The Elephant's Travels 2007 - 2008

Wth their children grown ad their lives settled, Mike and Jo decide on one more adventure.They say that every journey begins with a single step. The first step on this journey, however, was imperceptibly small. A tiny shift in mind set, a distracted feeling at work and, somewhere, a growing feeling that life was short and precious and, if not to be taken too seriously, certainly to be lived, these were the small beginnings of an adventure. Jo and I have always loved motorcycles and, if we were not as active in our child rearing years as we would have liked, the passion remained strong.

A Plan comes together......or so we thought!Making the decision to try and ride our bike around the world was hard work and, having gotten that bit of unpleasantness out of the way, we settled back to await the start of our adventure. A couple of weeks of reverie drifted by before the obvious became obvious: nothing would happen because we wished it, we needed to get some planning done! Once we got over the initial shock of deciding to go, the problem of planning seemed almost overwhelming.

With too little time, the bike is prepared in a rush and much is left undone.One of the first things you need if you are intending to ride a motorcycle around the world is, of course, a motorcycle. For some reason we had purchased a BMW 1150 GS Adventure over the Christmas break. What possessed us to do that is not entirely clear looking back, but perhaps we had some unspoken thoughts about the possibilities. Perhaps it was just time for a change from our trusty but aging Kawasaki.

The administration for this trip seems far more complicated than for our last adventure. We think our lives have become too complicated!We had heard it said that you need to spend as long planning a trip like this as you intend to spend on it. If that were the case we were stuffed before we started. There was certainly a lot to do and no where near enough time to do it. Just working out how to get to the start and get home from the finish was a challenge.

Away at last. First stop New York.Finally we are away. First stop New York. Having not given any particular thought to our few days stop over in New York, we arrived without any preconceptions and loved the place from the jump. This is our kind of village! It is big, rambunctious, smelly, crowded, cosmopolitan, decaying and exciting. Everything good, bad and indifferent is here and you would need to live here for a while to get a handle on all of the possibilities.

Underway but still bikeless.We escaped from New York with our sense of humour intact and some important shopping done. Jo and I both found down parkers at a good price as well as a small mountaineering stove and fuel bottle. Jo also had new walking shoes and I had a good light weigh micro-fibre shirt. Overall, not too bad. The escape was not without its drama. Aer Lingus staged through Dublin, a smallish hub run with such incompetence that they give the impression of a great hub on a bad day.

Lyon, Australia wollops Japan 91 to 3 and we eat far too well.Our week of indulgence in London was over too soon. We were just getting used to relaxing when it was time to go.

Mike finds heaven at Solihull while Jo reads a book.Birmingham National Motorcycle Museum 12 Sep 07 Like all good bikers I had no choice but to detour on our trip to Wales to visit the National Motorcycle Museum at Solihull near Birmingham. It was our first day on the road with the bike and a chance to settle down the luggage pack and get used to the weight of the fully loaded bike. Our first hour out of London covered 19 miles (whatever they are) and provided a fair test of our ability to keep the bike upright in heavy traffic. No lane splitting just yet!

A Welsh adventure to start the journey13 – 16 Sep 07

After the National MC Museum we had the economy class tour of Birmingham. Despite our best efforts riding the late night local buses, and our failure o find any real Brum-Balti food, we quite liked the place. It has a real “try-hard” feel to it and an interesting ethnic mix. Folks from Brm would understand the Gold Coast better than most other Brits.

The escape from England is not without dramaGetting to France

16 to 21 September 2007

Our initial plan was to tour the southern counties and then get a ferry out of Portsmouth to the south of France. This plan was dashed when our UK insurance company failed to send out some needed papers causing us to return to London to pick them up. Bureaucratic incompetence knows no geographic boundaries it seems.

We Settle in Sete as a base for the Monpellier game.21 to 24 Sep 07

We could set up in Sete without any difficulty at all. It is a great little town.

Settling in to Sete like a local. It is a tough life on the road.

