The Great Escapes XI

A Travel Story by Robert Thode

I wrote up most of this as I was traveling but kept having problems with up loading the pictures so it got postponed. Now is months later and I am planning my next escape so have committed to getting this done. This trip was from Italy west to Ukraine, south to Greece, out to Malta and back up North Italy to Miriam’s.
Bike was stored at Miriam’s in Brescia Italy. It is so wonderful to have friends that will allow me to store the bike around the world. I think she is going to go for a long ride again soon, maybe around the world. I will say I’ve encouraged it, sent her a Horizons Unlimited calendar so she could look at the pictures and dream a bit.  First crossed paths with Miriam in Porta Lindo Panama in 2010 when she was out on a two year tour of the Americas.  I am not a good writer so it is hard to convey how wonderful it is to have friend around the world that will take you in and make sure your adventures continue.

25th September
 I went up in the Dolomiti Mtn yesterday some good roads ending up north of Mezzano. Tourist area so prices were high, but found a place with tiny room, tried to turn on the TV to find a weather report, it did not work, tried to connect to WiFi, it did not work, took a shower (it worked with minor repair) but the hair dryer made noise and started smoking then quit, Then the main light in room burnt out. No heat in room and I woke up a midnight, finally got out my sleeping bag and got back to sleep sometime after 3. All this cost me 60 Euro. Was not a bad place it was just jinxed for me, maybe I took all the errors so everyone else could sleep through.
Still working on the time change so sleep wants to come at the wrong time of the day.
  Then there was today, amazing roads all day, up and down the mountains wandering toward Tolmezza. Then set GPS to Sofja Loka Slovenia with way points at Cividale and Tolmin. Was one of those rides in contention for my top five in the world. The back road over into Slovenia was winding switchbacks up one side and then a 10 degree roller coaster down the other side for about 10 K. (10 degrees is a 22.2% slope by our way of measuring, White Pass is 6% and White Bird and Lewiston grades are 7% for comparison) Then about 5:00 I came pass a Bar Café that had a sign "Apartment free wifi".  I found the perfect spot to unwind and enjoy the peace. A picture perfect place in a very small village, more a cabin than apartment. I have kitchen/ living room, two bedrooms with two single beds in each, a wood stove (he built the fire) or could use the air conditioner for heat, even has a washing machine. The TV works and some in English, the WiFi works. Asked if there was a place I could buy a couple of eggs for breakfast and he gave me five with a half loaf of bread.  Went in to Bar and had my one beer. Total bill 22 euros, I gave him 25. Wanted to pass this on before I forgot the details so if you or any of your friends head this way you could follow my track to this wonderful place.
Dolenja Trebusa 12
5283 Slap ob Idrijci                                
Tel: (05) 380-50-45
N 46 degrees 5' 41.5"    E 013degrees 50' 21.8"  (at the apartment, stop at bar café on main road before crossing bridge)

Sept. 26
Continued on to Sofja Loka, then to Croatia boarder. Then followed GPS to some place I picked in the center of Croatia. It took me on a “short cut”, one lane beat up road over the mountain, slow but still interesting. Down in the flats it reminds me of soviet type construction and the results of the revolution have not gone away yet.
Sept. 27
Set GPS for Bosnia Herz.... as I checked out of Croatia a young boarder officer told me there was a beautiful ride down a canyon, (he has a motorcycle), and where to find it. Before coming to Europe the only river canyon I knew of where the river was there before the mountains was the Yakima river from Ellensburg to Yakima. I found another one when I was in Morocco and the Mussel river in Germany now I have found another. On a flat plane the rivers will wind back and forth then if an uplift comes slow enough they will cut down in there same twisting pattern as the mountains are pushed up.  Ten million years ago Africa slammed into Europe and created the mountains here, Morocco, the Alps and the Peonies. So wonderful ride down the canyon from Banja Luka to Bugojno.

Sept. 28
The mountains in this part of Bosnia make for some great rides, from Bugojno I headed to Sarajevo. The first 50k was a wonderful, twisty road up over the mountains. Did get a little cold though, 6 degrees C.
Sarajevo is the capital of Bosnia H. and a large city. So when Miriam told me I should stay in Prenociste Vijecnica B&B I was not too hopefull of finding it. She did say it was within 100 meters of a library and near the river. To my amazement I found it, the library is also City Hall which is where my GPS took me. Did take a lap or two around and through the side streets to make it to where I could park my bike, which was about fifty yard from their door. It is a really nice place and good people. For those interested in finding it the coordinates are N43 degrees 51' 33.5" E 018 degrees 26' 03.4". It is an interesting city with lots of tourists in the old part of town. Bus loads of Japanese and others.
Some signs of the war are still present and I think there is still some animosity to Serbia. There were many “war crimes” and some have been convicted. It is much more real when you walk by building and see the bullet marks in the walls that have not been repaired. Serbia backed the Serbian population, which was the smallest, with guns, tanks and personal. Now the government has three presidents that rotate and it seems to be working.  Here in Sarajevo there are mosques next to churches and all are getting along.

