Cartagena, Colombia to Changuinola, Panama

Mon, 29/09/2014 - 12:00

With only a week left on our Colombian visas, today is the day we finally leave Columbian shores. We are up at em at a reasonable hour but are unable to have a shower or even wash our hands and face as the water in Cartagena has been turned off for 24 hours, oh well bottled water and baby wipes it is. Breakfast, then taxi to the dock where we wait to be picked up by the guys from the Stahlratte. They turn up 10 minutes later from the direction of the supermarket pushing three huge heavily laden trolleys full of supplies, the dinghy is loaded up and we jump in to it and head out to the beautiful old boat that is to become our home for the next few days.

Now to explain: the Stahlratte is a 100 year old metal ship owned by a German Not for profit consortium that saved her from the scrap heap to use as sailing training vessel. While sleeping arrangements are very basic, the boat has an old world charm about her. In order for us to travel on her, we all sign on as crew.

Lan waiting at the dock, ready to board the Stahlratte

As we board we can see the bike is safely tucked up on the front deck, as is all our gear which is safely stowed below. We get first pick of the small curtained rooms complete with double bed and get ourselves organised, then it is up on deck to help the crew, Juan & John (both Spanish) and Miguel (German) put the groceries away before we get to meet our fellow travellers who arrive in dribs and drabs.

The bike safely tucked up on the deck of the Stahlratte

We are a motley crew, Livia and Jens (two Swiss overlanders), Ruth and Will (two British cyclists) and Phillip, Anja, Franziskus, Simon and Susanne (5 German backpackers). And of course our boat is not complete without a mention of our Captain, Ludwig, more affectionately known as Lulu who looks more like a slightly rotund, beer swilling German hippie, however we soon learn that appearances can be extremely deceptive.

Skill waiting to leave Cartagena Harbour

Once we are all on board, Lulu quickly assumes his very organised and forthright German alta ego as Captain, albeit still shirtless, the engines are fired up and we chug our way out of Cartagena Harbour to the open sea where we are blessed with calm seas, not good for a sailing boat but we are under motor. John who has recently joined the crew fresh from Spain has brought an amazing array of goodies with him including exquisite chorizos and double cured jamons. We have an amazing feast for lunch, fritatas, pastas and fresh crusty breads, we all comment that this is the best food we have eaten in months.

We finally leave Cartagena

Lulu at the helm - We head out towards the open sea

We now settle into a full 24 hours sailing to the San Blas Islands, because of the calm conditions we are not hampered by sea sickness and enjoy being able to move around the boat easily, I grab my book and a beer and find a hammock, lie back and enjoy the ride.

We hit the open sea

The Crew

Sunset - Mast of the Stahlratte

Later that afternoon and evening we enjoy the company of our fellow travellers over a few drinks and a sumptuous dinner prepared by our multi talented captain, Lulu, before we head to bed for an early night. Around 1.00 am I can hear the crew closing the hatches and we can see lightning through the skylight/hatches and hear thunder even over the noise of the engine. For the next hour we pass through the storm but the calm water conditions do not change and we continue on our way with no discomfort at all, unable to believe our good fortune I drift back to sleep.

Next morning after another amazing meal we assume our positions for the day, only to be interrupted by lunch, and then finally around 2.00 we see land and finally the San Blas Islands come into view. No amount of reading or speculation can quite prepare you for the beauty of these islands, we truly are in paradise.

We reach the San Blas

We are in Paradise

Once moored Lulu and the boys whip up the most amazing BBQ feast and around sunset we get in the tender and head for one of the small islands for a BBQ and Rum Punch Party. We are joined by some local Kuna people that Lulu and the Stahlratte crew have obviously befriended over the nine years of doing this run. They organise our BBQ, and make us all comfortable before joining us for dinner. Later after we have finished dinner, they take all the leftovers including mountainous plates of potato salad, softdrinks and beers back to their own island obviously to share with their families. We wondered why Lulu and the crew were making so much food for 15 people. It is not the first time we see such generosity from the Stahlratte family. A late night ensues before we finally return to our haven and fall asleep to the gentle lapping of the sea

BBQ in the San Blas

Lan and Skill enjoying the San Blas

Sunset over the Stahratte

Next morning we are shocked to see a huge pile of rubbish laying on the small island where we had so enjoyed ourselves the night before. The price of progress, apparently this is a common occurrence, rich Panamanian boaties often leave their rubbish on the islands. We are completely gobsmacked and the crew begin the clean up, something they do nearly every time they cross.

