Hiya folks – here we are again for the final instalment of the 7 week journey .Last blog we were at Erdine, Turkey and had been forced to change the route home due to the Greek situation. ---- Well, we knew that it wasn’t the ideal way to get home at this time of year ---- Turkey, Bulgaria, Serbia, Croatia, Slovenia, Austria, Germany, France and home. ---- But we had to go for it – little realising just how hard it would be. Here’s a synopsis of the trip -----

Driving into a hotel courtyard

And the parade they put on for us -- in the howling wind

Sun 16 Oct and we left Erdine, Turkey for Sofia in Bulgaria ( 210 miles)in 9 degrees and the forecast of snow – plus just having only bread and jam for breakfast – not good. We were 13 K from the border and got through quickly – nothing was said about the speeding fine – so we didn’t say anything either.

I, very carefully, got rid of all the coin liras before crossing to Bulgaria and went to the exchange to get some Bulgarian Lev -- didn’t check it till the first stop where we had coffee and she had given me 5 Euro of coins in Turkish lira ! ---- Needless to say I wasn’t too happy about that – luckily we just about had enough Euros to pay for the coffee! (After digging deep into my handbag) ----- Anyone going to Turkey and want some change?

Up into the mountains and it went down to 2 degrees but stayed dry, thank goodness. Of course – on all the temperatures I state you have to add on the’ wind chill’ factor.

We managed to get to Sofia at 2.30 pm – and by then Colin, especially, was very cold – I wasn’t as bad as I have heated jacket and gloves but still felt cold. Not wanting to move your head or else you get a draft down your neck- no photos taken, of course and barely seeing the scenery. My eyes seem to be glued to the tarmac and every mile is one nearer home.

Colin passed 2 airports and I was willing him to pull in and freight the bike back home – or contact James Cargo for a lift! Not a good day. We are very ‘down’- I wrote in the journal –‘ I could have cried today, cold, fed up and want to be home NOW ‘. Colin maintained that there was a certain beauty to seeing snow topped mountains shrouded in thick fog - hmm, I think not!

The motel was lovely and warm; the girl spoke good English and said that this was unusually cold for this time of year ---- a sign of what was to come for the next 9 days.
Bitterly cold at 6.30 pm and Colin went into the weather for Switzerland – and its warmer there than here! Apparently the weather is meant to be getting better – but do we trust the forecast? — I think not! It started to snow at 7 pm—so what is tomorrow going to bring?

Mon 17 Oct and on to Markovac in Serbia - 210 miles. 2 degrees on leaving and up in the mountains went down to minus 7 ---- and I barely felt the heated jacket. We were not impressed at all but thanked our lucky stars that it wasn’t snowing. We were 70 K from the border and passed through quickly. When the young lad checked the passport- he looked at Colin and said: ‘you are an old man to be doing this’ ---- didn’t do Colin’s moral a whole lot of good!

We gained an hour here. It started to warm up a bit and when it got to 9 degrees we cheered. – Colin was extremely cold and has ended up wearing one of my thick jumpers for warmth – that’s made it a bit better but still not good. We stopped at Nis for a warm meal break and he got off the bike and was literally shaking and his fingers were blue – and that was with the heated grips on.

This situation is not good at all – but we have to keep going to avoid the snow that is forecast for each day. Yesterday, after we left Sofia they had 1 foot of snow in a very short space of time. We did more miles today than Colin had reckoned and we hope to be in Croatia tomorrow.

This is not a trip to be experienced again and one that we’re not likely to forget --- let’s just hope that we get a few days of sun. The motel tonight is barely warm and no heat at all in the bathroom ---- no shower tonight – we’ll stink instead!

Tues 18 Oct and on to Zagreb in Croatia (326 miles) left in minus 2 degrees and when Colin had to top up the oil ---- it wouldn’t pour out. He had to cut the top off and it eventually came out ‘glug’ glug’. The engine was very slow to start but did after a few goes. Fog everywhere as well, so that didn’t help!