Sept. 30th Saturday and someone stole a day, my numbers don’t jive
Today was the perfect day, up early, breakfast, and walked around Sarajevo for awhile before heading out. No idea where I was heading, just south for awhile. The first 60 k were up a canyon then down the other side in another canyon. Stunning country with a postcard photo at every turn to Hum. Then 20k along a river on a one lane road that is being widened. To the boarder crossing into Montenegro. Met a group of Polish in 4x4s and three couples on motos from Czech Republic as we waited to process through boarder stops.  Met up and rode with the Czechs for awhile then split and met up again in the mountains. Great ride to Goransko for lunch and then back 2k to ride into the Dormitor mountains. Think one lane, oil mat road switch backing up a slope so steep five or six of the switchbacks were a turn into tunnel coming back out above where you just were. Tunnel after tunnel rough cut through the rock, one even “Y”ed inside the rock, (I went the wrong way and had to turn around). The tunnels had no lights and some were maybe 500 meters long. Was a long slow climb to the top which was almost 1900 meters. Then over and down the other side to a smooth new road that was one sweeper after another, just like it knew it had to unwind you after such a day.
I have often thought I should list the top five roads/rides I have found in the world. I have never put them down, but have them rolling around my mind. This trip I added three candidates. Will need to change my top five to top ten or twenty if this keeps up.
This area has the potential of becoming a Meca for motorcycle riders, some are already coming and as road improve and services come more will come. The road to the boarder crossing had many camps where you could rent a room and many raft tours. Up in the Dormitor National Park there are facilities in and more being built. Much of the investment I was told was coming from Russia as they think the country will become part of the EU and this is a way to get their money out of Russia and into the EU. Put this area on your bucket list near the top.
Tomorrow I back track 20 k and ride on through the National Park. Want to get to “Moto Bulgaria” camp before the rain comes Wednesday.

Oct. 1st Sunday
Had kind of a slow day getting to Kosovo. First boarder crossing I was headed to had been closed. I stopped for fuel about 20 km prior and attendant said I could not go that way. So around about and found another way in. The boarder is the top of a mountain range so up I go again. This time there was nice timber, Nobel Fir and maybe some Spruce higher up. This is the first timber I have seen of quality. (Being from the Pacific Northwest, USA it take a lot to impress me as far as timber goes.) Most timber that I have seen would not be hauled out to the woods except for chips at home.
The boarder was at 1794 meters and it got down to 6 degrees C. But by the time I wound down the steep switch backs to civilization it was up to 18 C. Kosovo is an interesting political entity, they claim to be an independent country but Serbia still claims it is part of Serbia and just and autonomous region. UN has been involved and so far there has been no major violence.
Found a nice new hotel tonight for 15 Euro. But it really is not complete yet with some wires hanging and the hot water radiators not installed. Don’t know if they plan on shutting down if it gets cold or if they will get them in before then. Does seem to be warmer on this side of the mountains.

Oct. 2nd Monday
A long and interesting day. Started out about 7:30 as my 15    Euro hotel room did not include breakfast. The plan was to travel North East to Serbia, that worked fine but they would not let me in because I had entered Kosovo and go a stamp that did not say Serbia. All part of the pissing contest where Kosovo claims to be an independent country and Serbia claims it is part of Serbia. Oh well they were very friendly about it and said I would need to enter Serbia from a different country so a 200 Km detour down to Macedonia and back up to city of Priot, Serbia. I had to buy insurance at Macedonia boarder for 50 Euro, it is good for 15 days so I expect to be able to use it for a couple of days on the swing back through. Maybe a new record in boarder crossing in one day, out of Kosovo, back into Kosovo, out of Kosovo, into Macedonia, out of Macedonia and into Serbia. Will cross into Bulgaria tomorrow. To the city of Montana, will be like I am home.
Serbia is not doing as well as most of the other Balkan counties from what I have seen. A lot of postponed maintenance on building and roads. But they are building a massive project of a free way up the canyon I rode, ,maybe 50 Km long. Kind of what it would take to build a four lane over White Pass in Washington. So maybe that is where all their money is going.  
When to ATM to get a little local money, (wanted an ice cream cone). Did not check the exchange rate and just took the lowest one, 200 RSD. Well it is 100 to 1 so I got two $ worth. But I did get the ice cream and an apple.
Interesting in the last 65 Km I took a back road up a valley through many small villages. The first 20 Km the road was crap, patch on patch and rough. Then new asphalt for the next 20 for a smooth fun ride, new asphalt is not always a good sign as I came to the construction before long and beat my self through that till I got back to a poor road the rest of the way into Priot.
Oct. 3rd and 4th
Traveled into Bulgaria near Priot then turned north. With Montana plates on my bike I thought I should go to Montana Bulgaria just because. Boarder offical asked me where I was going, and smiled and thought it fitting when I told him Montana, as he was looking at my plate. Roads were not good, you could play an amazing game of checkers on all the patches and I played a game of dodge ball, (aka dodge the pot hole), on a lot of it. But it did not last for ever and I found better roads up into the mountains, montana is Spanish for mountain and must have Latin root. Up 1600 meters. Montana was a big city but not too impressive with much of the construction looking like soviet era concrete slab. So after finding the post office to mail a post card from Montana to prove it exists, I set for the center of Bulgaria and Moto Stay Bulgaria. Interesting cultural difference here. As I left a city there was a very well dressed, nice looking girl standing alone beside the road. Then a little way farther another dressed like to go to a wild party then another. Never more than one and it took awhile for it to sink in but these are prostitutes displaying there wares for sale. Not sure if they take the johns somewhere or they just hope in the car or truck, did not stop to ask.

