Day 8.

We are in Russia!

But let me just go back to Olysztn for a moment. As Richard has mentioned, my clutch cable snapped at 5.00 p.m. rush hour in the middle of a three lane highway in Olysztn. We wheeled the bike to the side of the road to a cacophany of angry horns. Richard had a cable repair kit and I had the tools. All we needed now was someone with some know-how!

We decided to split our talents, and Richard rode on to the hotel and sorted out our accommodation for the night, while I looked at the bike and scratched my head. Using my new philosophy of taking it slow and patient even if I've no idea what I'm doing and panic is just below the surface, I started undoing nuts and bolts all over the place. Once I had a nice little pile, I looked in the cable repair kit and found something that looked similar to something else that I'd taken off.

To a cut a long story short - and to save the embarrasment of having anyone technical reading (laughing at) this - I managed to fix the cable, but probably only temporarily. The next morning we went to the local Honda dealer. They were very friendly and helpful - and with very limited English - but they didn't have a replacement clutch cable, and couldn't get one for two days.

Meanwhille, Richard (concerned as ever) had gone off for a stroll round the showroom. When returning, he casually mentioned that they had a brand new Honda Transalp in the showroom, identical to ours, except that it was in gold. I decided that this was the time to test the dealer staff's friendliness to the limit, and mildly suggested that there was always the option of stripping the clutch cable from their brand new shiny bike and sticking it on mine.

Of course they all said no, absolutely no way. Half an our later it was fitted, and we were on the road to Vilnius in Lithuania, by 11.30. That is the best Honda dealer I have been to. Thank you.

As Richard touched on earlier, riding into Vilnius was like riding into Dante's vision of Hell. Riding up to our hostel, was liking approaching one of Hell's less pleasant cells. However, once we were settled in, and strolled into the town square, Vilnius was a cosmopolitan, bustling cafe culture town.

Following our rest day, we rode from Vilnius in Lithuania to Latvia. Latvia is like Lithuania, only a bit more surly. We crossed the border in light rain, and arrived at Dogpile, our lunchtime destination as the rain got heavier. We dined in a cross between a Wimpy and a salad bar. From the atmosphere in the place, I think the owner must have recently committed suicide behind the counter, and also shot all the town's school children before he went. Melancholy was the mood. Even the kids had had the joy sucked out of them.

We swiftly moved on to Retching, our evening stop-over. This town had once aspired to the lofty title of 'one horse', but had obviously given up. We negotiated our way through the tumble weed to one of the town's three hotels. Three hotels in a town with a population of five (including us) seemed extravagant.

We decided to go for a walk and really explore the place. Three and a half minutes later we needed something else to do and found a snooker hall!

That night Rich went clubbing, while I went to bed. Adventuring isn't all it's cracked up to be you know. I'll now hand over to Rich.