Pakistan - India
click here to see a TDM850 Lowrider
Bugger. Mechanical meyhem.Its been a busy month since we last wrote. After returning down the KKH to Gilgit we decided to brave another cold valley and rode up to Khapulu, past Skardu.
Despite being the only road link into disputed territories with India, the road here is worse than the KKH, being mostly one lane, very rough and cut into the cliff above a river running through a gorge. Its a manic days ride with blind bends that have crazy truck drivers appearing just where you dont want them. We covered 230km in 6 hours after which Rich was exhausted but we were treated to a spectacular vista at the end. A huge open basin with a river bed meandering through sand dunes and surrounded by snow capped mountains. Whilst the view was spectacular, the scruffy town of Skardu was not, but we rode another day further up the valley to Khapulu, a very beautiful and friendly village in an amazing setting. We could go no further for the valley has the Siachen glacier at its head. This is contested with India so we found a few roads off limits to all but the army.
Leaving the mountains of Pakistan behind for the last time and heading south on the KKH we passed a BMW GS riding north. We had thought we were the only ones mad enough to be up here on a bike at this time of year so were pleasantly surprised to meet Brian and Shirley, a couple riding from the UK to Melbourne (www.aussiesoverland.com).
After chatting to them for about an hour we pushed on to get to our destination of Besham by nightfall but were delayed when we rounded a bend and found the bike coming to a grinding halt on the road beneath us. It was with some dismay that Rich discovered the top suspension mount had broken and the bike was literally sitting on the road (see pics for better idea). The rough roads wed been enjoying for the past 3 weeks had finally taken their toll on our loaded bike and we werent going anywhere fast. The first vehicle to stop 5 minutes later had the District Commissioner in charge of the Kohistan region on board with 10 armed cops along for the ride. This meant that the next pickup truck to come along was easily persuaded to take us and the bike to Besham where Rich spent the next day welding together a new mount. All seems to be hanging together so far but we were initially nervous going over bumps at any speed.
We headed to Peshawar, home of the legendary Pathans, one of the largest tribal societies in the world. They are known for both their incredible hospitality, extended without question to all strangers and guests and their long running blood feuds, whereby a Pathan must avenge any insult against himself, his family or his tribe if he is to retain his honour. The bazaars of the Old City combine an amazing mix of Afghani, Baluchi and Pathan cultures and I had been looking forward to doing some shopping. I was disappointed however as everything was closed for Eid (end of Ramadan celebrations) for 3 days so we were unable to see much.
click here for a night at the movies
Next stop Islamabad where we enjoyed the hospitality and ex-pat luxury of Ian Robinson (who we linked up with on the Horizons Unlimited website). Being a newish city Islamabad doesnt have a lot of sights but we managed to stay for 5 days hanging around his washing machine and enjoying western food.
Finally to Lahore, where we caught a couple of amazing local Sufi music shows which are held every Thursday. These were pretty much men only affairs but exceptions seem to be made for western women and we were surprised to see so much expression and freedom after experiencing so much reserve in this very Muslim country.
click here for an image from our daytime Sufi exerience
We enjoyed Pakistan so much that we spent 5 weeks here instead of the planned 4. Finally the border another one with no baksheesh and no delays. The Indian customs guys asked us to take our luggage packs off the bike so they could put them through the scanner but Rich said it was too much hassle and took too long. Would they like to look in the boot and tank bag instead? Yes, certainly sir, and would you like some chai?
Click here to see Lisa and friends
Riding into Amritsar we were struck with women walking unaccompanied, women riding scooters and pigs roaming in the streets. We stopped by the legendary Mrs Bhandaris guest house to see who was there and ended up staying a couple of nights as Brian and Shirley were there. This elegant 1960s guest house has retained its style and many of the 1930s art deco features with which it was built. Leisurely breakfasts taken on table-cloth clad tables outside in the beautiful big gardens, staff everywhere, fires lit in the fireplaces every night, fresh cream and milk daily from their water buffaloes, ice in silver icebuckets for our evening G&Ts; all this is the style we enjoyed there.
click here for another silly image
We returned to Wagah, the Pakistan-Indian border for the border closing ceremony the following night. The guards, chosen for being tall and handsome have huge preened moustaches and provide an hilarious display of high kicking, fast and furious marching, foot stomping and aggressive saluting. Each country takes this daily show as a serious, patriotic display; theres Bollywood music, fist waving crowds with their national flags and its all very Python-esque.
Amritsar is the holiest city of the Sikh community with the centerpiece of this being the Golden Temple, an elegant marble masterpiece and the lotus shaped dome of the temple is said to be gilded with 100kg of gold. We spent hours marvelling at its beauty, watching the pilgrims and joining them for a free communal meal.
Despite being the middle of December, we were yet again drawn to the mountains for the International Himalayan Festival at McLeod Ganj, home of the Dalai Lama and Tibetan community in exile. Its touristy but a laid back place to hang out and we were treated to some fantastic displays of music, dancing and culture. It felt like being on holiday in India with none of the madness and was not nearly as cold as northern Pakistan, being only 1730m. We stayed for 6 nights enjoying the vibe and Tibetan friendliness before being forced south by the approach of winter.
Continuing on our route of luxury we have been staying on the outskirts of Delhi with Lisa Roberts and Harvey Gordon-Sawyers (www.chasingthesun.org) in their beautiful apartment.
Tomorrow we will be back on the road for what feels like the true start of our Indian adventure and 3 months of craziness.