Moto Stay Bulgaria is one of those places that travelers gather to rest, repair and get advice to travel on east. For me it means a rest stop, service the bike and do laundry.

Oct. 5th Thursday                
Checked out moto, still trying to find what is making a ticking every second or so when moving. Checked breaks as it only does it when moving but still finding nothing. So I pulled out of Moto Bulgaria about 10 and headed north to Romania. Where I planned to cross had a ferry across a large river. I got there just in time to see the ferry pull out. I checked and it would be another four hours before it left again. So fuddled around checking bike some more and sorting stuff. Finally on the ferry with five simi and it was a load.
Once across and through customs it was about five, but I wanted to put a few miles on so headed north on a back country route. Surly somewhere along the way I could find a spot to stay. Not to happen, had to ride till seven to get to larger city. Two star hotel cost 20 Euro.
It was a interesting ride though, many small villages that seemed have been missed by the movement of time. Outside of the villages there were big farms and lots of flat land that had been planted to grain or corn. In the villages it was small subsistence farms with horse and wagon. On the big farms it was new tractors and combines.

 October 6th Friday
Rode north into Transylvania to Dracula’s Castle. It is a real tourist hot spot but still worth the hike up the hill to go through the castle. From there down into the more flat ground and lots of large farms and lots more small subsistence farms.

October 7th Saturday
Rode east through more farm land. Picked a spot in Moldavia to head to but did not plan on riding all the way as it was 476 km. It was also starting to rain and cold, 6 degrees C.
Had a good breakfast at SubWay. But they did not have any banana peppers. The young man working there spoke good English which is getting rare.  Also big coffee and as it was warm I sat there for 40 minutes or so.
Moved on toward Roman on good roads so I got to Lasi about 2:30, the rain had stopped so I continued on to the Romania - Moldavia boarder. It took over an hour to clear the boarder due to backup and in Moldavia they could not verify my motorcycle title and registration. For those planning such a trip they are looking for something like the Brits have, a 4x6 card they call their registration. This is equivalent to our title and our registration is just documenting we licenced it. This confused me greatly when I went to Morocco and they wanted registration number which translates here to your plate number. First boarder guard turned me over to a young girl who could not find on the computer system USA documents. You see they can lookup any country and get a picture of what the documents are to look like and how to verify them. I think she was trying to look under America instead of USA. She then got backup who kept insisting that I should have another document, she wanted something like the Brits have. Finally they sent out a guy who spoke good English and I explained that the “registration” they wanted was the “Montana title” and the second sheet only showed it was licensed.  
I had expected to find a place to stay before the boarder crossing but did not. Normally there will be at least one hotel near boarder crossings, but not here. So I am now getting tired but had to go another 76 Km to city I had punched into GPS. Average road speed was about 50 kph as some was dirt and gravel then beat to shit pavement with a few breaks of good new road and gravel  construction. Get there and the only hotel I find is full, It is another 55Km and it is starting to rain again. Road was more of crap, good and construction all the way in to Chisinau. Chisinau is the capital city of Moldova and there is a celebration going on here so four hotels I found were full the fifth was full but as the nice girl working the desk was checking to see if she could find me a room somewhere, anywhere would be fine, she got a call canceling and opened up a room. Spendy but I was totally beat, 8:30 and I had been on the road since 7:30 in the morning riding over 500 Km.
The celebration they are having is just up the street a couple of blocks so I went up to check it out. Biggest wine tasting party I have seen and wonderful food. Will go up in the morning and try to understand it all. Now I am beat. The wine party had 22 wine venders, you bought a glass for 10E and could drink all night, and some did.

October 7th Sunday
Moved out of my luxury room, it was nice but expensive. Decided to use Booking.com so I did not find myself wondering around looking for a place to sleep in the rainy dark. Booked Vila Roz a B&B in the little village of Trebujeni. The GPS did not find that so I picked a larger town north of it. GPS then took me to the disputed border between Moldova and Ukraine. Did not want to deal with that so I back tracked some and went the way google told me. Raining heavy most of the way to where I made a wrong turn and end up in the wrong village. The directions of cross the bridge and go 300 meters fit though. But the road was dirt and had water running down it. Found someone to ask directions, more point to my notes and gesture, and he sent me back to where I made the wrong turn. Now my GPS could find the right village but wanted me to go 43 Km to get there. Apparently it did not know there was a bridge over the river so I found it this, time.
Recommend Vila Roz, was a wonderful place and she made me way too much for dinner. Real Moldova food. Most of what I did here was rest from a long day yesterday and tried twice to go for a walk but got rained out. There are caves in the rock hillsides, fossils and a monastery that I will check out in the morning. The rain is going to stop they say. Will try to remember to get coordinates for Vila Roz in the morning. Their web site is www.vilaroz.com . N47 degrees 18' 35.7" E 028 degrees 59' 07.1"
Moldova has a long way to go in rasing up standard of living to the rest of Europe. My gage of how a former eastern block country is doing is “how many Ladas do I find”. These are the Russian built cars and generally poor quality. So 26 years after the fall of USSR and they still have Ladas on the road things are not too good. Seen a few in Bulgaria, only one or two in Romania and lots in Moldova. They still build the Lada but I did not see any newer ones till I got to Ukraine. When I was in the Baltic counties in 1992 all they had were Ladas.
Ukraine had maintained close ties with Russia until the problems in 2014 where the newly elected president, (actuations of fraud), stated he was going to stop the European Union process and become more allied with Russia. The people protested and got him out of office, replaced with pro western president. Russia then annexed a part of Ukraine. The had been part of Russia but was transferred to Ukraine when they controlled Ukraine. All made sense but they had to shot a few people first.

