Blue Silk
Leaving Turkmenistan was a sort of relief... the levels of hospitality there were just amazing but corrupt police and army officers make life very difficult for travelers. Apart from that, I had a four day transit visa and did not really like the idea of overstaying in the country. Across the border from Dashoguz lies Uzbekistan and I was leaving a police state to enter... another police state!
Uzbekistan is not remotely as closed as its southern neighbor, mainly because of its Silk Road tourist attractions and the money that tourists bring into the country. Turkmenistan, on the other hand, does not have much to offer tourists and has plenty of natural resources so its mysterious dictator can afford virtually locking up the country to the rest of the world. That is not Uzbekistan's case but their relationship with neighbors is far from harmonious... they have conflicts with all of them and given the republic's geographical location, that means all other Central Asian countries.
My actual experience crossing the border was not that bad and, compared to Turkmenistan, I even felt kind of welcome on the Uzbek side. It was getting dark and I still needed to drive about one hour to Khiva, with worse roads and traffic. I guess more potholes and donkeys on the road are a sign of a less developed country but there are many ways to measure development, right?
Khiva's old town makes for a pleasant day stroll but it is not that big and was intensively restored in Soviet times, probably too much. Those monuments are definitely impressive but have a certain fake look and feel, being too perfect and unused. The thousand souvenir stalls, restaurants and cafes that flood the old town do not help to create a more credible atmosphere and stepping out of the walled city means entering an ex-communist town in the middle of the desert, not very different from anything you can find in Georgia, Latvia or probably Vladivostok.
This is one of the biggest madrassas in town, where Islam used to be taught many years ago but where nowadays you can only find people trying to sell something to visitors. The highest minaret in Khiva is also visible on the right side.
After having properly rested from the drive across the Karakum desert, I went on along the Silk Road to the city of Bukhara. To be fair, there is not just one Silk Road but a collection of paths used in the old times to trade between Europe and Asia. However, in this desert area, most traders were funneled along the course of the Amu-Darya river and that is why these posts on the road had so much strategic significance. Between Khiva and Bukhara, there is basically nothing for 500km, just desert, but the road is decent and the ride was enjoyable.
Bukhara's old town is bigger and more alive than Khiva's counterpart, but still looked somehow fake to me. Besides, the number of tourists were increasing to levels unseen since Western Turkey and that was sort of annoying... riding your bike for months to get there while people just take one week off work and fly. And it is not only about the number of tourists but the kind of tourists... being used to those experienced travelers who venture into Iran, interacting with package holiday makers was not my cup of tea.
Anyway, I continued resting in Bukhara and also visited the city, took some pictures and drank a couple of beers. The Kalyan minaret is one of the most famous sights in town and the outside is decorated with beautiful patterns. Genghis Khan was so impressed when he saw it that he decided to spare it, while the rest of the city was destroyed during the Mongol invasions.
And now one of the few 'normal life' scenes I could witness in Bukhara... women buying melons in the market. Those rugs in the background are also very special because they are not for tourists... they are made for locals by locals!
The hotel I stayed at became a spontaneous gathering place for bikers, proving that the Amu-Darya funnels travelers in this region. From bottom to top, you can see Stuart, Martin, Roland, me and Willi. Remember the first and the last because you will hear from then again in this blog.
And enjoy the video!