We settle in for a week at Arcachon on the Atlantic coast and watch the weather change.The Atlantic Coast

25 Sep to 1 Nov 07

A few days in the Loire Valley to look at some old buildingsWed 3 to Sat 6 Oct

Our holiday by the sea ran out as quickly as the weather. One last walk around the village to check on the locals found these two Labs that obviously didn’t feel the need to share the road. France is a pretty good place for dogs.

Mike and Jo settle down with some Champagne beet farmers for a while.6 to 14 Oct 07

Troyes and Champagne

We came up the motorway from Blois about as fast as we want to go on this rig. We had been slower getting away than planned and needed to be at the next stop in Troyes (it’s pronounced something like Troi with a definite rolling of the r) by 1230. Needing to make about even time for the trip we paid our money on the motorway and opened up the throttle.

An unexpected find in a Troyes back streetA small Museum in Troyes

One of the delights of being an independent traveler is finding the unexpected. Sometimes it is a small bar, warm on a cold day, where the locals embrace the traveler and tell you their special secrets. Sometimes it is a small museum or local history overlooked by the rest of the world. A visit to Troyes, 200 km east of Paris turned up just such a gem.

Wine tasting in ChampagneA Tale of Two Wineries

We find a hilltop town with some interesting characters14 to 15 Oct

Laon

Riding the back roads of France on a Sunday is a delight. We left our cosy hideout at Bouy-Luxembourg on a cool, clear Sunday and headed North West through deserted secondary roads. The hunting season had only opened a week before and every kilometre or so a shooter walked through the cropped fields with a shotgun over his shoulder and a dog bounding along behind. Sunday is a Frenchman’s day to hunt and a good day for small birds and furry animals to lay low.

Belgium and back to the UK15-21 Oct 07

Against common sense we continued to head north after Laon into cooler and wetter weather. We were traveling north to see some old friends now living in Belgium and it would have taken more than a little cool weather to keep us away.

We decided, for no particular reason, to spend a night in Brussels. A number of our friends and acquaintances have been posted to Brussels for work over the years and we felt we should have a look at the place for ourselves.

Back in England, Jo and Mike attend the wedding of their daughter Sarah.22 Oct to 27 Oct 07

We felt like old hands crossing through the Channel Tunnel on Monday 22 Oct 07. Despite a rainy cold morning we arrived at the check-in with our order number, passports and credit card ready (no easy thing when we were rugged against the cold and wet) and were through in seconds.

Mike and Jo have a less than wonderful week and a quick trip back to Australia28 Oct 07 - 6 Nov 07

Some days are just merciless.

Still emotional after Sarah and Mike’s wedding, and a little sad at saying goodbye to Sarah, Mike and Nick, our run to the Channel Tunnel was always going to be an ordinary day. When it started raining heavily during breakfast we put on our resigned-determined faces and broke out the wet weather kit.

Jo and Mike Have a short trip back to AustraliaMatthew John Hannan
Born 26 February 1926, Arklow, County Wicklow, Ireland.
Died 1 November 2007, Winmalee, NSW, Australia.

John Hannan came to Australia as a penniless immigrant at the end of WWII. He carved out a life in the New World, raised a family and loved his adopted home like a true-born native man. He was a good man who led a good life.

Mike and Jo get back to business but have some first day blues.20 to 25 Nov 07

Although there was still much to be done in Australia, we flew out on 20 Nov bound for Hong Kong, London and Barcelona. We arrived in Barcelona on the night of 21 Nov, missing two days sleep, but otherwise intact. A late night dinner of local sausage and white beans and a few hours sleep reset the gyros for Spain.

Mike fits up some new storage to the bike.The Big Refit

During our short trip back to Australia, I took the opportunity to prepare two storage kits to fit to the bike on our return to Spain. The kits were intended to provide some extra storage space for our cold weather gear which, while not heavy, is very bulky.