October 9th, Monday
Entered Odessa Ukraine into the GPS and headed out, after a very good and big breakfast at Villa Roz. I expected it to take me back the way I went yesterday but no it had a better idea. Short cut through the Maldivan countryside. The road soon turned to gravel, sort of. Their gravel is a limestone that grinds down to powder then after the rain yesterday was like slippery mud. But never say quit, just was slow for about 20 Km. It did cut off a lot of distance but I am not sure it saved any time or stress. Put me back to the border crossing I was at yesterday and turned around.
The “disputed territory” and crossing was very confusing. I checked out of Moldova and what I figured out eventually, checked into no mans land. Because when after 50 Km turned and crossed into Ukraine I had to check out again and then into Ukraine.  I am not sure who physically controls the disputed territory but their uniforms were not the same as Moldova or Ukraine. Most of the cars had Moldova plates. Was some very beautiful country with large farms.
Now at Happy Cat hotel in Odessa, price was right, very nice room and good safe parking (I hope). But you have to go down an alley to get here, just seems a strange way to do it.

Walnut trees have lined roads in several of the countries here, even some Chestnut trees. Seems a great idea as it beatifies the road and provides food for anyone who wants to stop and pick some up.

October 10th Tuesday
Pulled out of the hotel and into morning rush hour traffic of Odessa. Plan was to head down the the lower southern portion of Ukraine. Well when they drew the lines they did a poor job of it as the only road had a 12 Km section that loops into Moldova. From the map it looks like they could build a new road but this one runs right along the tidal zone making that very hard to do. So Ukraine boarder crossing again, explain the Montana does not have a registration “card” and the paper I have is a title and the other is registration. There is nothing on this road except about half way you can turn north into Moldova and their customs. Got to the other end and was told that they could not let me in and I had to go to Moldova. What I think it was is that I should have stopped at Moldova customs and got a paper stamped but their English is as good as my Russian. So back to The Moldovan customs and I said I just would go up through Moldova. But then I needed fuel and the local gas station would only take Moldova Lea, so at “T” I went the 3 km back to another boarder crossing into Ukraine as there was fuel on the other side. But the rules were against me and they said I could not go that way because of a stamp in my passport. But that there was fuel 15 Km north. Made the 15 Km with a drop or two to spare. Then it was north about 130 Km where I could then cross into Romana.
Coming back Romana looked real good. It is all a matter of prospective and coming in from the east you notice the roads are better and everything seems to be in better order. Got a room in an old hotel in a nice little town. Will make it to Moto Bulgaria tomorrow.

Oct. 11th Wednesday
Well I love the GPS and what it will do for me, but, if you put in the wrong coordinates your not going to make it where you thought. Took about two hours before it dawned on me that this was not the right route. Oh well I got a better look at Romania and a nice ride in the mountains. Did not make it to Moto Camp but found a nice place for less than 20 Euros.

Oct. 12th Thursday
Made it to Moto Camp Bulgaria and started working on an electrical problem on the moto. Yesterday the display indicated I had a light out and sure enough my high beam was not working. This was disappointing as I had just installed diode lights because I was tired of having to change the head light H7s. So I had pulled the bulb and everything seemed plugged in well so I tested it and it worked. So scratch my head and put it back in. Then today display indicated light was out again, but on checking this time it was tail, stop light. Both the main light and the ones I mounted on the licence plate would not work.  Resulted in no signal to cruse control when I put on the brakes, (cruse control sences voltage in brake wire and shuts off cruse), so it seemed there was no power getting to the lights or something was shutting system down.
Getting to the tail light wiring is not an easy task, off with the boxes, seat, box frames then you can take the cover off to get to the wiring. I had spliced in the wires here so I took it apart and all looked good. But no power, then I got power once, then gone, the sometimes problems are the worst. Finally disconnected the lights I had added, still no go. Gave up and put everything back together.
Headed into town to get some food to cook for dinner. Then as I was coming back it was getting dark so I had flashers on all the way. Pulled into Moto Camp and the tail/brake light was working. Ahhhh Eat dinner go to bed.

