Then and Now
While sitting out the altitude sickness in Potosi we mulled over what to do and where to go next.
Which was a bit daft really, as we both knew where we wanted to go. The Salar De Uyuni.
Nearly 2 years ago we visited it in the wet season and were mesmerised by its beauty, surrealism, and tranquility.
Some people say you should not go back to a place as it will spoil memories. Well, those people are wrong.But the wet season was now just starting; if heavy rains fall on the mountains Lago Poopo overflows and fills the Salar. We could take the chance and see if it was still dry. But that depended on the road.
Back then, February 2011, the road between Potosi and Uyuni still had 60 kms of ripio, sand and mud (mainly on the steep hilly bits), neither of us fancied riding that 2 up.
But Bolivia has a great governmental road website, and there was an announcement on it that the fully tarmaced road had been inaugurated in August 2012.
How things have changed between then and now.
Back then, while riding the rough bits, Jean saw very little of the mountains and gorges that lined the route between the two towns.
Now she could sit behind me and soak it all in. And I could enjoy some great riding. The road was so good I wanted to go home and get my XJR1300.
Back then we rode through a small gorge below the road works.
Now we rode over it in a few seconds; the small lush gorge is bypassed and unseen by people.
Back then we had to ride across a sandy plain, with llama crossing signs.
Now it is all tarmac. But they have a fresh sign.
Back then we rode 22kms up the mountainside through mud.
Now Jean has nothing but praise for the road builders.
Back then the Salar was wet.
Now it is dry.
And I still can't get Jean to line up with the mountains properly.
Back then we took a 1 day tour, 7 people crammed in a Land Cruiser.
Now we took a 3 day tour, 6 people crammed in a Land Cruiser. We shared it with an Italian who spoke more Spanish than English and 3 Bolivians. So, along with the driver/guide/chef we had to bring our poor Spanish forward.
We stayed in a Salt Hotel, visited lagoons, geysers, rock formations and mountains.
Sometimes it is worth going back, and this time it definitely was.
- Bolivian Pictures
http://tinyurl.com/samii-bol