible, while the other part of me just wanted to get it over and done with. We rode for one more day before we arrived in the dreaded Cancun.
Jacquie booked her flight and we were left with one week together.
Its really hard to explain how I was feeling as I headed due south, past Playa Del Carmen, past Tulum, and onwards into the unknownIts really hard to explain how I was feeling as I headed due south, past Playa Del Carmen, past Tulum, and onwards into the unknown. It was strange riding the bike solo, I had no luggage outside of the bikes boxes, and the bike rode like a different machine. I took off my jacket and stowed it in the back box, turned the music on the stereo up, and rode along in the beautiful sunshine. I could accelerate faster, brake harder, and turn tighter.
. My heart sank as I hit the road to Flores. Once again, I had to crawl along another twenty odd miles of gravel before I reached hard blacktop and the chance to pull back the throttle and put some miles down.. My heart sank as I hit the road to Flores. Once again, I had to crawl along another twenty odd miles of gravel before I reached hard blacktop and the chance to pull back the throttle and put some miles down.
The next morning, I rose after a poor nights sleep, went back into town for a quick breakfast in the market, followed by a fleeting visit to the Internet café-no messages, before setting off for my fist solo border crossing and Belize.The next morning, I rose after a poor nights sleep, went back into town for a quick breakfast in the market, followed by a fleeting visit to the Internet café-no messages, before setting off for my fist solo border crossing and Belize.
The following days were spent clambering up more waterfalls, crawling along underground tunnels, and enjoying the scenery and natural beauty of Samuc Champey.The following days were spent clambering up more waterfalls, crawling along underground tunnels, and enjoying the scenery and natural beauty of Samuc Champey.
Our ride into El Salvador has to have been one of the most memorable rides to date. We took the coastal road, and followed the contours of the mountains, riding the winding route overlooking the Pacific to our right, with the lush mountains in turn looking over us from our left. We rode through tunnels, and on each corner were rewarded with some spectacular views.
I had a joyous morning today in Leon, going to the hospital, after being refused admittance into 2 private clinics.
We finally arrived in Antigua after driving straight past the turn off, twice! We rolled into town checked out a few hostels, then took a room in one of the few places that had all we needed, a secure spot to park the bikes, internet, and clean sheets. As ever, my budget was $10 for the room, and this was $7, nice.
Now I just had to wait for Jacquie to arrive.After one more recovery day, we were off again, to Antigua. Andy and I left the posse and rode on together.
While we were in El Salvador, there had been a military coup in Honduras...quite something, they kidnapped the president and took him to Costa Rica. America and Colombia were up in arms saying it was an illegal coup, and thousands of people were in the streets in Honduras. At this point no one knew if they were protesting his arrest, or celebrating it...only in (Central) America.While we were in El Salvador, there had been a military coup in Honduras...quite something, they kidnapped the president and took him to Costa Rica.
Guillermo Terran, the owner of the Harley shop, had kindly offered to put us up in the hotel next to the shop for the night, and we had gleefully accepted, so, after arriving at the dealership, we dumped our stuff in the room and went down to meet the other Harley guys in the shopGuillermo Teran, the owner of the Harley shop, had kindly offered to put us up in the hotel next to the shop for the night, and we had gleefully accepted, so, after arriving at the dealership, we dumped our stuff in the room and went down to meet the other Harley guys in the shop.
... at last , a volcano that you could ride straight to the top of. No 4 hour hikes for this city slicker!...The next day we were up early after a great nights sleep in our air conditioned room, we gobbled up our free breakfast, and headed out to the Volcan Masaya, at last , a volcano that you could ride straight to the top of. No 4 hour hikes for this city slicker!
From San Juan, we had a short ride to the border, and when we got there, we were glad we had left early, there were hundreds of people at the border, waiting to cross. It looked like we would be here for some time.From San Juan, we had a short ride to the border, and when we got there, we were glad we had left early, there were hundreds of people at the border, waiting to cross. It looked like we would be here for some time.