Oct. 13th Friday
Head to Sofia and BMW dealer to figure this out. The tail/break light worked till I started up again after getting fuel then went out.  About 50 Km later I get the idea to shut it off and start up again, it worked the lights came on, then about 25 km they went out again. Stopped and tried starting several times but no go.  
Found the BMW dealer and they check a few things, hooked it up to computer, no help. They said they could work on it in about three hours. So I headed out to get a room for the night, unloaded stuff and went back in 2.5 hours. They had me pull it in and we pulled it down to the wiring again. He took the wrap of my wiring and was sure he had found the problem, connections were soldered. Seems BMWs don’t like solder or so his story went. Re-wired those connections and it worked. They also adjusted the chain, oiled it up well and installed new break shoes on the rear, (used my spare set as they did not have any in stock). All done and I asked them who I was to pay. He said “no charge” about dropped my teeth, they had spent one and half hour on it.
I am not sure it is fixed but at that price I can’t complain.
Less than a block from the BMW dealer was a Holiday Inn which I checked into in case I needed to leave the moto at the shop. It is real nice but cost me about $85. Breakfast is extra, I will go to subway which is close.  What really rubs me is they charge for internet. Why is it the only Hotels that charge for internet are the expensive ones? Subway has free WiFi so I went there to check in.
Tomorrow I cross to Macedonia.

October 14th Saturday
Today was a slow dance through the mountains of Macedonia.
I left Sofia about 9 headed to the boarder which is at the top of a mountain range. So a nice ride up into the mountains. The crossing itself was backed up and took an hour to get through. The Bulgaria side was the hold up. You would think that someone leaving the country would be easy.
For those considering riding USA registered bikes through these countries a word of advice. The document needed are your title and current registration. These need to be originals, they will not take copies. Customs will sometimes ask for “passport for motorcycle” and what they expect you to provide is a registration card. This is what is used to document ownership in Europe. Your title and registration is what you need but don’t expect them to know what they are. They can, and I have had them do it three times, go on line to the state your vehicle is registered in and see what documents you should have and what they look like. So do not try to bluff you way through, carry the right papers and expect it to take a little longer than the Europeans.
Bulgaria had some very nice roads from Sofia heading to the boarder. Even the back road up to the crossing was nice. The other side was a little rougher.
It has been difficult to communicate many places to the east that I have been. Macedonia seems to have more people that can speak English. I stopped in a town not far inside the boarder to withdraw some local currency from the ATM and three young boys, (maybe 10 years old), came up and started asking questions about the bike and my trip, in English. They were quite good at it too.
Macedonia, at least where I have been riding, is very rugged with the road winding down the canyons. There was a resivore that was empty on the upper reaches, that was at least 15 Km long. This had to hold a large amount of water. Water is used for irrigation in the flat land I finally got to.  Most of the farms are small plots. I did see a fewer newer tractors but they all were 45 to 70 hp size. But the horses that were everywhere in Bulgaria, Romania and Ukranie I have not seen.
Then I set the GPS for the mountains again and as I got close to the town I expected to stay in I checked lodging on the GPS. Another 35 Km and there was Hotel Montana. Having Montana plates on the bike I knew this was where I should go. It is a four star hotel for 33 Euro, with breakfast. And several speak English.
There is a wedding going on in part of the hotel, if I had a tie I might be able to crash it. Lots of people and got real loaded after awhile. My room is on the fourth floor so was no problem with noise, unless you went to lobby.
October 15th Sunday
Hotel Montana and the town of Krushevo are such a nice place I stayed put for a second night. Must have walked ten miles across and around town. Things are not booming here but there is an effort to promote tourism and recreational activities. Received by email some important papers that I needed to sign and send back so I got that sorted and located the post office so I can mail in the morning.  It is hard to figure out what this area could do to improve the economy, then again maybe they like it the way its. Laid back easy going place, you could hide here and just relax.
It is worth note that they were having a major election while I was here. They thought I was sent by the US government to make sure the vote went right, interesting when we look at the woopla about Russian medaling in our election.  The USA has medaled in so many elections around the world it is now just expected, but don’t let anyone medal in our election.
May have a new favorite saying, from a bar in Krushevo:
Life is not about waiting for the storm to pass, it’s about learning to dance in the rain
October 16th, Monday
Left Hotel Montana and Krushevo reluctantly, just a neat place to be with great people. I stopped at their post office and mailed some legal papers before leaving town. Heading toward Albania was a real nice ride in the mountains. Then up the steep ridge to the boarder. Was the smoothest crossing I have made for awhile. Then down the other side into Albania.
The difference crossing a boarder makes always amazes me, only a few miles and the houses change, the roads are better and; there are little motorcycles out and about. Wonderful riding in these mountains.

My tail light and brake light are out again. May have to push through to Grease to find a shop that can figure it all out.
Went through the capital Tirane. There is definitely lots of economic activity going on here, mass traffic all the way. The cars are not old clunkers but newer models. Then out side of the city, finally, I had 30 km to destination.
Imagine a road up a steep mountain with switchbacks all the way and at the top a castle. Then imagine a city built under the castle around the switch backs. Is absolutely insane and my room is right at the top at a B&B built next to, or on the castle grounds.
Had a good hike around the castle and all the venders trying to sell you something you don’t need or want. At dinner I met a couple from Croatia, Everywhere I go I find good people.  