We enjoy an amazing day, we get to explore the small uninhabited islands at will, swim, and snorkel for most of the time, the only interruption to these pursuits are the feasts that the crew cook up for us. Once again we are joined by a variety of Kuna people (people indigenous to the San Blas islands) who come on board either for a chat with Lulu, or to get some food or sell us local produce, or simply to give the crew some local produce. We are very blessed to have had this opportunity as only a few tourist boats are allowed to have their passengers land on the more remote islands, it is only through Lulus generosity and ability to establish good relationships that we are allowed this privilege and it is indeed a privelege.

An idyllic day in paradise.

Snorkelling

Local produce for sale

Sunset on a perfect day

Sunset on board the Stahratte

Unfortunately all good things come to an end, the following morning after breakfast, we motor towards one of the more populated islands where our passports will pass through immigration, then it is off to the tiny mainland village of Carti where the bike is offloaded at the wharf, and two more German owned bikes are loaded on for the return journey.

The bike is unloaded at Carti dock Part one

The bike is unloaded at Carti dock Part two

The bike is unloaded at Carti dock Part three

Offloaded and ready to go ....... except for the two hour wait for passports

We also get off the boat after quick goodbyes to our fellow passengers who will spend the night on one of the populated islands before they are transported to Panama city tomorrow. We on the other hand are ready to head there today. Unfortunately the Panamanian authorities are being tardy today and we have a two hour wait for our passports, but once Juan safely delivers them to us in the dinghy, we say our thankful goodbyes and are off. The ride is in a word spectacular, a roller-coaster on a small paved road through the jungle. At times the climbs are so steep the front of the bike feels decidedly light. After nearly an hour we join the Pan American and it is into the maze that is Panama City. Our first impressions are not that favourable after being abused by an irate bus driver because we had the audacity to hold up the toll queue for a whole minute while we bought a toll card, he passed us a while later down the road still hurling abuse and waving his fist at us. Welcome to Panama!!!!!!!!!

Armed with Caroline's instructions (as in Husquvana riding Jim and Caroline who we met in Medellin) and GPS co-ordinates we find the aduana office at the back of the Airport in a pretty dodgy looking part of town. The disinterested woman official finally tears herself away from the soap opera on television and her incessant texting to process the bike. In her rush to get back to the soap, she stamps our bike in for two years and three months. Oh well her problem, we get out of there and head towards Punta Pacifica, a suburb in Panama City to find Cat and Kev's apartment, after only one wrong turn we find the apartment, ring upstairs and are met by Cat. We get the bike parked up and unloaded and are also welcomed by Kev and Martin (another motorcyclist staying in Panama city for bike repairs), after getting ourselves sorted we relax with several beers, a tapas dinner and the company of friends, it has been a while since we have had familiar faces around us and it feels really good, it is wonderful to see this pair again after three years.

Next morning we are greeted by Cat and Kev and as we are deciding what to have for breakfast Kev discovers that the front door to the apartment will not unlock, after several attempts by each of us, it is stuck fast so we have a great breakfast with what's in the fridge before phoning downstairs for help. The manager eventually makes an appearance on the other side and after a bit of to and froing confirms that we are indeed locked in and he will need to phone a locksmith.

We spend a pleasant morning and afternoon catching up and chatting about respective travels and future plans, until finally at around 2.00 pm the locksmith shows up and half an hour later he bursts through the door and we are freed from our captivity on the 15th floor. We were all very pleased by this, as having NO means of escape from a high rise apartment is a bit of a worry. Skill and I venture out to the supermarket and are absolutely amazed at the variety of groceries on offer, not to mention the fact that everyone speaks English. That night we manage to cook dinner and have an early night.

We end up spending a total of six nights with Cat and Kev and thank them for their generosity, we had such a great time. Each day is vaguely familiar and the time goes so quickly, I know we spent a lot of time chatting and catching up. It is also around this time we get an email from Caroline and Jim, unfortunately it is not good news, Caroline has had a minor off at walking speed resulting in a major broken ankle, she has had it plated and pinned in a Nicaraguan hospital and is recuperating on Ometpe Island.

