Day 4-7 from Northern Zimbabwe through Mocambique into Malawi, along Lake Malawi and into Tanzania - long days on surprisingly good roads.Day four of the trip was a two-border-day: Into Mocambique, without queues, no problem at all. German passport holders require visa, which should be obtained at the Mocambiquan embassy/consulate (R600 at Rosebank consulate general). Carnet required.

Breakfast-stop at Tete, which has two impressive bridges across the might Zambezi river. The old bridge in the city centre is open for cars, motorbikes and pedestrians, traffic is hectic during the day, but no problem.

Based on the kind introduction through Cytech I met James for breakfast, a South Africa living a semi-retired life in Mozambique, and who provided me with a wealth of knowledge about roads in Kenya and especially Ethiopia. Cannot wait to get there, the scenery must be from out of this world!

Further through Mocambique was smooth riding, with regular pothole-alarm, lots of street-vendors, small motorbikes and pedestrians along the road.

Then into Malawi at Dedza border since I did not want to go to Blantyre/Zomba, however I read and heard this must be a beautiful area, but I better come again outside the current flooding season...

After filling up at Dedza I took a small road down towards Lake Malawi with breathtaking views - and breathtaking hairpin corners! A bikers dream! Will upload a video from this road soon!

At Lake level it was a bit of a race against the sun, as sunset was approaching fast and I wanted to get to Nkothakotha Pottery, a recommendation from James. And it was well worth the effort, despite having to conquer the last 20km or so on tar and the 4km unpaved access road to the lodge in total darkness. A very nice room 20m from the water, good food and a friendly british owner who also owns a more upmarket lodge next door.

Riding in malawi: Smooth tarmac surface, few potholes, some single lane bridges and crazy truck drivers, but overall a really pleasant ride through many small villages.

After a late breakfast next morning I decided to make my way a bit further up the Lake, to Nkhata Bay, where I expected to finally meet some overlanders at >a href="http://www.mayokavillagebeachlodge.com/">Mayoka Village. And indeed there was a guy who walked to Lake Malawi from Cape Town, another one who was on his bicycle trip around the Indian Ocean, another cyclist on his way to South Africa (wanted to be there by New Years Eve..), and a much of Americans on vacation from their US Peace Corps duties in Zambia.

After a nice swim in the lake and some editing of videos, which I continued the next morning, I had a late start towards TZN, which resulted in another night in Malawi, just before the border in Karonga. I friendly local at the fuel station suggested the "Beachchamber", next to the Lake, built by a German (although obviously a long way back) and just good for a good nights sleep before leaving early for TZN. No complaints for about 10$ including breakfast - and nature provided a proper shower for the bike with a lovely thunderstorm at night!

No floodings on the road next morning, but still lots and lots of people moving on the road, mostly pedestrians but also lots of bicycles.

Across the border in Kasumulu, between two large busses with trailers, their content piled up in front of the Malawi customs office, and lots of trucks. I was called to the front of the queue, carnet stamped in no time, and off to the TZN side, where I got a multiple entry visa for four weeks, US$50, no problem. Again carnet stamped, and then some haggling with the money changers. They tried their tricks on me, but ended up paying more than the official rate - learning: Stay on the bike, keep your money and wits under control, and when they start playing their games just leave.

The hills from the border to Mbeya were an amazing ride: Lots to see (tea and banana plantations, little village, lovely rolling hills, villages, trading posts, truck, busses, donkey-carts, motorbike-taxis, etcetc!

From Mbeya to Iringa it started with the WORST stretch of tarred road so far, with ruts you could barely cross. But some 80km further on the road was brand new, all perfect and almost a bit boring, if not for the regular bus or truck overtaking without the slightest chance to get back in their lane. I found myself on the shoulder for at least half a dozen times, heart racing, but luckily the road is wide enough to allow for these madness maneuvers.

At halfway point in Makambako I stopped to get a local SIM-card, and two very friendly and talkative guys, working on a building site next to the main road, helped me by finding out where the official Vodacom store is, who managed to sort me out with a nano-Sim-card - not the usual size for the local phones, but after two hours I had a TZN phone number, unlimited data for a month, and two new friends!

First glimpse of Lake Malawi

Chilling in Nkhata Bay