October 17th, Tuesday
Up today and toured the Museum, the entire Balkans have spent most of the last 2000 years dominated by some outside power. Roman, Ottoman or Russian.  To finally have control of their own destiny has been a boost to their optomisum.  
I left my mountain top abode and headed back down to the urban jungle. Albania is doing good the activity in the city is just humming. I set out to Vlore which took me through several cities.
As I was passing through one city I spotted a sign, Berber and a parking spot in front. Berber is Barber and I needed a cut as I was getting quite rough. It is always a gamble getting a cut from someone who can not speak your language. He did a right good job of it with a little local style thrown in.
With my hair cut I decided  Spook, (aka the motorcycle), needed a bath. Two things that Albania has in abundance are hotels and car washes. So I stopped for a bite at a restaurant across from a car wash and got a bite while the bike cooled. Then over to the wash, cost 200 local currency, (135 to 1Euro). Now we are both back to civilized.
Once I got close to Vlore I turned off to Tepelone and then Permet, a recommended route for motos. Most was on new or very good pavement. Had thought that I would stop at Tepelone but the weather was warm and the roads good so I pushed on to Permet. Found a wonderful hotel for 20 Euro on the town center. Great town center, well kept and busy with many out walking in the warm evening air.
We get a lot of hipe from the media that the world hates Americans. That is absolutely bull. Everywhere I have been when they asked where I was from they were delighted that an American had come to visit them. They all seem to love America and what we stand for.
Tomorrow I will try to find a mountain loop that is suppose to be a great motorcycle route. Then I head into Greece to find someone who can fix this tail light.

October 18th Wednesday
Pulled out of Permet and found loop road up into the national forest. Went a few km but then decided I did not have the time to do it all. This is only m/l 70 km loop but you should plan on a day as the road is challenging, reminded me of Sani Pass, (South Africa). At least the part I rode. I just need to get this light fixed and a place with stable WiFi so I can bid on auction the 20th.
So back on the main road. This road was narrow but in good to great shape coming into Permet but dropped a few grades as I headed the other way. Was 150 km to Korce but took me five and half hours. Did stop for a brake and lots of pictures but still a slow ride. Most in 3rd or under. Climbed 1000 meters as it twisted around the mountains. Once at the 1000 to 1200 meter level it seemed to stay between those numbers but still a lot of up and down the mountains.
At one point there was a small hydro-electric plant that had diverted the creek into a flume then dropped to the power plant. Not a lot of production but showed ingenuity.  
Korce is a fairly large city and it took 30 min. to beat my way through. Then along a two lane road to road construction, see pictures. To a beautiful new road. There seems to be no in-between, brutal narrow road to big wide and smooth.
Crossing to Greece was fairly quick even with a lineup. Then to a four lane freeway. So I traveled everything today from goat path to freeway.

October 19th Thursday
Up to a good breakfast and two and half hour ride to Thessaloniki and BMW dealer. They are a little unsure about the light also but we ordered a new one that will be in Monday morning. Found my hotel on top of the hill finally, not the best but a good rate for the city. Tried to find a laundry mat but it was not where I looked, so did a few things in the bath tub. Got some recommendations of rides for tomorrow when I was at the shop, we will see what we find.

October 20th Friday
Kind of a lazy morning but I finally made it out for a ride to the sea. The recommendation I had for a day ride was around two peninsulas each about 45km long and narrow. The first was narrow enough you could see both sides from the road on top as I started the lap around. Kassandra was the name on my map for this one. It is mostly summer homes, rentals, hotels, resorts and café / bars. Some very scenic spots along the way when you could see out over the Mediterranean Sea. Stopped and has fish for lunch, not sure what kind but it had some wicked looking teeth for its size.
The second peninsula, Sithonia, was much less developed and made me think of South Island, New Zealand. The road twisted and turned both left and right as well as up and down. Had been taking it slow stopping here and there till I realized that I needed to push it to get back to the hotel to sign in to a Richie Bros. Auction that I wanted to bid on some stuff. Put these two peninsulas on your route if you come this way.
In the few years that I have been traveling things have changed so much with internet and phones. My phone works here and have had a few shocked friends that called when I told them where I was. Have found internet everywhere. Most café of restaurants and many of the fuel stations will have WiFi. The world has gotten smaller.  The only place that wanted paid for internet was Holliday Inn (5star) in Sofia, Bulgaria. Stayed there one night as it was close to BMW shop where I was trying to get light fixed. Refused to pay for it, just walked across the street to Sub Way.

October 21, Saturday
Waiting for Monday and my new light so what to do, where to ride. Wanted to get out of city for at least one night so I picked a city for the GPS and headed out. When I got there I could see on the GPS there was a lake out away. So I just pushed my finger on the road close to the map set it for destination. I was headed for the hills and saw a sign indicating archaeological site down side road so I took it for away but never found the site but was a nice ride through orchards, (mostly apples). Was going to stop at what looked like a nice place but was early so decided ride out a bit farther and come back. Then I found the road up the mountain, steep switchbacks and as sign indicating a ski area. Came to a “T” and decided on left. Was not a well maintained road, smooth but vegetation was working its way out into the road. So I did not expect to find much, maybe a small village or two.
What I found was Edessa, a ski resort town that is just amazing. I was shocked to find this place. Still early season and things are slow. They do get some tourist traffic and some of the shops have not opened for the season yet. Wandered through the town to Patrick’s Inn. Stopped for coffee and asked how much a room would be. She went off to check and came back saying 30 Euros. The room is wonderful and I think the 30 Eu was less than half normal in season rate. Will post some pictures of this place and GPS coordinates are N 40degrees,50' 22.576" E 21 degrees 46' 10.325" in case someone else wants to find it. This is truly the nicest place I have stayed on this trip. (Now I am going to take a shower as room has one of those new fangled showers that is programable and shoot water out every which way.)

