This was a really long ride from the coast to San Cristobal de Las Casas (SCC). In fact I had to overnite it in the town of Tuxtla Gutierrez, approx. a hundred kms. from SCC.

TG., pop 425,000, elev. 2,000 ft. is the state capital of Chiapas one of the many states of Mexico. It lies in the west side of Chiapas' hot humid central valley...a valley that runs N-S from the Carribean to the Pacific.

While crossing this valley from Juchitan on the coast eastward to TG, I experienced the most heavy cross winds ever for almost 150 kms. These winds blow down the valley from the Gulf of MX to the north, to the Pacific. They are frequently strong enough to blow over 18 wheelers, but after 150 kms. of "white knuckles", I finally made it to the protection of the mountains, and TG. It must have looked funny though to see me riding on a straight road, with the bike at a 10o angle leaning into the wind.

TG was a pleasant, and friendly city, and before leaving the next morning to SCC, I took a 3 hour boat ride up the Canon del Sumidero. The Sumidero Canyon is a daunting fissure in the earth with the Rio Grigalva flowing northward through it.

Motorboats take us through the Canyon between towering sheer rock walls almost 1 kilometer high. And on the shores of the river we watched aligators and iguanas (Joanne) sunning themselves. And at one point we watched monkeys swing through the trees.

Then it was off to SCC, (pop. 113,000) a 2.5 hour ride to cover 85 kms. This was because the road climbed from 2,000 ft in TG to almost 7,000 feet in the space of 85 kms. This road was amazing with steep switchbacks, hairpin turns, and 1,000 foot dropoffs at the edge of the road - most of which had no guard rails.

It was also amazing how the temperature dropped from the 30's in the Canyon to upper teens in the clouds. Infact I had to stop to put on a shirt, jacket, long pants and shoes.

SCC has been a favorite travellers haunt for decades, and it's rewards come from walking it's rambling streets and discovering many intriguing nooks and crannies and visiting many nearby villages. SCC has a bohemian, artsy, floating community of both Mexicans and foreigners with a lively music, bar and resto scene.

Prior to leaving on my trip, through this site I contacted Hugh Sinclair, an American, or I think more accurately, a "world citizen" who convinced me to visit the state of Chiapas, where he lived for a few years. Despite all the warnings of problems with the Zapatistas - a sort of gurilla rebel group lead by a masked cult "comandante" named Marcos, I decided to go. Very simply, Marcos was trying to bring to world attention the plight of the poor people of Chiapas by kidnapping and robbing travellers...you probably saw him on CNN, 60 Minutes, etc., wearing a ski mask and smoking a pipe.

Anyways, Hugh sent me some contacts in SCC who I contacted. One of which, Maru, a beautiful girl from Argentina, invited me to share her huge colonial style home a few kms. from the center of town, while I stayed in SCC.

I arrived at Maru's just as she was coming home from work. The sun was now almost down, and for the first time in a long time I found it quite chilly. We took a "collectivo" taxi to town where we roamed the markets looking for a wool sweater, after which we proceeded to her friend's Argentinean resto for the best steak since leaving Texas. Then it was back to Maru's and a nice blazing fire to take the chill away.

The dangers of the roads were brought much "closer to to home" over the next few days. Over the last 4/5 weeks I became accustomed to seeing many wrecks, but Maru's late arrival at the end of the next day showed me a more personal side of the problem. Maru arrived later than planned because of a visit to the hospital where a friend of hers was involved in a fairly serious car accident between TG and SCC. Her friend's mother required hospitalization.

The next day some beautiful friends of Maru, Juan and Gabriella, arrived from Mexico DF to spend a few days with Maru. They told us that on the way from Mexico their taxi was involved in an accident. Though not seriously injured, Juan's lower leg had to be bandaged up and Gabriella was quite shaken up. Maru also mentionned that a few weeks ago her co-worker friend was involved in a serious accident when his car went over the edge of the road and rolled a few hundred feet down into a ravine.

Juan and "Gaby" livened up Maru's big house, and over the next few days we all had great conversation, super diners (thank-you Maru) in front of a blazing fireplace, and even a DVD movie thanks to Juan and Gaby's laptop PC.