And so it came to pass
that after a few days riding round Costa Rica alone and a weekend in Jaco for the world surfing championships, I returned to Samara to work at ArribaAnd so it came to pass
that after a few days riding round Costa Rica alone and a weekend in Jaco for the world surfing championships, I returned to Samara to work at Arriba, the bar I had spotted in construction on my previous visit.
I somehow found my way to the old part of the city, Casco Viejo, and after asking a couple of street vendors for Luna's Castle, I rolled up outside just after dark. I checked in, parked up, unloaded, e.mailed Tak's friend who lived in Panama City, and rinsed the sweat and dust off me in a cold showerI somehow found my way to the old part of the city, Casco Viejo, and after asking a couple of street vendors for Luna's Castle, I rolled up outside just after dark.
The Darien Gap, a stretch of dense jungle populated by drug smugglers and growers, paramilitary groups, kidnappers and gun runners prevented any sort of overland travel from Panama to South America, so my choice was either flying the bike at a cost of almost $1,000, plus a ticket for myself, or getting the bike on a boat and sailing for four days via the San Blas islands.I had deliberated over this choice for several days and had decided that sailing would be the best option, and I had picked a boat that a few of my fellow bikers had used before and had a good reputation.
After a few days of sailing round the San Blas Islands on the Stahlratte, we arrived in Cartagena. After a few days of sailing round the San Blas Islands on the Stahlratte, we arrived in Cartagena. There was a bit of hanging around while our fixer went ahead with our passports to Immigration. We then all went onshore, as we had been summoned to the Immigration office. We grabbed a couple of taxis and were in and out of Immigration in a short time. We then returned to the boat, unloaded the bikes, and then headed into Cartagena to find a hostel.
The route was another spectacular kaleidoscope of colours, mountains, valleys and gorges, I was forced to stop several times to take pictures of the breath taking scenery, but as ever, my camera never managed to capture the true beauty of what my eyes could see.The route was another spectacular kaleidoscope of colours, mountains, valleys and gorges, I was forced to stop several times to take pictures of the breath taking scenery, but as ever, my camera never managed to capture the true beauty of what my eyes could see.
As per usual, leaving the city was a task and a half. Road signs and street names were almost non-existent; my GPS, with its world map only, was about as useful as a bacon sandwich at a bar mitzvah, but eventually, by using my compass, asking several taxi drivers and following my nose, I eventually made it to the city limits. As per usual, leaving the city was a task and a half.
The route was another spectacular kaleidoscope of colours, mountains, valleys and gorges, I was forced to stop several times to take pictures of the breath taking scenery, but as ever, my camera never managed to capture the true beauty of what my eyes could see.The route was another spectacular kaleidoscope of colours, mountains, valleys and gorges, I was forced to stop several times to take pictures of the breath taking scenery, but as ever, my camera never managed to capture the true beauty of what my eyes could see.
Garth really needed a little TLC , and when I arrived in Bogota, I headed straight to the Harley dealer to book him in for some good lovin.
Our next stop was the Zona Cafetera, Colombias coffee growing region, we left the wet and cloudy Bogota behind us, and rode through even more breathtaking scenery until we reached Armenia, a short ride from SalentoOur next stop was the Zona Cafetera, Colombias coffee growing region, we left the wet and cloudy Bogota behind us, and rode through even more breathtaking scenery until we reached Armenia, a short ride from Salento.
We had been in contact with another group of riders who were listed on Horizons, and headed straight for the Asturias bike shop in the town , where we met Jorge, the gregarious owner, and Harley rider, his wife Sory, and their French friend, Alain, who came to the shop hen Jorge phoned him to inform him of our arrival.We had been in contact with another group of riders who were listed on Horizons, and headed straight for the Asturias bike shop in the town , where we met Jorge, the gregarious owner, and Harley rider, his wife Sory, and their French friend, Alain, who came to the shop hen Jor
Our first experience of Ecuador, as of any of the countries we visited, was the customs and immigration at the border. Now, this is never fun but it can be quite interesting if you get a decent customs officer who shows a little interest in the trip or the bike and is happy to get on with the sheaths of paperwork, get you processed and on your way. We set off at a reasonable hour the next day in gorgeous Colombian sunshine, but with in an hour of leaving, the skies had once again darkened, and as we neared Popayan, the heavens opened once more.