October 22, Sunday
Had a wonderful breakfast at Patrick’s Inn and after stalling for awhile I packed up and got on the road. The ski area was 16 km away so I decided to go up for a look see.  And up it was from 1200 M to 2044 at parking lot. Then I climbed up the mountain to great views and forgot my camera. But I am sure it worked off the big breakfast and was at least another 200 meters in elevation.  
The road just kept going past the ski area so what else could I do but see where it went. Road was mostly paved but had some pot holes and a few spots that had slid and were just rocked in. So back and forth down the mountain switchbacks I went. Every now and then through a small village. Stopped to let the sheep cross once and there were several spots that wood cutters had stacked wood by the road side. They cut the wood in m/l meter lengths which are delivered to customers who then cut those in thirds and split. There was some pine growing but not much, seems there should be some kind of tree that could be grown on this land that would have a market greater than fire wood.
When I finally got down away I set the GPS to go back to Thessaloniki and when zoomed out I could see I had made a big loop up and down the mountain and at about 80 out of Thessaloniki got back on the road I came in on.
Close to there I saw five bikes off to the side and stopped to check out the local bikers. Well they were not local but from Macedonia and headed into Thessaloniki. So I tagged along, following them into the city and down to the port area. This was packed with people, both tourists and locals packing the bars and cafes. I did buy some roasted chestnuts for something to eat as we walked around.  Even went into a Starbucks and got some good coffee. About 18:00 I headed back to the Hotel I had stayed in before.
Tomorrow I hope to solve the tail light issue. But now have a new concern, my chain is wearing fast and I need to replace it and sprockets very soon. Had planned on doing this when I got back to Bracia Italy but no way they will last that long.

October 23, Monday
Got the bike to the shop, (light stayed on all the way).  But the chain is really bad. I had set slack last night but when I got there it was tight. Seems the chains do not wear even so you need to check slack at different points. Talked with the tech for awhile and decided to order the sprockets and chain. Also needed new seals and spacers on rear tire.  The fork bearings had worn in so I wanted them replaced before I headed to China so added that to the list. Tech also noted that there was a drag from bent guard when I had the crash in Morocco and was able to fix that. I had never had the right tools to be able to bend it back where it was suppose to be.
Was a good day not to ride as it rained most of the day and night.
Shop loaned me a 650 CS which I rode to a hotel for the night. Was down by the water and I walked down and looked at the yachts. Had a good dinner in a rather wild place.

October 24th, Tuesday
Got to the shop about 9 and parts had not shown up yet. But 20 minutes later they were there. All was done about 11:00, paid the bill, loaded up and was on my way. I decided I needed to at least give Athens a quick run so I hit the toll road for 500 km and down into Athens. Stopped 10 times to pay toll that averaged 2 Euro each time. Found a hotel down town, but not in tourist section, for 40 E with breakfast.
October 25, 26, 27 Long days of checking out Greek ruins, then getting to a ferry to Italy, crossed Italy to another ferry to Sicily. Getting there late at night and finally found a place to stay for the night. Up the next day and headed to make a ferry to Malta. So three ferries in three days.

October 28th, Saturday
Made it into Malta and to Guest House by 10 PM last night. Today I rode around Malta, traffic is horrendous, plus they drive on the left side. It is good to find people that speak English.  Island is very small for over 400k people. Some farm ground but not near enough to feed the population.
Went to look at old pre-historic temples then to Rabat, walled city that reminded me of Fez in Morocco.
Malta is only about 15 miles by 10 miles if it were squared out but has been an important site in the Mediterranean Sea for thousands of years. And for most of that they have been controlled from some outside force. The Greeks, Romans, Arabs, Spanish, French and last the English. So now they are in a rare place as an independent nation. Each of these powers built fortifications on the island so there are lots of old things to look at. The architecture of the buildings show a bit of French influence and maybe their own. Through the years they have used limestone blocks to build with. The old forts are deteriorating as the limestone is not real stable.
            
29th October
Walked all day, must have been miles but with parking a problem it was easier to just walk. The capital of Malta is Valletta and at 0.8 square kilometers it is the smallest national capital. All within a massive defensive wall point. Each power to control it tried to build a defense system so they could keep it.
Spent the day walking around the old city taking pictures.
Tomorrow I will not be able to get on the early ferry so will have to wait till 16:30 ferry.

