Hi everyone!

I left Lobito on Monday morning, 16 July 2023. I could have left earlier but my laundry hadn’t dried overnight and so I waited it out, said goodbye to Gaucho who was driving up to Luanda and was hosted for breakfast by Dillito at his house. Once the sun came out, my clothes were dry, and I was ready to rock’n’roll. Dillito sent me off with a yellow 50-year anniversary Yamaha shirt (see subsequent pictures) and a screwdriver head with which to adjust my carburetor. Diddy was running fine, but the air/gas mix is definitely not perfect. The engine is either not idling without dying on me (not enough gas) or reving too high (too much gas). I was used to Diddy not starting without a bit of help from the throttle three years ago – for the racer and bike builder Dillito, I felt his pride was touched – that I should leave his garage with such a carburetor. I suppose if we hadn’t had such a fun weekend, we would have had time for a bit of motorcycle tuning. Once on the road I kind of regretted not taking advantage of all the motorbike expertise in Lobito though. I left town at about noon and headed straight down South for the direct route to Namibe (the town in Angola, not the country). The cautious people had told me not to go this way but instead to Lubango directly because the route to Namibe is very remote and lined with a (supposedly) bad roads. Others said it would be fine. I decided to check out the more remote route, mostly because I felt like a bit of tougher Africa after all the pampering, I’ve been getting from the amigos da picada :). It turned out to be the right choice. I enjoyed some great “offroad” riding - really it was more like good gravel – nothing like Westafrica.

I wild-camped on the cliffs before a place called Praia Binga. It felt nice to be out in nature after the cities of Sumbe and Lobito. I did my wild camp routine: setup tent, yoga under the stars and cleaning and oiling the chain. I also checked my oil and was all out! - after roughly 600 km. At 400 km I had still been all good. This made me slightly nervous. I added almost a whole liter and was glad I had checked. Subsequent calls with tio Georges suggest that this might be due to a change from mineral to synthetic oil and the engine not being used to the synthetic blend. I’m not sure what oil I fed Diddy with three years ago honestly, but I’m pretty sure I had tried both types plus semi-synthetic (sometimes whatever was available) and never had a problem. The mystery remains.

I was on the road early the next day and was glad to find a small foodstall selling crackers after another 20 km of gravel road. Notice my wildcamping routine does not include dinner. After hauling a cooker with me on my last trip and only having used it when meeting other travelers, I decided to spare the load this time. I figured I’d get some bananas for dinner, but in all the excitement somehow missed them. After about 40 km of tarmack I reached the Pumangol gas station of Lucira. 

I had a nice ride along the coast, knowing it would be a while until I saw the sea again after Namibe. I reached the town at around 5 pm, checked into the residencial azul and went to look for some fish for dinner. Namibe is a quiet little town although it houses a port and some non-vernacular colonial buildings (Jorgos was meinsch Du als Architekt da dezue?). I was happy to have a room to myself and watched the fellowship of the ring on my harddrive :).

On Wendesday, 19 July 2023 I had the complimentary breakfast, added data to my sim card, checked out the Pumangol gas station in town (they all sell havaianas – this is havaianas country :) and hit the road for Lubango. It was a nice ride inland with the mountains looming in the distance and ultimately climbing a windy road for a great view back at the flatlands below. 

On the other side the city of Lubango stretched out before me. It reminded me a bit of La Paz in the Andes with the higher altitude and drier climate. I checked into the Novo Hotel (14500 Kwanza a night) because Prashante whom I had met in Sumbe was staying here. I had a walk around town, checked prices for tools (mine from three years ago are missing) – super expensive, got 2l of spare engine oil, had the world’s smallest falafel and tried to make up my mind whether or not to have a mechanic check my bike. Diddy hadn’t lost any oil in the 400km from Praia Binga. The rattling sound of the engine continues, however. Also, I felt like I was losing a bit of power at higher speeds (higher speeds meaning 80 kmh). For me all signs pointing towards a used piston. I had a second dinner with Prashante (pizza :) and we returned to the hotel to get an African paint job on Diddy (cf. fotos below when the function is working - still not the case, sorry about that). 