We made a rare, early start from Monpiche, eager to get settled in time for a nice afternoon laze on the beach in CanoaCANOAS
We made a rare, early start from Monpiche, eager to get settled in time for a nice afternoon laze on the beach in Canoas, and left with the early morning mist still in the air. We headed down the bumpy dirt road and back onto the Ruta Del Sol, but after an hour of riding down the Sun Route there was still no sign of the sun.
We completely missed our turn off and had to double back about 20 miles to find the entrance to the Finca , where we slipped and slided along a muddy track until we reached Ricardos brothers Hostel.
We spent a relaxing evening in the hostel, perched up in the mountain, surrounded by jungle, overlooking the beach below, and then decided one more night wouldnt hurt!
We stopped on route to allow a heard of sheep to cross the road, and stopped and talked to the young woman and her kids who were herding the animals, before riding the last few kilometers to the town. We stopped on route to allow a heard of sheep to cross the road, and stopped and talked to the young woman and her kids who were herding the animals, before riding the last few kilometers to the town. She was only just in her twenties, but her weathered face belied her age. Her oldest daughter was 9 years old and her son was three, both of the children were out helping her with the animals.
Our mates in Cali were all heading down to Ambato for a big bike meeting, as was our pal Ricardo from Quito, so we had decided to ride back up to meet them all before heading out of Ecuador.Our mates in Cali were all heading down to Ambato for a big bike meeting, as was our pal Ricardo from Quito, so we had decided to ride back up to meet them all before heading out of Ecuador. We rode back the way we came, and into Ambato, a fairly ugly modern town, and to the hotel where the vent was based, and then we got out first shock.
Our mates in Cali were all heading down to Ambato for a big bike meeting, as was our pal Ricardo from Quito, so we had decided to ride back up to meet them all before heading out of Ecuador.Our mates in Cali were all heading down to Ambato for a big bike meeting, as was our pal Ricardo from Quito, so we had decided to ride back up to meet them all before heading out of Ecuador. We rode back the way we came, and into Ambato, a fairly ugly modern town, and to the hotel where the vent was based, and then we got out first shock.
Our crossing into Peru was quick and easy, and the change on the other side was immediate.
Hundreds of moto taxis wobbled along the roads, and the more luxurious form of taxi were 1970s American Doge cars, in varying degrees of disrepair.PERU
The second day of the coastal road through Peru was the same as the first. We rode on, more of the brown stuff to our left, and the blue stuff to our right. The road occasionally left the coast and we wound up into the mountains, where we totally surrounded by sand, rocky mountains, and more sand. It felt as if we were totally isolated from the rest of civilization
We arrived in Mancora nice and early, found a lovely room in a hostel on the beach, unpacked, and spent a lovely afternoon chilling on the beach, drinking beer and making friends with other travelers, as well as bumping into some old faces from up the road, a couple of guys I had met back in Colombia.We arrived in Mancora nice and early, found a lovely room in a hostel on the beach, unpacked, and spent a lovely afternoon chilling on the beach, drinking beer and making friends with other travelers, as well as bumping into some old faces from up the road, a couple of guys I had met back in Co
As we left Nasca behind, we also left the sunshine. Approaching the coast, we rode into a grey fog, which I was hoping might just be some early morning sea mist, but the weather worsened as the day went on, and at around lunchtime, the deluge beganAs we left Nasca behind, we also left the sunshine. Approaching the coast, we rode into a grey fog, which I was hoping might just be some early morning sea mist, but the weather worsened as the day went on, and at around lunchtime, the deluge began.
Cusco was a bustling city, where tourists rummaged for bargains and touts plied their wares, mainly massages and trips to Macho Picchu. Traditionally dressed women walked around with Lamas, while their daughters carried lambs, ready for a tourist to point their camera at them so they could then demand $1.Another day, another dollar, and we were off once more, more riding through the sacred valley, past more Inca sites, and to the former Inca capital, Cusco.