The Elephant breaks down in Granada25 Nov 07 to 4 Dec 07

Our digs at Calpe were comfortable, off-season cheap and equipped with a good kitchen so we could keep eating costs down. As a consequence, it was an easy decision to extend our stay by two days (to six) to catch up on some R&R. At least that was the plan!

Mike and Jo hole up for the public holidays at the home of sherry.4 Dec 07 to 10 Dec 07 After spending too long wandering in new parts of Granada, Mike had to rush to be sure he was back at the BMW dealer at the appointed time to collect the Elephant. That is, if the servo unit had arrived from Madrid and the mechanics had managed to fit it and if the collection time hadn’t been confused in translation.

Mike and Jo cross into Morocco from Spain and head south down the Atlantic coast10 to 17 December 2007

In the Spanish port city of Algeciras we took a 10th floor hotel room with a view over the busy port and across to Gibraltar. There are few things finer than a room overlooking a port. The constant movement of ships and the general hubbub and colour on the docks are always exciting. Waiting for our departure to a new country on a new continent they were doubly so.

Mike and Jo meet their daughter Sarah and her husband Mike at Essaouira, Morocco, for a week of relaxation over Christmas.20 to 27 Dec 07

We rolled south towards Essaouira on Thursday 20 December with the fertile land tilled down to the edge of a placid Atlantic.

Mike and Jo discover some interesting local history in Agadir.27 to 31 Dec 07

First a mystery.

The ride to Agadir down the coast road is a delight as it winds through the foothills of the High Atlas where they sweep down to the sea. The surface is no worse than that on many of our SE Queensland roads and the scenery is excellent.

Mike and Jo get lost in the Anti Atlas Mountains for 10 days and find some of the world's best bike roads.“I’m not anti Atlas” he said. “I’m really quite pro-Atlas”.

1 to 9 Jan 08

Mike and Jo cross the High Atlas to Marrakech and travel north to the Imperial cities of Fes and Meknes.10 to 18 Jan 08

After six weeks, Mike and Jo end the Moroccan leg of their travels on a high note.20 to 24 Jan 08

This is our last post from Morocco.

The Riff Mountains were different to every other part of Morocco we had visited. This place has a Wild West feel to it. Everywhere here you get the impression that central government control is “limited”.

Mike and Jo struggle to get from Morocco to Tunisia without going broke.26 Jan - 1 Feb 08

During our initial planning for this extravaganza we realised that we would most likely have to bypass Algeria to get to Tunisia because the border between Morocco and Algeria has been closed for more than 10 years. All of our experience told us that when we got on the ground and nosed around a little, the local arrangements would become clear and we would find our way through.

Mike and Jo find their feet in Tunisia and come to grips with the plumbing.1 Feb - 9 Feb 08

After our initial introduction to Tunisian bureaucracy, the country has lived up, and down, to our expectations. Jo and the Elephant (being aliens) could only get 30 days on their visas, and with the ferry schedule reduced in winter, we needed to keep moving to get a handle on the country and get out on time.

Mike and Jo explore the east coast and south of Tunisia.10 Feb – 15 Feb 08

Having gotten our gripe about the lack of working plumbing off the chest, we can focus on the things about Tunisia that matter. Like whether we could get a cold beer at the end of a long ride or not. The answer, like many things in Tunisia, is yes…and no.

Firstly, Tunisia is a small country. It is about the size of Victoria, Washington State, or England and Wales combined. Too many long days in the saddle here, and you run out of space.

Mike and Jo continue to discover Tunisia10 Feb – 16 Feb 08

Well, three weeks into Tunisia and I still haven’t addressed the critical issue of getting a cold beer at the end of a long ride. We are pleased to report that the Tunisians make a quite acceptable local beer and at least one very drinkable red wine. The only problem is getting to drink them!

