Late last night I discovered that Morocco operates on GMT all year round. What I thought was 9 or maybe 8 AM was actually 7AM. Not so critical of the late mornings, whoops. After a genuine lie in this morning until a real 8am I went to a cafe in town for breakfast and then set off for what was intended to be a slow speed exploration of minor roads in the Middle Atlas with a relaxed intent to reach either Midelt or if time allowed Er-Rachidia. True to the plan I turned off the wonderful tarmac of the RN13 and headed off a little yellow road. The map showed the yellow would turn to white after a village but looked manageable on the map. Jackki will be laughing already knowing how this would work out just like every time I drag her out walking. Well the tarmac gradually faded away to be replaced by hard packed stones which gradually faded away to loose packed stones and gravel. These were soon added to by big stones and ruts in the path that had this off road novice on touring tyres bricking himself but insisting it would get better soon. The White Road.........

Stopped at the top of a steep descent to allow a van to come up the hill, bike hit big soon and down she went at a standstill. Discovered just how heavy it is when full of luggage but kind chaps in the van helped me pick her up. You may notice at this point that the bike has become firmly female and I refer to us, we etc.. This is an affliction I have picked up to justify talking to myself while riding since I am clearly talking to ,y partner in crime the VStrom. Anyway no damage done and being too stubborn or stupid to give up and turn around at this point on I went. The piste got progressively worse but still a clear route and for an off road rider would I am be classed as easy. I could see a good bridge over a river ahead and was spurred on to think that tar,ac ,ust be getting close. On the other side of the bridge was what can only be described as a steep uphill footpath that I could never have convinced Jackki to walk up. Bugger. Chatted to some kids, gave away first of the goodies brought along for this purpose and from one of the older ones eventually worked out where I was. Choice was turn around and retrace 10 miles of piste and find a different tarmac route orcarry on towards Kenifra up the aforementioned footpath. Finally seeing sense I turned around. Pride stinging I gunned the throttle up the hill away from the river and found the bike transformed. It turns out to be true that a little confidence and picking up the pace is far far easier than tip toeing around. Bike and rider now feel we are piste novices rather than virgins and the route back worked out well. The tarmac roads were simply brilliant and the gorges and mountains were stunning. I should mention also that it was bloody freezing in the mountains including small bits of snow still lying in odd places off the roads. Snow!!

Back on the RN13 mid afternoon I had a great lunch in Midelt. Met some really nice Berber people who werent too upset when I flat refused to buy even a small carpet! The roads now through the mountains make the stuff I was raving about in Spain seem very tame. Carried on to Er Rachidia from where I write this entry. Hotel looks okay but the place seems to lack any sense of a central area. Wishing I had stopped earlier at one of the Auberges by the side of the road down through the most stunning gorge I have seen so far in the High Atlas. Tomorrow we head for the Sahara and a likely tourist trip on a camel into the sand dunes