That´s how far and how long.I´m in Fortaleza, which is more civilised a place than some. Being Easter weekend has meant slightly rearranged plans, but even so I´ve managed a new back tyre and a major service.

The Metzeler I had fitted in Viedma only lasted 5,000 miles (so don´t bother with Metzeler Saharas), and in addition had a couple of chunks missing which appeared due to delamination of the tread from the carcase; having said that, it´s been severely challenged at times. So yesterday morning I hailed a cab (the rain was of the pressure-washer variety) and asked the driver to take me to bike shops for a new tyre. Excellent chap, made it his mission. So we found Big Motos, who had a decent selection of appropriate tyres. "Go and get the bike and we´ll fit it" they said; usually you take the tyre and bike to one of the many tyre repair/fitting establishments.

So I took the taxi back to the hotel, and then followed it back to Big Motos. "Any chance of an oil change?" I asked (again, normally one goes to a specialist establishment, available at most petrol stations). "Sure, no problem". So I was escorted around the corner to get EP90 from the nearest petrol station while the tyre was fitted; and a couple of bright young mechanics did an excellent and careful job of changing all the oils (refilling with Mobil´s best) and the filter. Being a Honda/Yamaha place they´d never worked on a BMW before and were very interested in everything about it, even having a good peruse of my trusty Haynes manual to find out more about it.

I took the opportunity of fitting new NGK plugs and caps, as well, and the entire bill was around 50 quid. Jolly nice helpful chaps, and the even gave me a company T-shirt.

Motels are funny here - very specialised. All are rather discreet, situated behind high walls and electronic gates, with extremely hidden and secure parking. Many of their names aren´t suitable for a family publication and leave little to the imagination, and the staff boggle a little when I ask for a room for an entire night, especially as I´m on my own. The beds are electrically operated, which is nice, but I´m still not sure about the ceiling mirrors. Room service is good, though. One I saw had a sign saying "Now also a hotel".