Mike and Jo spend their last few days in Tunisia soaking up the late winter sun at Hammamet.21 Feb - 28 Feb 08

Our Tunisian adventure ended pretty much as it began with a long wait at a ferry terminal and the Elephant strapped down in the belly of a ship. Although the passage was only 10 hours from Tunis we paid the extra for a cabin as we expected the ferry to be more crowded than the trip over from Marseille.

Mike and Jo ride across Italy and land in Greece.28 Feb to 7 Mar 08

Back in Greece after 18 Years, Mike and Jo see many changes, but settle in to life quickly.8 to 15 Mar 08

A lot had changed in the 18 years since our last visit to Greece. The country we remembered was a bit of a backwater, friendly, quaint and a little clunky. The country we found has been transformed by its membership of the EU and monetary union. The place looks and feels prosperous, it has the beginning of a cosmopolitan culture (albeit one with central European bent), and all of the usual problems of a modern western market economy.

Back in Greece after 18 years Mike and Jo find that all of the important things are unchanged, they now just wear tight blue jeans.16 to 23 Mar 08

Happy Easter everyone, we hope you caught up with the Easter Bunny like we did!

On their way north to Bulgaria Mike nd Jo run into some unseasonable Greek weather and revisit a town with some good memories.23 Mar –30 Mar 08
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Sometimes you can put the mochas on yourself with the simplest things. All it took was a single mention of “spring” and a few photos of warm weather; that, and a natural talent for making silly decisions.
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We enjoyed a few days of improving spring weather at Nidri and did some much needed administration which included giving the Elephant a bath.
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Moving north from Greece into Bulgaria, Mike and Jo find the weather cooler and wetter but discover another interesting country.31 Mar – 6 Apr 08
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A trip to the Bulgarian Black Sea coast does not impress Mike and Jo with the state of development.7 – 9 April 08
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We had planned to spend two days in the Bulgarian centre of Plovdiv, but early on the second day it started raining and kept raining for the next 48 hours. Despite a hotel room slightly smaller than a shoebox, we settled in to watch cable TV, read and wait. We ventured down to the bar only for beer and braved the weather outside only to eat.
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Apart from the changeable spring weather, Mike and Jo find Romania a clean and comfortable place to journey.10 to 19 Apr 08
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Romania left the impression of a country struggling to overcome the legacy of Soviet domination.20 – 23 Apr 08
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We ended our track across Romania at the rust-belt town of Hunedoara in the west of Transylvania. We had come there to see Hunyad Castle, a medieval pile started in 1409 with major extensions about 1446, but stayed because there was a good hotel and it seemed like a nice enough little town.
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Communicating is always a problem but it never interferes with getting fed or finding a bed.Communicating is always a problem for the independent traveller. It is not that the lack of language skills stops the traveller getting fed or finding a bed. Far from it, most of the basic things in life are simple transactions. If you walk into a hotel it is reasonably obvious that you are after a room, a fact that you can confirm with a single word: room, zimmer, camere or whatever.

More dramas with Russian Visas don't dampen Mike and Jo's spirits as they spend a weekend with their daughter Sarah and her husband Mike Green in Budapest.24 April to 3 May 08

We have found that the best way to cross into a new country is to avoid moving straight from the border to the major city. Instead, we select a medium sized place that is within one hour’s ride from the border. We then concentrate on getting into town by mid-day with plenty of time to find accommodation and figure out how things are done in the new society.

After escaping from tourist central in Budapest, Mike and Jo head for the rural south of Hungary5 to 11 May 08

Our arm wrestle over a Russian visa dragged on into another week and consumed more of our days. By Wednesday our plan had solidified and our passports were dispatched back to Canberra with a courier company. This was no cause for celebration, however, as we are still not entirely sure that the Russian Embassy in Australia will give us the visa.

Mike ad Jo get their Russian Visas and soet a serious problem with their computer.19 to 22 May 08

Our son Nick did a great job with the Russian Consul in Canberra and had our passports back with the courier within two days of their arrival in Canberra. With luck we would have them in Budapest by Tuesday 20 May leaving us a full 10 days to cover the 2000km north to the Russian border in Latvia to stay on our schedule.

