Now that we've reached Darwin (the first town with a population exceeding 3 figures we've visited for a while), it's time again to update the blog. We arrived via a series of 'alternative' routes, looking like a couple of extras from a Mad Max movie; covered from head to foot in red dust, the bike sporting a couple of dents and scrapes from various escapades along the way.

It's almost 3 weeks since we left Malanda in the Atherton Tablelands to head for Cairns via the Gillie's Highway, a fantastic ride winding its way down from the Tablelands to join the somewhat less exciting Brisbane-Cairns Bruce Highway. Given that it's the holiday season, we surprised ourselves by being organised and booked a spot in what turned out to be a rather salubrious campsite to the South of Cairns. After numerous nights basic camping in National Parks and the likes, the golf cart escort to our designated camp spot blew us away!

We'd come to Cairns not only to pay a visit, but specifically to get some work done on the bike. The paralever bearings in the rear swinging arm were worn, the final drive rubber boot cracked and the fork seals weren't sealing any longer. I'd been put in touch with Terry Scanlan, an aeronautical engineer and BM enthusiast / mechanic in his spare time. Terry's extensive workshop was impressive, as was his workmanship, I'd certainly recommend him to anyone passing through Cairns (Terry Scanlan 07-4055 4809).

Terry rebuilt the final drive, complete with a new final drive oil seal (which we noticed was weeping) and paralever pivot bearings, whilst I replaced the oil and filter. Being more familiar with earlier Airheads as opposed to the later Oilheads, Terry didn't have a suitable drift to insert the new bearings, so instead knocked one up on his lathe. The same for the replacement front fork seals, a perfect drift made up to ensure a perfect fit. Last up we adjusted the tappets and balanced the throttle bodies, the bike now set for the next few thousand K's.

Terry's wife Sylvia, kindly prepared a fantastic barbaque spread that night before we set off again the following morning for Daintree to meet our soon to become friend, Neville.

We'd been put in touch with Neville by Ken and Carol in Brisbane and were looking forward to meet the Daintree crocodile spotter and to visit his rainforest abode. We were not to be disappointed, Neville welcomed us with open arms, giving up his bed and even emptying the compost toilet to accomodate us!

As Neville worked as a nature tour guide on the Daintree river, we joined him the following morning for an educational trip on the boat, spotting a number of saltwater crocs, as well as variety of snakes, birds and plantlife. It certainly was an interesting trip and as about as close as we'd like to get to the infamous 'salties'!

(Hamish)

While at Neville's we went on a guided walk through Mossman Gorge. Our guide Raymond explained how the rainforest was utilised in every way; it was a kitchen, workshop, medicine cabinet. Although many of the trees were familiar to us from forests in Asia we discovered a lot of new uses for them. Raymond also told us how he hid in the forest from the trackers and policemen who came to take the aboriginal children to missions in a different part of the country. He managed to stay with his family; many didn't.

If you don't know about this dark chapter in the settlers' past, watch the movie "Rabbit Proof Fence".

We saw some cave paintings which clearly showed the ships of the early settlers or explorers, as well as animals around the area, for all we knew one of them could have been Cook's ship, the Endeavour...

One of the guys who lived in the community was an amazing dijeridoo player. He made it sound like a crocodile, or exactly how you'd imagine a crocodile to sound and listening to him play made the hairs on my arms stand up.

(Emma)

Neville managed to arrange a couple of days off work to take us on a ride up the coastal Bloomfield track to Cooktown, so named for the spot Captain Cook first landed in Australia back in 1770. We set off early in a drizzly rain towards Cape Tribulation, where the bitumen ended and the Bloomfield track (and fun) began.

Before too long we reached Emmagen Creek, our first crossing of the day. Em dismounted and waded accross, armed with camera to record the event. Neville crossed on his 650 Dakar without any concerns, so I followed with confidence only to slide and fall on wet river stones exiting the opposite side. We lifted the bike immediately to Emma's dismay; she didn't get a photo! Fortunately only my pride was injured and nothing else.

The track reminded me of trail riding in Malaysia, dense rainforest, rivers and slippery tracks more suited to a 250 Enduro bike than an Overlanding monster!

We arrived in Cooktown nonetheless, despite poor Em gritting her teeth for most of the way. She's turning out to be a hardy pillion, you'd not get me on the back for love nor money, especially on these roads!

Whilst in Cooktown we rode up Grassy Hill, where Captain Cook apparently climbed to look for a safe passage out of the bay where Cooktown is now located. Before returning to Daintree the following day we continued on a historical theme, checking out the Historical Society, documenting Cooktown's goldrush past.

The trip to Cooktown with Neville was one of the highlights so far, we had a blast and only wish we'd had longer. (Hamish)

It was hard to say farewell to Neville who is simply one of the nicest blokes I've ever met. We thanked him for opening up his rainforest hideaway to us and for the adventures we shared, not to mention his famous Black Sapote Milkshakes!

Neville is planning a trip to South America in 2007, with luck our paths will cross again. (Emma)