Ray told me there was more emotion in my writing, when there was motorcycle trouble – so here goes: On Thursday, 20 July 2023 I headed over to Luis’ from the amigos da picada to have my bike checked. Luis is a car mechanic; his friend Luis is a motorbike mechanic and helped me out. Both Luis are great people (muito obrigado Luis y Luis! :). We had to open up the engine to check the valve clearance re the rattling sound - it was fine. Luis caught my clutch cable fraying (I am very glad about this find) and tightened my rear brake, chain and handlebars that were a bit loose (ups). Regarding a potential piston replacement, Luis called his piston expert friend Luis (just kidding – I don’t know his name) who showed up at 3pm. They agreed that the piston probably had to be replaced. It was however too late in the day for this, and Diddy was running reliably. I wanted to get going to Namibia and decided to keep monitoring the oil and possibly suss out a mechanic in Windhuk or Swakopmund. Luis the car mechanic gifted me 4 spaner keys and a screwdriver, so that I can now change a tyre on the road :) (muito obrigado Luis!). Luis the motorbike mechanic took heavy convincing to accept any money for his day’s work. I’m so blessed to meet such good people! Prashante and I had Pungo fish at a Portuguese restaurant (good but not as good as the one at Edu’s house in Luanda) and then went to a karaoke bar :). The doorman was a kid called Eric with an intelligent face reading Kirkegaard behind a desk. He asked me if I would tutor him for English. I had to tell him I was only passing through. My privilege was blatant. 

On Friday, 21 July 2023 Prashante and I had a last breakfast together. Prashante travels around Angola selling toilet paper to retailers for Suave. He is in Angola for 5 years in total away from his wife and son in Bombay, doing what it takes to support his family. Much respect Prashante – I will miss the good vibes! I headed out at around 10am (after a stop at the Pumangol to see the Havaianas selection) with no destination in mind.

I was getting along well though and thought at that rate I would reach the Namibian border by the evening. At Xangongo however I had to refuel (Diddy’s tank is good for some 200+ km) and the line for petrol was very long. After an hour of waiting in line, the guy on duty called me up to the front and it was generally agreed that the tourist had waited in line long enough. Once again, my privilege was out in the open for all to see. I accepted though and at 5 pm decided to call it a day. I checked into a little bed and breakfast and had the honor of receiving a police officer at my door (inside the hotel!) after my shower, another after dinner and the chief the next morning for breakfast. Apparently Xangongo doesn’t get a lot of tourists. They were all very friendly. Before my leaving we had a photoshoot, prayer and someone even accompanied me out of town on a motorbike :). I made it to the border, cashed in my last Kwanzas for Havaianas and fuel at the Pumangol and crossed into Namibia. I think this was the easiest border crossing so far in Africa. I was slightly nervous about my papers and Diddy having overstayed his 30-day temporary import for more than three years. Thanks to Senhor Julio and tio Georges however, everything was fine. Leaving Angola I thought to myself I would like to be back one day to the country of Pungo fish, Havaianas and most importantly all the outstanding people I met from the amigos da picada. Eu voltarei, muito obrigado! After the Namibian border I rode for 50 km to Ondangwa without stopping as I had read about tourists getting robbed in the border area. I knew Namibia is one of the nicer countries in Africa – but man, to see is to believe. You instantly feel the change and increase in level of development. The roads are good, there are modern shops everywhere and the gas station food is tasty. Also, suddenly there are tourists in 4x4s roadtripping the land. This is definitely a change to the rest of what I’ve seen in Africa so far. I set upt my tent in Okashana at a government seed plantation for 130 Namibian dolars a night. Rosa was very nice in helping me with organizing a game drive in Etosha the next day with the nearby King Nahale gate Godwana Lodge. The park doesn’t allow motorbikes so I’m dependent on tours to see the animals. I now understand the no bike rule is because of lions – thank you Etosha for keeping me safe from myself :). 

Yesterday, Sunday 23 July 2023 I tried to find some more tools in town (Omuthiya) and get a cell phone. Most of the stores were closed though and all I managed was to source some porridge and beef at a local food stall. I would have been the attraction for the locals if it hadn’t been for this Namibian guy with a Namibian flag on his backpack and walking sticks also ordering the beef. His name is Elago and he is walking across Namibia to raise awareness and funds for his non-profit the delivery room foundation (https://deliveryroom.org) for mental health. We exchanged stories and prayers and were inspired. What an amazing guy! In the afternoon I rocked up to the Godwana lodge and felt a bit like when I got my visa at Lagos airport: in my dirty motorbike clothes amongst all the wellclad westerners :). We had some great game viewing at the Godwana hide out and saw about 50 elefants, 40 giraffes, zebras, wildebeest, oryx, springbock, kudu and probably some other stuff as well, while sipping gin tonics (all for 870 NAD – totally worth it). I now understand why Namibia is so popular. What a wonderful experience. 

This morning, Monday 24 July 2023 I went back on the Godwana hide out tour to try and see some lions – no luck though.

I then rode 120 km around the park to the next gate (von Lundqvist) and am writing this blog entry from the comforts of the Onguma Campsite. This is glamping at its finest. After two days without showers I’m enjoying hot water, fast wifi, oryx steak and the company of a bunch of western tourists all with a view of a waterhole where a giraffe, ca. 10 zebras, 2 oryxs and ca. 7 kudus showed up for dinner :). 

I feel like I’m on holiday in Africa – here’s to the road ahead!