Bom dia todos!

I left Luanda on Wednesday, 12 July 2023. In the morning I went over to Tio Georges’ house where I was keeping the bike as there was no gated space at Angelina’s. I said goodbye to Tio Georges and Enzo and just as I wanted to leave the parking lot Diddy Kong stopped running mid ride. I had flashbacks to my CDI-problems with King Kong in Senegal and had to laugh out loud at the timing. Right when I thought I could get on the way. After a couple of tries with Tio Georges, Diddy was starting again. Not exactly inspiring confidence, but I decided to put mind over matter and get on the road as Diddy seemed to be riding pretty ok the day before and I figured the bike had to run a bit after three years of sitting around. My goal was Cabo Ledo, only 120 km away and I’m in amigos da picada country – so nothing too bad could happen to me :). Diddy ran well all the way.

I rocked up to Quieroz Point, an Eco lodge in Cabo Ledo owned by Nelson from the MC. He wasn’t there, but I got to pitch my tent for free right by the seaside. Tiago had told me about a famous long wave here and I set out in the late afternoon to suss it out. I did some nice riding in the backroads of the hill country at sunset but didn’t have enough time to actually find the beach. Back at Nelson’s I got the Linguino for dinner (good but a lot of bones), did some motorcycle maintenance and you won’t believe: Yoga :). I slept well in my tent (it’s good to be back) and on my new mat and sleeping bag (thank you colleagues!). I was up early; Diddy started fine despite the humid seaside air and the colder morning temperatures, and I made my way to the surf. There was no one in the parking lot and I didn’t see any impressive waves. I almost left but met a kid heading into the water – he showed me where the point is. The wave is so long, you have to walk out and around a point. When the tides are right, the waves carries all the way back to the beach. I got a board and wetsuit for 7000 Kwanza and had a really good time in the water – nice and mellow wave and no wind :). Definitely worth a recollective surf trip someday! I then managed the 200km to Sumbe with no trouble and checked in to a small hotel right across the beach. What a tranquil town with an amazing sunset. In the evening I met up with Manuel from the Amigos da Picada in Sumbe and we had a pleasant evening with Prashant from Bombay working in Angola and the guys from the hotel.

Friday morning, 14 July 2023 I headed South and enjoyed some great riding on the good Angolan roads through the hill country. I really like the landscapes here and the traffic isn’t too hectic. Occasionally, there are some bad overtaking maneuvers people feel like they need to perform - much better than Westafrica though. I finished the 200 km to Lobito with no problems and without having a particular place in mind, made my way to the beach. At the tasquina ambruinosa I was welcomed by the owner Claudia with fresh maracuja juice. Claudia outed herself as a rider and a member of an MC called Nomadas - I really feel like this is biker country. She saw the Amigos da Picada sticker on Diddy Kong and said she was going to call the president of the Nomadas to oversticker my bike :). She offered me a place to stay, and I wasn’t sure what biker protocol is between the clubs. I had contacted Joao the coordinator of the Amigos da Picada in Lobito beforehand, and he arrived at the bar a bit later. Turns out, the amigos da picada and nomadas are friends of course – and everyone had sunset beers together. I ended up staying with Gaucho (a forester from Uruguay with an Africa Twin) from the Amigos da Picada at his bachelor pad. He’s been an incredible host this whole weekend (Muito Obrigado Gaucho!). We had a barbeque on Friday night and went out to a rooftop bar after that. We met a group of Southafricans offroading in Angola so the rooftop became a biker bar. 

On Saturday, 15 July 2023, I wanted to shave my head warrior style like Marco and I had done in Congo R.O.C. three years ago. Half way through, Gaucho's razor gave out and we had to make an emergency trip to the hairdresser's. I'm now properly ready for Africa though. Later Gaucho, Dilito and I drove out to the beach in Benguela to Dilito’s brother’s house. Seca invited us to BBQ and we had a really good time (Muito Obrigado Seca!). Dilito and Seca are motocross racers and the hills behind the house looked like very nice motocross terrain. Dilito is actually the champion of a race they have here in Lobito around the peninsula (ilha) in the city center. These guys can really ride – not exactly the same thing as I’m doing here :).

It’s Sunday, 16 July 2023 and I’m writing this on Gaucho’s terrace with a view of the ocean. I’ll head South towards Namibe tomorrow. The way there is supposed to be remote and wild – I’m looking forward!

Peace and love

Chris