The next few days were spent visiting SCC and a few surrounding towns, one of which was Zinacantan to which I rode the 10 kms. with Gabriella who kept me laughing all the way. Zinacantan is a small orderly clean town to be contrasted to another nearby town of San Juan Chamula which was much livelier and considerably dirtier.

SJC is among other things known for its unique religious practices or rituals. There is supposedly a huge sign at the entrance to town, which I didn't see, forbidding any photography.

While mainly Christian, the Tzotzil people, like many others of the small remote towns of both Mexico and Central America also embrace pagan beliefs. There was a very colorful religious procession in the Centro as I rode into town. After watching a few minutes I took out my camera to take a few photos. Almost immediatly I was pelted by corn cobs which litter most streets, tomatoes, and a few rocks, amid much shouting by men waving sticks. I quickly got the point and left as fast as I could. Another tourist, a Mexican, saw what happened and explained that these people could be quite dangerous if provoked and could actually destroy my camera, if not me!

I decided to visit the church where I was treated to another amazing site. The floor was covered with pine needles to a depth of a few inches and covered with thousands of lit candles, groups of which were surrounded by families chanting and rocking while kneeling with their faces to the pine needles. The darkness, broken only by the candles, along with the candle and inscence smoke and pine smell, and the sound of hundreds of chanting people created quite a powerful impression.The men were surrounded by 5 to 10 bottles of cokes and other softdrinks as well as eggs or bones. Images/statues of saints dressed in holy garments are surrounded with mirrors. The Chamulans revere San Juan Bautista (Saint John The Baptist) above Christ (a place for you, FatCat), and his image has the most important place in the church. The chanters rub themselves with the bones and eggs while drinking their soft drinks, which facilitate burping which is believed to expel evil spirits....wow...and I thought Judiasm was complicated!

After leaving the curch I went back out into the bright sun to watch the rest of the religious ceremony sans camera. When they saw me return, a few of the men with big sticks stood beside me all the time. Every 10 minutes or so the other men would pack around 15 steel cylinders about 10 inches high and 3 inches in diameter with gun powder. Then they would hold these above their heads and light a fuse causing deafening explosions.

Before leaving SCC for the jungle and much warmer weather I visited the amazing museo Na-Bolom - a beautiful 19th century house originally the home of anthropologist Trudy Blom and her archaeologist husband who studied, photographed and helped the Mayans and protected the scattered Lacandones (people) with whom I stayed with in the jungle in my next stop.

My last stop in SCC was at Servico Aguilar, where the owner Alfredo extended to me the most helpful and professional service possible. Changing the oil was easy, but getting a filter for a bike that does not officially exist south if the USA was not. This was despite the fact that Alfredo owned a bike the SAME as mine - the only other I have seen. After a few calls, Alfredo located a filter in Mexico DF and had it FedEx'ed the next day. After many hours chatting with Alfredo who left me with his personel home and cell number, his friends, and workers, I returned to Maru's for a final dinner with the gang and left early the next day for a prearranged adventure trip with a very professional outfitter, "Explora" in the remote areas of north eastern Chiapas in the Lacandon Jungle.

I was a little nervous about this trip, since it meant passing through Ocosingo, and Palenque on some remote roads.

Here is what the official position of the Canadian government says,

"This Travel Report replaces the previous one, dated June 21, 2004.

2. ATTENTION

Unrest in the municipality of Ocosingo, Chiapas, has resulted in the blockade of a foreign-owned hotel/ranch. Canadians travelling to the state of Chiapas are advised to exercise caution, remain in known and well-frequented tourist areas such as Tuxtla Gutierrez and San Cristóbal, and avoid areas of political tension (particularly in the highlands). Travel between Palenque and San Cristóbal and in the area north and northeast of San Cristóbal should be avoided. It is recommended you carry a valid photo identification with you at all times while travelling in Mexico."

Bus crashes occur frequently in the states of Chiapas and Oaxaca due to poor road conditions and mountainous terrain. Avoid road travel after dark.

Next report.....the Lacandon Jungle