• Robert
    Oldfield
Vehicle Type
Motorcycle

ATW 2010 forwards

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During the Christmas holidays Sheila and myself discussed going to India on a couple of Enfield motorcycles. This is now not going to happen. Early in January Sheila was diagnosed with lung cancer and during the following months she fought a brave but ultimately futile fight against the decease. At 8:30 on the 28th April 2017 Sheila died. Sheila was my whole world and nothing will ever be the same without her. I intend to complete our planned trip and will continue to use this blog to keep everyone updated. Always do things when you can as you may not be able tomorrow.

Story begins
06 May 2017
Visiting

Updates

2010-02-23

Date of update

Departure Minus 1 Week.

Still at Home100_0117.jpg
Us and the bikes on a cold February morning.
Everything is packed, we just need to organise ourselves.

First proper entry will be posted once we are under way.

Week 2-3

Date of update

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Harbour at Vada, northern Italy.

11th March – Made an executive decision to travel down Italy’s leg to avoid the snowstorms etc in northern Italy and Balkans. Found small pension right on the harbour at Vada. Bob took the accompanying photo, which his Dad would be ever so proud of.
12th March – Motorway miles to head south. Lovely mountains on left and Med sea on right.

Week 3-4

Date of update

101_0780.jpg

Phrases you thought you’d never hear. Here’s Bob cooking tea! The best rice I’ve ever tasted.

Week 7-8

Date of update

The nylon shell-suit is alive and well in living in the Eastern-bloc countries of Bulgaria and Romania. I’ve never felt so bang-on-trend!

April 15th - Border crossing between Romania, Moldova and Ukraine was a nightmare – had to go into Moldova twice, and got stung for a Green Card the second time. Stayed in a state-run hotel in Izmajil in Ukraine. When we booked in, we had to choose our breakfast for the following morning – “you may have porridge or one egg or one omelette, and tea” said the receptionist, and she wasn’t joking.

Week 9-12

Date of update

Our track is not only shown by our maps and GPS, but also by the increase in chocolate consumption. Bob seems to have kick-started the slab chocolate distribution industry single-handedly – almost every bar we’ve bought has been close (or past) its sell-by-date, and we’re currently up to about 3 bars per day. So anyone following us through these countries will at least have ‘fresh’ bars to buy!

Week 13-14

Date of update

May 28th – there are probably worse places to be stuck than Ulaanbaatar, but at the moment, I can’t think where. We’re just leaking money here for some reason. I thought this part of Asia would be relatively cheap but not so. The shipping company are messing about, and the guy we’re dealing with seems not to understand words like ‘important to us’, ‘precious’, ‘all we own’. They don’t seem to have any idea of how to ship the bikes, and have just printed off the Internet a ‘how to prepare a bike for air-freight’ document. It’s all so frustrating.

Week 15-17

Date of update

June 14th – The shipping company operative has now decided that the fuel tanks should have been emptied, and that it’s too difficult for him to empty them, and would we like to post the keys, or return to UB to do it ourselves! What an idiot this guy is -we sent him a youtube video of how to siphon fluids. Decided to go to Cambodia for a couple of days, since the bikes seem to be going nowhere still.

Week 18-19

Date of update

July 10th – took the bikes to a car-wash place, to get them jet-washed. The Aussies are paranoid about dirt and dust on anything they import, so everything has to be show-room clean. Including us allegedly – that could prove a bit more difficult!

Week 20-23

Date of update

Since we’re now technically out of Asia, I thought we’d also include a generalised summary of what we’ve thought about Europe and Asia so far:

Week 24 - 28

Date of update

August 17th – started talking to a lady with a crash helmet who appeared at breakfast time. She was from Sydney (although originally from Bexhill years ago) and was touring round the coastal roads for 5 months. She’d come off her bike (F650GS), and it was being fixed at the same BMW dealer. So we swapped stories, realized we had a lot in common and got on really well. Lizzy was also responsible for our first trip in a police-car with Perth’s finest!

Week 29 - 34

Date of update

September 17th – travelling South through Ayr, Mackay and Gladstone, we realized we hadn’t seen the Great Barrier Reef yet, and were in danger of going past it. So we stopped at the strangely-named Town Of 1770 and treated ourselves by booking a day-trip to Lady Musgrave Island.

Week 35 - 37

Date of update

October 30th – dropped campervan off early, and got the Metro to the Airport. We reckon we’ve done another 1970 miles in the last 9 days on our second visit to Oz.

Week 38 - 39

Date of update

November 19th – Went past a place called Sheffield today. And we had to go through a U.S. Border Patrol checkpoint – they were looking for Mexican illegals, and they allegedly drop over the mountains into America.

November 20th - Went to the Alamo, in San Antonio, although the museum was more about the John Wayne film but very interesting nevertheless – another educational day.

And we had our first “we’ve been there” moment, when we watched Prince Caspian on TV, and the beginning showed Cathedral Cove (New Zealand).

Week 39 - 40

Date of update

December 2nd – Spent all day at the Kennedy Space Center, with a tour to the enormous Vehicle Assembly Building, and as close to the launchpads as you can get. (There was supposed to be a Shuttle launch tomorrow, but it’s been postponed as they’d found some problems.) Saw an amazing Imax 3-D film about the Hubble Telescope. Another fantastic day.

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Explorer – seemed apt somehow.

Year 2_Week 1

Date of update

Well as promised, we’re off again. We arrived back in Sheffield just in time for Christmas, and just after the minus 15 temperatures Britain had been having. Needless to say when we arrived back all the pipes in the garage had burst, so the first two days were spent replacing those, so we had no heating and no water. Just as well we’re used to roughing it!

Year 2_Week 2-4

Date of update

Our first trip included lots of natural disasters and extreme weather, but usually had the decency to wait until we’d got out of the country before happening. But not this trip.

Given the amount of coverage the snowy weather has been getting on the local TV, we’ve come to the conclusion that it’s definitely not normal weather for this time of year. This was confirmed when it mentioned on CNN that Turkey was having their worst snow in 10 years – just our luck really. Sub-Saharan Africa is not going to know what‘s hit it once we get there!

Year 2_Week 8 – 9

Date of update

April 19th: We seem to have broken Robert’s GPS completely (who’d have thought a piece of marine-standard equipment wouldn’t have liked being washed!), so it was good that Sheila had a back-up one, even though she had no idea how to use it. Fortunately it was a straight road out of Nairobi (Kenya) and into Tanzania.