After a great few weeks, we finally managed to leave Ushuaia. We were experiencing an unusual phenomenon; we had a deadline to meet! Helen & Bob, Em’s Mum and Stepdad, were meeting up with us in El Calafate in a couple of weeks, therefore to have sufficient time to enjoy the ride North, we had to get on the road.

Adios Ushuaia

Penguins & Pipes

Before we did however, we checked out the local Maritime Museum, located in the original jail and full of information regarding past expeditions to not only Tierra del Fuego, but Antartica too. I was particularly interested to note one of the most successful 19th century Antartic exploratory expeditions was in fact a Scottish Expedition, the captain hailing from Portobello no less.

First stop was Estancia Harberton, the first estancia (farm) to be established on Tierra del Fuego back in 1886, by Englishman Thomas Bridges. He devoted his life to working with the Yamana people (ref. Em’s last blog), compiling a dictionary of their language whilst providing a safe haven for them at Harberton. Today, the estancia is still in the family, run by great grandson, Thomas Goodall.

We continued some 10kms past the estancia before setting up camp in a top spot by the Beagle Channel, named after Charles Darwin’s vessel ‘Beagle’ when he paid a visit back in 1832.

Despite the wind, we lit a fire, dined on the pebble beach, whilst watching the sun set over the Chilean island, Isla Navarino. A magical location.

oops!

Unfortunately the following morning wasn’t so magical. Being good Europeans, we stopped off on the way back to the estancia to say ‘Guten Morgan’ to a German couple also travelling on bikes, only to get stuck next to their tent. Shizer!

After this rather embarrassing experience, we made haste back to Ruta 3 and onto Tolhuin for lunch; a tasty milanesa at the local parilla.

Rather than continue up the bitumen to Rio Grande, our destination for the night, we opted to ride the ripio (dirt road) via Lago Yuhin, yet another magical setting of lakes and snowcapped mountains, fast becoming the norm in this part of the world. We had a great ride past freshly whitewashed estancias and through rolling countryside before rejoining windy Ruta 3.

Em and a Tierra del Fuego tree cast for The Matrix IV

We found our friends Val and Adam back at Hostel Argentino, once again receiving a warm welcome from owner Graciela. We'd loosely planned to ride together to Lago Blanco, a remote lake on the Chilean side of Tierra del Fuego, a region I'd later read to be "the secret haunt of Hollywood stars such as Stallone". If it's good enough for Rambo, it's good enough for me!

Check those out handguards...plastic bags!

So a couple of days later, after stocking up on food and wine, we set off in high spirits, looking forward to the prospect of idyllic camping and Adam catching the fish he'd been promising for nigh on a month. Unfortunately, about half an hour later it all went horribly wrong. Following Val along the ripio we helplessly watched in horror as her bike replicated an angry bucking bronco, before tossing her over the 'bars and into the verge. Poor Val had lost control in the soft centre, where all the loose gravel accumulates. Fortunately, after the initial shock, we established all to be ok, bar a few bruises and a black eye. The bike was in a similar condition, ok, bar a few bruises.

We were therefore runited with Graciela a little earlier than anticipated, returning to Rio Grande to have Val checked out by the Doc and to knock the bike back into shape. Literally!

Whilst Val rested the following day, Adam and I patched up Val's bike, ready for another adventure. I actually quite enjoy a wee project, so it was no hardship, nonetheless Val very kindly rewarded me with a bottle of Highland Park for my efforts. Mucho appreciated!

Now Val's a tough nut, but even she surprised us all by announcing that evening that she was ready to ride the following day. Respect! So with a certain feeling of deja vu, we set off the next day, albeit minus the eggs from the first attempt!

We were not to be disappointed by Lago Blanco. Despite its significance, no one was around, providing the idyllic spot we were looking for. If only Adam could catch that fish...

Whilst we chilled out, Adam cast his fly, disappearing for hours at a time, only to return empty handed.

Fishin'

Chillin'

We were begining to think the only fish we'd be eating was the tin of tuna we'd brought along, when Adam returned to camp grinning like a Cheshire cat, having caught a fair sized brown trout.

A certain cause for celebration, the Highland Park was cracked open whilst the fish baked over the fire. As if on cue, the sunset that night was spectacular, an array of golds, pinks and deep reds. I doesn't get much better than this; good friends, good spot, good times.

Our only camp visitor

With still another three days riding before meeting Helen & Bob, we had to get a move on, so saying good-bye to Lago Blanco, we rode the 250kms of ripio up to Porvenir where we'd catch the ferry to Punta Arenas. The traffic was horrendous...

We'd heard various horror stories about the Porvenir ferry; rough seas, bikes falling over, long waits...fortunately the sea was like glass, with a sailing only two hours upon arriving. Enough time for a beer and a milanesa.

We crossed the Magellan Straits for a second time, leaving Tierra del Fuego behind, bringing an end to a great chapter and the start of a fresh one. Named after Portugese explorer, Ferdinand Magellan, who in 1520 was the first European to sail the straight which separates Tierra del Fuego from mainland Chile. He was also responsible for the island's name "The Land of Fire", as a result of the Yamana's continual fires.

After a brief night in a wet and windy Punta Arenas, we bid fairwell to our travelling pals and headed off in driving rain for Puerto Natales. Val and Adam had more sense and stayed in bed.

In what seems to be the way in this part of the world, the weather didn't last for long, the rain stopping as we turned off the bitumen for yet more ripio excursions. We hadn't travelled 500m when Em told me to turn round, she'd spotted an armadillo scurrying around at the side of the road.

Get off my land!

Half an hour later the next nature stop involved a defensive skunk. He was not amused to have us invade his space, performing a comical dance as a result.

Doc Nescafe & Em

By this time we were in need of a coffee, so stopped off at what we thought was a restaurant, but in actual fact a rural medical centre! Not to disappoint, the Doc insisted we had a cuppa in the surgery whilst informing us about the local health problems, in Spanish! Top bloke.

Mine's bigger than yours!

Before reaching Puerto Natales we bumped into Canadian Lucy, one of many cyclists we've met along the way. Hardcore nutters!

The following day we enjoyed a scenic ride up to the Argentine border, making our deadline to be in El Calafate. I don't think Em would have forgiven me otherwise! We're now enjoying catching up with Helen and Bob, checking out the glaciers and as is always the case with family, eating and drinking too much.

Next on the agenda is Torres del Paine National Park, where we'll say farewell to Helen & Bob, do a spot of camping and trekking, before continuing North. It's a tough life, but someone's got to do it...

(Hamish)