Here Be Elephants*
Country
“With an unusual water ecosystem that gives life to rich and rare wildlife, birds and culture, the Four Rivers Route is named after the river systems that flow through the Zambezi and Kavango regions, namely the Zambezi, Okavango, Kwando and Chobe Rivers. The ecosystem created by the rivers is one of southern Africa’s best-kept secrets and is home to over 430 bird species, free-roaming wildlife and numerous culturally rich villages. This route stretches along the Zambezi Region, formerly the Caprivi Strip, through to the Victoria Waterfalls.”
As you travel the Four Rivers Route, you pass through the Bwabwata National Park which is an important migration route from Botswana to Angola for African Elephant and other game species. We were warned a number of times to watch out for elephants near the road and that the road would be heavily potholed…
We seemed to have timed our travels along this northern Namibian area perfectly as road maintenance crews had recently been busy patching all the potholes. After Leaving Leon’s camp, the numerous signs said we needed to watch out for elephants, jackals and warthogs! We both diligently watched left and right, front and back, and then we saw them! A huge herd of elephants close enough to the road for us and fellow travelers to stop and marvel, but not close enough that we needed to divert. Gosh, we needed someone to pinch us at this point!
A great ride along the Caprivi Strip soon became a distant memory when we reached our evening destination. It was the first time we hadn’t pre-booked anything and after calling into several places, we decided on one that was to be the worst accommodation for the most amount of money in our travels so far. We were glad to eventually depart Katima Mulilo and head for the Namibia / Botswana border.
Exiting Namibia was extremely easy, efficient and friendly. A quick stamp at Immigration, then the Customs lady knew exactly what to do with the Carnet (our import/export passport for the Guzzi), and we were through. We crossed the green and picturesque Ngombo Bridge, stopped at the top of the hill and went into the teensy Botswana border crossing office. Expecting I may need to run my Carnet 101 course again as I had done getting into Namibia, it was a pleasant surprise when the Customs lady knew exactly what to do, instigated a pleasant conversation, and “did the needful” with her stamp. Back on the Guzzi and we were suddenly in Botswana!
It wasn’t far to Kasane, the gateway to the Chobe National Park. Lindy, the Botswanian guest house receptionist couldn’t do enough to help us settle in and offered any level of local knowledge when we were ready. A very good start!
* "Here be dragons" - dangerous or unexplored territories, in imitation of a medieval practice of putting illustrations of dragons, sea-monsters and other mythological creatures on uncharted areas of maps.
Comments
Thanks Grant! The whole northern Namibia, Botswana, Victoria Falls region is fabulous. Loving our time exploring around here. You went through such a long time ago, I'm not surprised to hear about the roads. The Guzzi is a bit of a beast to be spending too long on corrugations, potholes and sand...
Intereesting to read that there are / were many potholes! When we went through the Caprivi Strip in 1997, it was terrible corrugated dirt and sand washes, and they were starting work to pave it. So the work didn't last all that long, but at least they're maintaining it - good to hear!
Keep up with the story, great stuff and photos!