View from Cat and Kev's condo Panama City

On one day we grab a taxi and venture out to track down our elusive insurance and some bike parts, on another we visit the Miraflores Locks, part of the 80 km stretch of water that cuts through the continental divide, it truly is an engineering marvel. Around 13000 vessels pass through each year. August this year saw the 100th anniversary of the first ship passing through the Locks.

Miraflores Locks Panama

Lan and Skill at the Miraflores Locks Panama

Cat and Kev at the controls - Miraflores Locks

We also get to spend a lovely evening out with Martin (our new found German Biking friend riding a BMW 650), Allison (another person whom we did not know but whom we have an amazing amount of friends in common) and Cat and Kev. We attack the 'all you can eat sushi dinner' at the very up market restaurant. It was a treat to be amongst friends, new and old eating sushi in very posh surroundings, something we have not done in a long time.

All good things must come to an end and we say goodbye to Cat and Kev, load up and head out of Panama city on Sunday morning through very limited traffic which was a good plan.

We head out of Panama City

It is quite a pleasant ride along the Pan American and at a stop for fuel and food we are accosted by some very friendly Harley riders heading off to a rally, it is a very hot day so we decline their offer to join them and head for the hills, we are off to Santa Fe, a small mountain town about 60 kilometres off the Pan American.

Parked next to the Harley riders

It is a beautiful ride and we luck in on a lovely hostel where we chill back for the evening making use of the great kitchen and our emergency pasta supplies to supplement the limited local supplies. At night it is beautiful and cool so we get a good nights sleep.

Next day we backtrack to the town of Santiago where Skill thought he saw a car tyre and servicing place that sold Motul oil, we were in luck as they only had 3 litres of the motorcycle oil left (the exact amount we needed) and after a bit of consternation and intervention from a lovely English speaking local they agree to let Skill do the oil change there. It is incredibly hot and Skill is a lather of sweat while I sit in air-conditioned comfort of the waiting room. We get away around lunch time and don't really have a destination in mind, somewhere along the coast, the temperatures really are stifling and having to stop for road works and a minor burning truck emergency adds to our discomfort.

A bit hard to see but the old truck was on fire

We are struggling to stay hydrated. Oddly enough about 100 km up the road we come across Will and Ruth (the British cyclists who were on the Stahlratte with us), after we all down more fluids, it is a quick catch up they tell us they are headed to a hostel not far up the road at Las Lajas and give us the GPS co-ordinates, as storms are building all around us we decide to stay there for the night as well. We arrive safely and Will and Ruth cycle in about ¾ of an hour later.

The rooms in the place are lovely and we opt for air-conditioned comfort, each room is themed, we get the Mexico room and Will and Ruth take Germany.

Our themed room at the Paradise Inn

After a swim and a couple of refreshing ales the heavens open up and it pours. This continues for most of the night and into the next day.

We have that huge pool to ourselves

The rain begins

As we awake early to heavy rain we roll over and decide to stay another night. Will and Ruth do the same and we spend a lazy day watching the torrential rain, at one point we get a break in the weather and wander into the village for lunch supplies and on return Skill even manages to give the bike a good wash.

Skill gives the bike a much needed wash.

Later in the evening we share a meal in the restaurant with Will and Ruth.

Dinner with Will and Ruth

We have a reasonably early night and are up bright and early next morning, after a great breakfast we head out saying goodbye to Will and Ruth who will continue in a different direction to us.

Will and Ruth ready to leave

The days ride takes us up over the mountains from the Pacific side of Panama to the Carribean side, it was a fabulous ride, taking us up to 1200 metres before dropping back down again. After leaving Las Lajas we are bombarded with these signs about every 500 metres, we didn't actually see any of the animals signposted.

A barrage of signs

A great days ride from one side of Panama to the other

Once we hit the Carribean side we have a lovely ride to the border town of Changuinola which is famous for it huge banana plantations owned by the Chiriqui Land Company, the very same people who bring us Chiquita Bananas, and while the town itself is your typical border town the hotel is clean, comfortable and most importantly air conditioned. We bunker down for the evening wondering what tomorrow will bring. Roll on Costa Rica.