We travelled over 5000 km in eleven days, and this morning we crossed the border between Iran and Turkmenistan along a beautiful road at 1800m of altitude, almost never meeting a car. 185km of curves, climbs and descents in a wonderful landscape.

We arrived at 9.30am to customs, prepared to face up to five hours of formality.

The Iranians, always friendly and welcoming, have closed all formalities within half an hour.

The Turkmen have a few more steps ... First check of passport with payment fee, passage to the office to pay import motorcycle insurance and tax on selected route (under pain to pay a fine of $ 1,000 if we change itinerary), passing the vet office and pay $ 5 for the stamp (I did not understand why I have to go to the vet, but I obey), transition to the "bank", a closet around the corner of the veterinarian, to pay expenses of the bike, and then step into the office "Registering motion "and ending with the" Customs "office for final inspection of the passport and luggage.

We will have spent around three hours. Luckily we were the only tourists....

We arrive in Ashgabat after 35 minutes farther down the mountain. It unfolds before us a monumental city, with modern-kitsch all strictly white tower blocks. Huge and desert eight-lane boulevards, 43-degree temperature...

We stop at the Italian Embassy, ​​where Ambassador Marco Mancini, the Consul Gian Carlo Culazzo and the Embassy Staff, which gave us a good hand to get the visa Turkmenistan, greet us warmly for a pleasant chat and a coffee.

We book the hotel and we can finally have a good refreshing shower.

Tomorrow, after visiting the city, we will be taking to the north, to see the Door to Hell, in the desert.