Garth and I thundered back out through the sacred valley, and didnt stop until I came across a procession in a town along the way, about 5 hours down the road. It was another festival, and as I rode on towards Puno I came across more and more of them. I was just on the outskirts of Puno when a cop stopped me for another procession to cross the road in front of me. I pulled over, parked the bike, and went for a closer look.I felt much better the next day, so I packed up and headed out of the city, aiming for Bolivia.
As we entered the site, the mist clung to the mountains and obscured most of the city, revealing only small patches at a time, we climbed to the guards house, and sat on the grass, catching what glimpses we could as the clouds rolled over the site.MACHU PICCHU
After another 2 hours of riding through the rain, I eventually arrived at the top of a mountain and through the clouds, I was afforded a view of La Paz, the highest capital city in the world, laid out beneath me like a collection of Lego buildings. LA PAZ
After another 2 hours of riding through the rain, I eventually arrived at the top of a mountain and through the clouds, I was afforded a view of La Paz, the highest capital city in the world, laid out beneath me like a collection of Lego buildings.
I ascended above the clouds, upwards and onwards to the altiplano, at altitudes of over 5,000m. Here the sky was spectacular, the colour of the sky, the shape of the clouds, everything looked as if it was being viewed from some kind of high definition, polychromatic lens. It was unnaturally beautiful.I left early in the morning and rode up the hill out of the city, and then continued to climb. I ascended above the clouds, upwards and onwards to the altiplano, at altitudes averaging 3,200metre, but reaching over 5,000m in places.
The ride continued to awe me, the road twisting and turning through winding canyon roads, still under a beautiful blue sky, until I turned a corner and was presented with a vista of the high rises running along the beach at Arica. 
The ride continued to awe me, the road twisting and turning through winding canyon roads, still under a beautiful blue sky, still under a beautiful crystal blue sky, so high I could almost each out and touch the wispy clouds above.
I followed the coast, back on the Pan American Highway, known here in Chile as highway 1, and the blacktop sliced a path through the desert. As the sun rose in the sky, I rode down the Pan American, desert to my right, and the ocean, under a blanket of gentle mist, sat to my right. I followed the blissfully smooth blacktop along, past outcrops of rock, jutting into the ocean, and forever southwards.
The Glacier, one of the only advancing glaciers in the world, was extremely impressive, and made the three days of hell we had endured to get here so worthwhile. The boat chugged up and down in front of the glacier, and we were lucky enough to see a house-sized block of ice fall from it into the lake
Riding into Pucon was a surprise to say the least. After hours of riding through valleys and alongside lakes, we turned a corner, and found ourselves in the middle of Villarica Swiss Alpine town.We based ourselves there for a couple of days before riding out to Valparaiso, a coastal town known for its corrugated buildings and Bohemian vibe. From there, we followed the coast road as much as we could southwards before heading back inland to the Chilean Lake district and Pucon.
We enjoyed yet another spectacular ride on the Routa 40, Ches highway, through the Argentine Lake district to El Bolson, and after one wrong turn, we found the hostel that we had booked from Bariloche.Both of us had really been looking forward to Argentina, and the promise of amazing steaks, delicious wine, and friendly folk, and now we were here. It wasnt the first time in Argentina, but this time we were here to stay, at least for a while.
We were dreading entering the city. The GPS wasnt working anymore, so we couldnt rely on that, and the map we had as a back up had next to no detail of the city centre. Fortunately, the Gods were smiling on us that day, and we didnt miss a beat. We rode straight into the city centre, into the oldest part of the city, San Telmo, and directly to our hostel. We were dreading entering the city. The GPS wasnt working anymore, so we couldnt rely on that, and the map we had as a back up had next to no detail of the city centre.