October 30th
Ferry back to Sicily

October 31st Tuesday
Back on the island of Sicily I wanted to have a look at more than I saw from the freeway getting to ferry to Malta. The north side of Sicily is 150 km from the south side where I was at. I set a course to take me into the inferior and up in the mountains. When I reached the south side I had traveled 312 km to cross. That should give you a clue as to the straightness, or lack there of, of the roads. My route was Leonforte, Bronte, Patti. Was a beautiful ride through scenic country that looked like it had been forgotten in time. The towns had their castle on the hill and rock blocks for pavement.  The narrow streets were amazing that they could still function. In one town I was lost and the street had a sign posted indicting maximum width of 1.8 Meters, (71 inches). So you had better know your vehicle width or be real stuck.
 I reached an elevation of 1265 and a corresponding drop in temperature to 7C.  Risky riding this time of year as it can snow up here, but so far I have had great weather. Even the 7C was not bad as it did not last as I came down the other side.  The drop to the south side was steep switchbacks. At one point I dropped over 300 M in two Kilometers, that is a 15% grade. Have been down steeper but they were not as long.
Once back to the sea I hit the freeway and headed to the port.  The ferry was very busy and I had to wait for a second ferry as the line did not make it to me for the first. 13 Euros for the ferry and I was back to mainland. I ended up getting on the freeway when I wanted to cross it to a hotel. I think it took 20 km to get me turned around and back to where I wanted to be.

November 1st Wednesday
I was up and out early, breakfast did not take long as their definition of “good breakfast” and mine are not the same. But I had had a big dinner so off I went. I wanted to make it to Pompeii and worried about running out of time, so I hit the freeway. Was a good choice as there was no toll on this one.  Was a stunning ride through fall colors and fascinating construction of this road. The first part had more time in tunnels than in the open.  The road would come out of a tunnel, cross a bridge and back in another tunnel.  There were not many strait stretches and wound up in the mountains and back down, making it to Pompeii by 13:00.  
Pompeii is a must see if you are ever in Italy. Covered in volcanic ash in 79 AD it has been well preserved. Even had some loaves of bread that were black but you could see the cross cut in the top of 6 to 8 inch loaves.  More in pictures below.
I decided to go to a fancy Italian restraunt. Was disappointed the Italian cuisine is not what its been worked up to be. Even the pizza would not hold a candle to the pizza we have in the USA.  So far in my travels I think Morocco has the best overall food. From the quick stuff on the street to the fancy Moroccans, do it right.

November 2nd Thursday
Rode the mountains west of Rome. I am continually amazed at where they have built the towns and cities and most with a castle.  There was a time when your door was your only security and people banded together. Found a defendable location and built a town.  The Swiss Alps were a fine ride but Italy is better. It is more real not the built for tourist-Switzerland.  The road may not be as smooth but that just keeps you slowed down to better enjoy the views and ride.

                                            
November 3rd Friday
With a drizzle coming down and my heated coat having a broken wire I opted for the toll road to San Marino. The toll roads are engineering marvels as they cut through the mountains. One tunnel was 11km.
San Marino is a small country, 66 sq, km and a population of 33,200. Makes most of its income from banking and tourist traffic. I am staying at the Art and Cult Hotel where I stayed two years ago when I visited. The owner had me move my bike into his garage. He has two old sports cars, (one a MGM and the other I did not catch) both from the 20s or 30s. Also three motorcycles, one a Harley Sportster, (80s)He also said he had a ‘48 Indian Chief but it was not here. There is a ‘53 Matchless in the lobby. So if you are riding this way this is the place to come, good people and they like motorcycles.
N 43degrees, 55', 8.87" E 012 degrees, 27',9.60" into GPS to find this spot.  

November 4th, Saturday
Climbed to the castle and got my exercise for the day as I needed to wait till about 9 to leave so I could get to the Italian motorcycle Museum that was close and opened at 10. I had gotten the GPS co-ordinates for the Museum online and when packed I headed out. It took me on a wonderful ride through the country side past alfalfa fields, vineyards, olive orchard and a lot of land that has been worked up for next season. But it did not take me to the museum.
  So after wondering around that area looking for it I stopped and got out the i-phone and did a search, found the address and in-put it to GPS. Off again through more narrow roads and small farms. Finally ending at the museum. Most of the motorcycles were Italian built with a few British. The owner showed me around and gave me some history on the bikes. I will post pictures below but one I wish was out to where I could get a good picture. It was a Moto Gutsiy, trike with tracks on the rear and drive to the front wheel. Built in the early ‘60s for the military.

November 5th, Sunday
Sorted the bike for storage and to take home what I don’t need for my next adventure, (to China). Always seems I end up with too much stuff. Cutting down on camp gear to what I will need rarely, as I expect accommodations to be available and at a good rate as I travel east.  Still considering bringing back the peg packers so I can take those two boxes out of panniers.
Miriam’s mom invited us over for Sunday dinner and I got to have real Italian food, her Mom fed me way too much. Miriam and her brother’s girlfriend are the only two that spoke English so conversation took awhile.  
After dinner Miriam took me to home improvement store as I needed to replace my soldering iron. Always interesting to see how and what they use to build in other countries. Then back to the apartment to rest off the large dinner. Then Miriam asked if I had got Martha a present, which I had not, looked several times but not found the right thing that would fit on bike.
So off we go to Outlet maul. Found a scarf and some sugar free chocolate for Martha and then a backpack that will roll up small for me. Then a travel shirt for me. And last she took me to a shop in the maul that has motorcycle gear. They are one of here sponsors for her travels. On my list to bring next time was long johns and they had a set at a good price so bought those too.

Next Morning I was off on the train to Rome and the flight home. Has been a wonderful adventure. Now the planning begins for the next escape, Turkey, the Stans, maybe Mongolia, China, Laos, Thailand..........................................................................