With some time to spare, Mike and Jo head off to find out about Hungarian public art,12 to 18 May 08

With a week still to fill in while we waited for our Australian passports to go to Canberra and return to Budapest, we decided to look at some specific aspects of Hungarian life.

We have seen a lot of public art during our travels ranging from round-about sculpture to massive, and generally dry, water parks. Some of it has been wonderful, some of it quirky or humorous and much of it banal.

Riding north to Russia with their newly acquired visas, Mike and Jo take a few days to explore the Baltic countries of Lithuania, Latvia and Estonia.25 to 31 may 08

A few days in St Petersburg allow Mike and Jo to get a feel for the Russian West and to recall what the word expensive means.31 May to 5 June 08

Mike and Jo find a lot to like about MoscowMoscow!

Moscow! What can we say?

Well, quite a lot actually, starting with our stop at the town of Velikiy Novgorod on the way there from St Pete.

Mike and Jo have a bad start to their cross- Russia ride that sets them back two days and 1000 km, but they make some interestng new friends on the way!10 to 12 June 08

We bolted out of Moscow on 10 June having calculated that this was the last day to leave to make a comfortable run to the Mongolian border 6000 km away if we intended to stay on our schedule. We navigated out of the Moscow megopolis with relative ease and headed east towards the industrial town of Nizhniy Novgorod 450 km away. This was to be our first overnight.

5000 km east of Moscow, Mike and Jo draw breath to consider their transit of Siberia.12 to 22 Jun 08

Rain washes away a visit to Lake Baikal, but Mike and Jo manage to service Elephant and fit new tyres before heading to Mongolia.22 June to 29 June 2008

A little civil unrest puts a dampener on a visit to Mongolia.29 June to 4 July 08

Closing up on the Mongolian frontier the day before we crossed allowed us to be second in line when the gates opened. We were feeling confident that we would be through and on our way to Ulaanbaatar in an hour at the most.

Elephant destroys a rear tyre in 200km on the gravel roads between Chita and Khabarovsk.5 July to 11 Jul 08

Chita to Khabarovsk is a distance of 2150km. Not much in this vast land. Of this, a few hundred are a bituminous surface varying from “good”to pot-hole alley. The remainder, about 1800km, is unsealed. To be more technically correct, the “remainder” is under construction. To put that in perspective, that is a construction site stretching from Brisbane to Melbourne. In the land of giants, even the construction sites are epic.

Team Elephant gets into Vladivostok in one piece and starts to plan the next move.13 to 22 Jul 08

The last leg of our 12,000km journey across Russia was a mere 780km of reasonable road between Khabarovsk and Vladivostok. Under other circumstances we would have made the distance a day's run but Elephant's rear tyre had been almost destroyed in the 2000km from Chita to Khabarovsk. Fissures had opened up in the casing and too much more abuse would see it fail. We decided to take a slow, two day trip down and to look for new tyres in Vlad.

OverviewThis is the travel blog of Mike and Jo Hannan. We are an Australian couple from the Gold Coast which is located 1000 km north of Sydney on Australia's east coast.

In August 2007 we boarded a plane in Brisbane with a one-way ticket to London. A few days later we collected our BMW 1150 GS motorcycle from a depot in Wembley, filled the tank with fuel and started to ride. This blog is our story about what happened next as we journeyed through more than 20 countries in Western Europe, North Africa, Eastern Europe, Russia and Asia.

The adventure ends in Korea when Elephant gets packed in a crate to be shipped home.24 July to 4 August 2008

We had an easy week in Vladivostok working out our next move, eating well and catching up with other travelers. It didn't take us long to work out that shipping a bike out of Russia was going to be hard work and that our best bet for a successful departure would be for Team Elephant to all go out together. We decided to catch the Dong Chun Ferry from Zarubino to Sokcho, Korea, on Monday 21 Jul.