The border crossing to Croatia was a 20 minute wait in the cold due to a long queue. Later it warmed up nicely 8 – 11 degrees. 4 lots of petrol today - it was a long day but ever onwards and upwards. 3 countries in 3 days. I’ve now got to the stage of really having to think what country I am in! But we are all out to get home and beat this weather system that threatens snow each night.

Had an argument with one of the guys at the toll – we had one 10 euro note left but it was ripped and he didn’t want to take it ---- Colin did the classic shrug of his shoulders and said ‘ it’s either that or nothing’ --- he took it !

The best thing about today was finding a Chinese restaurant for dinner – first good meal for ages. A good days run and I feel better in myself today – mentally as well as physically.

Wed 19 Oct 2011 and on to Salzburg in Austria - 278 miles. Left at 9 am and no frost today – so that’s a good sign after yesterday. Onto the motorway and through to Slovenia which we were transiting. We thought motorbikes were exempt from the vignette --- do not assume – we got a fine of 150 Euro that had to be paid there and then.

Flashed passports at the Slovenian border and we were through to Austria—another country done! Weather was better today – 10 degrees. We got held up for 1 hour due to tunnel repairs so had a quick picnic from the top box. All motorways today and the tarmac just flashes before your eyes.

Thurs 20 Oct and on to Ulm in Germany – 198 miles. Cold again at 3 degrees, raining, heavy mist and cloud covering the snow capped mountains – great. Big discussion whether we should leave or not --- decision’ yes, go for it’. Europe is expensive – 3.60 Euro for a cappuccino and 70 cents to use the loo at the motorway services. Autumn colours starting to appear.

The days are a complete haze now, the tarmac is the same but every mile is 1 nearer home. We have got to the stage of: ‘its Tuesday- must be Serbia, its Thursday, must be Germany’! Still, each day, snow is forecast for the next day – let’s hope that we can out- run it still. We are tired and counting the days to home now.

Fri 21 Oct and on to Metz in France– 236 miles. Left in freezing fog and temperature dropped to minus 5 with visibility of 50 yards – miserable drive till noon. Colin had icing problem with his visor and we were pleased to see the hotel at 3pm.

Sat 22 Oct and on to St Omer in France (293 miles) – and then a hop under the channel and we’ll be home!

A long day in fog – just travelling now to cover the miles. Arrived at 4 pm and at 5 pm we were in the bar and who should walk in but friends of ours, Harold and Sue on their 850 roadster. What a fantastic surprise- we had no idea of what they had planned. Harold said:’ we’ve come to take you home’ and it was music to our ears.

It was such a great boost to our morale and next day we did indeed follow his tail light all the way home to Calne. Got stung for the tunnel fare (half term and just turned up) –‘that’ll be 114 euro, Sir’. Positively balmy when we got to England – 18 degrees in the afternoon – bliss and our watches back one hour.

The 2 cats were present and correct when we got back --- they have no idea how much they spurred us on! – Sad isn’t it?

Total miles; 7845

So, what with borders closed in Kosovo and Turkey, strikes in Greece, an earthquake in Turkey (50 K from where we were) and early snow, I don’t think that any country will allow us back!

Don’t think there will be any more long adventurous trips for us---- Europe and Gibraltar, perhaps Canada, yes. – But the next big trip will be like a snail ---- in a camper van with our home on our back in the warmth and comfort of Australia. Colin has had enough of worrying over hotels that, this time, seemed to be harder to find in certain countries.

Colin has had 11 days of driving and covered 2833 miles without a break – he was very tired when we got home but is getting better now. All thanks to him for a safe drive under extreme circumstances – it was him that got us home safely.

The bike was faultless and is need of a big service and deep clean! The back tyre that Colin thought he would have to change in Europe actually saw us home and all credit to Dunlop – the tyres have been brilliant under very difficult terrains.

( PS. He started the service on the bike yesterday – after a power wash and there was a wasp’s nest starting under the instrument panel!)

So there you have it folks – warts and all. Thanks so much for all your support and concern --- safe and happy driving to all and ------ keep those tyres on the tarmac.
Cheers for now, Colin and Dee

The motel in Bulgaria where it was minus 2 next morning

This is what a bored pussycat does in 'her' workshop!- Tears up a roll of kitchen paper !!