Kimberley to Kimberley
Country
There’s this little town on the north coast of Western Australia, called Broome. Broome is the pearling capital of Australia and is in a region known as the Kimberley. Broome’s history is a collection of colourful and often violent tales, and one can only imagine what it may have been like during the fevered and heady days of wealth, pearling masters and indigenous slaving; all in the search for those creamy white jewels.
In the late 1800s, Australia was connected overseas by submarine telegraphic cable. Frequent breaks in cables, as a result of underwater volcanic activity, meant that Broome was ultimately chosen as an alternative centre for communication. In 1879, the Broome Cable House was erected and used as a cable station until 1914.
I spent 12 wonderful years in Broome and lived with the tale that the current Broome Court House building, previously the Broome Cable House, was originally destined for delivery to Kimberley in South Africa, rather than Kimberley in Western Australia. With lack of official documentation, this apparently has never been proven.
Nevertheless, from “Kimberley to Kimberley” has a nice ring, so Dale and I ventured to the town that immediately evokes images of diamonds, wealth and the world-famous man-made Big Hole. Kimberley, thanks to the fevered diamond rush of the 1870s, like Broome, has an interesting past with many hopefuls rushing to the town with the dream of making their fortunes.
When travelling to a place, we endeavour to watch a movie specific to the place or region. Before heading to Kimberley, we re-watched Blood Diamond starring Leonardo di Caprio. When first released, I remember thinking Leo has finally grown up and he looked quite handsome albeit very short, but I digress… It was interesting to be reminded of the wheeling, dealing and corruption that would have gone on in those early diamond mining days.
Unbeknownst to us, we arrived the evening before the town was due to experience strikes and street protests mainly brought about by increased electricity charges. We quickly squeezed in a tour of the Big Hole, a huge crater dug almost entirely with picks and shovels in an effort to reach the precious stones. Then heeded advice to stay indoors the following day. The protests in part, were unfortunately violent with rubber bullets being shot and the odd car burning, so we took advantage of some, not often found, good quality wifi and remained indoors. The weather was freezing and it had hailed overnight. They must all have been having a Sunday morning sleep in, and the sun shine bright as we made our escape.
Our friend Anika in Hermanus send through a message saying their town had also been under riotous siege, and again the situation had been serious. Sadly it seems, South Africa is ranked as one of the most unequal societies on the planet. Political apartheid ended 24 years ago yet high levels of unemployment, poverty and gang-related crime demonstrate that economic apartheid remains firmly entrenched. It would be hoped that with the next educated generation, things will ultimately change.
Next up, our first border crossing…