We left early in the morning, a touch over 3,000 kms to cover before we got to Buenos Aires. We rode out of Ushuaia under a grey sky. I was happy to leave the place behind. I had found it expensive, ugly and miserable. We had gone there for one purpose only, to touch a point on a map, and to be honest, I was wishing we had skipped it.We had done what we wanted to do in Ushuaia, we bought stickers for our bikes and postcards for our friends (which finally arrived in the UK four months later), and decided to head out the next day.
We mooched around the city, and were amazed at how busy the place was. We had known that it was a popular destination, and that this was the busiest time of year, but we had no idea that the place would be as packed as it was. We already knew that Argentineans liked to go out late at night, and here in Mar Del Plata, the place started buzzing around 11pm, when the early birds would go out for dinner. Clubs didnt even open til midnight, and the revelry continued until well into the morning of the next day.
We spent the next few days exploring more of the city, we hung out with Adrian, visited my distant cousins, and ate more meat than advisable.
Luis was a perfect host, with many friends, who took it in turns to come to his house to eat Asada with his British guests.We spent the next few days exploring more of the city, we hung out with Adrian, visited my distant cousins, and ate more meat than is generally advisable for human consumption.
The city had a slightly oppressive feel to it, and try as I may, I couldnt get excited about it. After being in Buenos Aires, which had turned out to be one of our favourite cities, Cordoba was definitely a step down, to say the least. We rode out of buenos Aires in searing heat, northeast towards Cordoba, and arrived in the city centre 8 hours after we pulled out of Luis garage.
On the way to Cordoba, at last , the Argentinian roads began to get exciting again
We headed out of town, our third attempt to get out of Cordoba, we passed Capilla del Monte, and rode north toward Salta. The rain had had a serious effect on much of the road we travelled, sections were washed away and replaced with brick red mud, others under a good few inches of water.We headed out nice and early again the next day, but had only been going for a half hour or so before I heard an unusual sound coming from the bike. We pulled over and tried to find the noise, but after several attempts, we couldnt find its source. We got back on the road, and the sound returned.
I had wanted to visit the falls at Iguazu since Id lived in St Martin and heard stories of how amazing the spectacle was to behold from travellers I had met there. It was sure to be one of the highlights of the trip.I had wanted to visit the falls at Iguazu since Id lived in St Martin and heard stories of how amazing the spectacle was to behold from travellers I had met there. It was sure to be one of the highlights of the trip.
The "Carnival Show" at the hostel in Iguazu
The only thing that eased the pain of having to pay to ride on potholed, single lane highways, was that the symbol for a motorbike on each of the toll booth price lists was an old Harley Davidson FXR.A couple of recovery days later, with our bags full of clean clothes, a fresh tub of Marmite, Jacquies favourite, and a few extra plastic bags full of herbs from Myles cabinet, we left our mates behind and made our way to Sao Paolo. We rode out of the city, and onto the highway. We passed through another bunch of tollbooths on this road.
We noticed immediately the difference between Brazil and the other South American countries we had visited.
There were far less jalopies on the road, and no more grazing cows or wandering horses by the side of the pavement. The roads were in pretty poor shape, yet there was a tollbooth almost every 150kms.
We booked ourselves on a trip to see the largest favella in Rio, Rocinha. We wouldnt usually for the organised group tour, but an unguided stroll through a Favella of some 250,000 inhabitants, policed and run by machine gun toting drug lords and narcos didnt hold much appeal either. We booked ourselves on a trip to see the largest favella in Rio, Rocinha. We wouldnt usually for the organised group tour, but an unguided stroll through a Favella of some 250,000 inhabitants, policed and run by machine gun toting drug lords and narcos didnt hold much appeal either.
We were put in a dorm with no fan, no air con and no windows, and were told that the rate quoted on the Internet was incorrect and had now gone up. We took the grumpy reception staff to task, and soon found that almost every guest in the hostel had a gripe about something or other, and soon there were a dozen disgruntled guests behind me voicing their complaints, which must have proved to much for the receptionists, who after telling us to go forth and multiply, promptly walked out of the building, leaving a group of dazed and confused travellers in their wake.