Getting into Tajikistan was pretty easy and friendly although it did cost us $15 each for something, I'm not sure what! Getting out of Uzbekistan wasn't too bad, we didn't get the full customs search we had been warned about but we were apparently missing a vital yellow customs form which as far as I could tell we should have picked up in Bukara. Once they finally conceded that we really didn't have one (or a carnet, the first people to mention one) they filled in some more lines in a big ledger that they're so fond of and let us out. Usually there is at least one friendly bloke who is interested in where we've come from, the map on the side of Al's bike is very useful for getting this across. First minor glitch was an accident blocking the road, but it didn't take long to get past.

Bigger problems were not far away however, my bike had been spluttering and running badly all day, but eventually is got to the stage where it was unridable. I changed the spark plug at the side of the road but to no avail. We were forced to set up camp a few miles short of where we had planned.

We then spent the rest of the day, all the following day and the morning after trying to fix the problem. By swapping parts from our spares and from Al's bike we eventually worked out that it wasn't the electrics (which have often been a problem!) but something wrong with the fuel/air mixture. Removing the clogged air filters helped but the problem wasn't cured. We had several attempts at stripping down the carburettor and eventually after comparing side by side with the working one, and thoroughly cleaning (including removing a small beetle!) we got it working. This involved loads of test runs up and down the road, during one of which I melted the rear brake cylinder after not reconnecting it properly. So now I have a bike which goes but doesn't stop properly. Luckily, compared to a working engine, working brakes are a minor issue! We finally cruised to Dushanbe, not that the journey was without drama. To get there you have to go through a tunnel serveral kilometres long. The tunnel is unfinished, the surface is very potholed, its full of water, there is no light and no ventilation so you can't see or breathe properly. We made it, although the throttle stuck open on my newly fixed bike, which is interesting going down a mountainside on a gravel road with only a front brake.

Dushanbe is the capital, but a pretty small one, the best bit I thought was Lenin park at night. There were loads of people hanging about and a good atmosphere.

Next day we're off again, into the Pamir mountains. We've decided to take the southern route after hearing a few stories of people taking pot shots at people on the northern (shorter) route. It's starting to get pretty scenic again :)

We arrived at our overnight stop only to be mobbed by curious kids. This little fella had my helmet away before I had a chance to say no!

We're in a massive soviet style hotel for the night. Hopefully we will change tyres for the off road ones we have brought along. Tomorrow its ever upwards into the Pamirs......