We knew it was time to leave Cape Town when hail fell during an early morning walk.  That was enough winter for us; time to go!  Plus our 90 day visas were nearly up. Rain and storms stopped us from leaving when planned, so when a window of clear sky presented, we mounted the Guzzi and rode off towards snow-capped mountains on our way to the Whale Coast.  

Our first stop was Hermanus to do some Whale Watching.  We hit the coastal road from Gordons Bay, around Rooi Els, Pringle and Bettys Bays, in mid-afternoon, before arriving at our Airbnb in Hermanus.  The afternoon light was just right for coastal cruising and the stretch between Gordons Bay and Rooi Els, most particularly, is now a memory etched in our minds forever.  It was nothing short of magical!  Like so many roads around Cape Town, the winding tar with just the right amount of camber, which skirt the coast, and when ridden in the right light, solidify South Africa as a riding/motoring Mecca.  

“Hermanus with its whales, champagne air, fynbos-covered mountains, lush vineyards and pristine beaches is not only at the centre of the Cape Whale Coast, but it is also home to the South African abalone.” Quote from a tourism brochure.

We jumped on a boat with high hopes of seeing Southern Right Whales and Humpback Whales which frequent this coast between June and December.  We found whales with the help of the experienced guide and his off-sider’s drone, but none of the whales were in the mood to breach or do any aerial acrobatics.  They were certainly around in numbers and we were told it was breeding season.  It would have been nice to have seen more of them!

We caught up with an ex Doha friend of mine, Anika and met her hubby Casper.  South Africans who have just retired and moved back home.  They took us to this wonderful seafood restaurant overlooking the ocean where we had just been looking for whales.  The seafood meal was fabulous, the wine delicious and the company enlightening and fun.

Growing up, our family snorkelled for fresh abalone in the waters off Perth.  Dad always prepared the molluscs, cooked and served them straight off the BBQ.  They were so delicious!  My vegetarian husband, winces at the thought, but I’m afraid nothing can ever change family memories.  This popular Asian delicacy has unfortunately become endangered due to over-harvesting world-wide but in Hermanus, abalone farming is presenting a sustainable solution.  I took a tour to see how it is all managed and was suitably impressed.  The waters off Hermanus are some of the cleanest in the world and hygiene is a priority at the farm.  Visitors can view abalone up to two years of age, but after that, they are hidden behind high security until they reach full maturity around 6-7 years.  All abalone is exported in cans and I was privy to a taste test.  When does canned ever beat fresh?  Never!  Asians, particularly the Chinese, pay a premium for canned or dried abalone, but I’m the lucky one having always eaten them fresh following a great dive.

Next stop was Cape Agulhas, the geographic southern tip of Africa.  Our Airbnb provided us with warm and comfortable digs from where we could walk to the local pub for a seafood meal, then next morning ride to The Tip.  It was freezing, wild and treacherous, but the ocean winds were fresh and clean and reminded us we were alive!  We were at the beginning of the dividing line between the Atlantic and Indian Oceans.

Our mate Kirstin and her sister were due to run the Knysna Oyster Festival half-marathon, so we all met up at their folk’s farm for a few days.  The weather was cold, clear with no rain, and we really enjoyed our time with all the farm animals, Kirstin and her family.  The Harkerville Saturday Markets was a colourful, lively place to enjoy a flat white coffee and a wander to check out all the local handicrafts.  Travelling on a motorcycle has been such a test of reserve when it comes to buying crafts to take home.  I bought a beaded zebra to attach to my keyring – THAT was about as much space as I could take up on the bike!

The Garden Route deserves so much more time to explore than we allowed, and who knows, we could very well return!

Our route then took us directly north.  Richard – we got to experience the stunning Meiringspoot Pass!!  This Pass, instead of going over, cuts through the Swartberg mountain range to the Karoo.  With little geological knowledge to say whether it is the same rock or not, for me, it was reminiscent of the twisted, turbulent and swirling strata of the ranges in the Pilbara region of Western Australia.  25kms of tarred twists and turns, towering cliffs either side, and the sun overhead casting orange light, made for a thoroughly enjoyable ride.  Destination - De Rust, a Route 62 little gem of a town where movie producers still linger and if you blink, it would be missed.  We have been staying in Airbnb’s and have been very impressed.  Hosts seem to have thought of everything, right down to flannelette sheets for the cold, filtered coffee, chocolates and even warming sherry or port for after we have unpacked the bike!

Next stop Kimberley…