UK - NZ, 2003 - 2005
Follow this story by emailA Travel Story by Richard Parkinson and Lisa Godfery
A Travel Story by Richard Parkinson and Lisa Godfery
Finally, we've done it!
Only 2 days later than planned we finally managed to depart on our oddessy on a fittingly grey and drizzly English morning.
Leaving London
On Wednesday morning we finally departed London, crossed the channel and started heading southeast.
Bugger.
My Kiwi 'she'll be right' approach to the amount of miles I've clocked up on the TDM over the course of 2 years blasting around the south of England for my job has finally caught up with us.
The bike had started running a bit rough through the south of France and into Italy so I gave myself a maintenance day at Lago D'Orta, stripped down and cleaned the carbs & replaced the plugs & leads.
We're still knocking around Hungary rather than exploring Romania due to visa hassles - but more of that later.
We left Slovenia 6 days ago and continued on to Keszthely on the shores of Lake Balaton. Not so impressed with Lake Balaton seems like half of Germany is holidaying here and everyone seems unimpressed at our inability to speak German.
Trans Fargasian Highway
The last 10 days have seen us travel from Hungary to Romania (the Romanian Embassy issued our visas next day in Budapest), through Bulgaria to Greece where we are now on the coast in Thessaloniki and where I am slowly but surely becoming addicted to Ouzo and Rich getting the required levels of Mythos beer back into his system.
One month of sunny weather, one continent, one major breakdown. Two out of three isn't too bad and at least it wasn't Rich or I that had the breakdown. Bob the bike is now sorted and we've had no further problems (although some slightly dodgy Turkish fuel gave us similar symptoms, which had us slightly worried).
In over 24 years of riding I thought I had encountered pretty much every conceivable road surface but Iran had a new one in store for us - the freshly oiled road!!
We had planned to stay for only 2 days in Esfahan but in the end it was 5. Famous for its delicious nougat, it probably is, as our guidebook states, Iran's masterpiece, the jewel of ancient Persia and one of the finest cities in the Islamic world. Its focal point is the spectacular Emam Khomeini Square that contains gardens, pools, fountains, horse and carriages, the bazaar entrance, a palace and 2 mosques.
Deserts are hot, mountains are cold. A rather obvious concept that has been reinforced by our experiences here in Pakistan.
From Bam in Iran through to Quetta in Pakistan is a 1000km ride across the desert through the bad lands of Baloucistan.
Bam, a small oasis town covered in date palms with an amazing old adobe citadel, had seemed warm to us but it was only a foretaste of what was to come.
click here to see a TDM850 Lowrider
Bugger. Mechanical meyhem.Its been a busy month since we last wrote. After returning down the KKH to Gilgit we decided to brave another cold valley and rode up to Khapulu, past Skardu.
We were shocked and saddened to hear about the earthquake that has devastated Bam. Our hearts go out to the survivors and we hope the wonderful people we met there are OK. A German biker passed through the day after the quake and reported that the guesthouse we stayed at was flattened. Akbar, the owner and his staff thankfully survived but we believe one English tourist was killed: http://www.erwinvoogt.com/overland/bam.html
Got sick of gorgeous hilltop forts, opulent palaces, coloured cites, snake charmers and Rajasthani women in colourful dress trying to sell us silver ankle chains and brightly painted puppets. We were really feeling the winter too (down to 20 degrees in the day is just not acceptable) so we finally left Rajasthan after nearly 3 weeks there - it really is enough for a holiday in itself.
Its been six weeks since we last wrote due in part to our not having the laptop with us.
We have a confession to make purporting to be motorcycle travellers whilst really we have been scumming it on public transport.
One last photo of India, shot on the way to the Nepalese border, to show that even cows dont escape Holi, the Festival of Colours.
We arrived in Thailand by air; not at all our usual style but we thought it was impossible to come overland from the Indian subcontinent to Thailand.
Firstly the crazy money China demands from those bringing in their own vehicle is prohibitive for us (around US$200 per day) and secondly, because Myanmar doesnt allow travellers to transit across the country, or so we thought .
Lovely Laos. The Land of a Million Elephants, or so they say. Personally, I saw two. It is however, at this time of year, the land of umpteen trillion butterflies which are very beautiful except when you have to constantly clean them off your visor.
This month we celebrate one year on the road, 37,000 miles traveled and 20 countries visited.
With its steaming jungles, smoking volcanoes and pounding surf Indonesia is a land for adventure. Our first adventure was getting the bike over here.